spyderco vg10 vs cold steel aus 8

Between the VG10 in my Endura and the AUS8 in my Cold Steel AK47 I could tell a slight difference in pure edge retention. For context, I work in a shipping department and cut cardboard, packing tape, and zip ties all day. The VG10 definitely maintains a shaving edge longer and a working edge a little longer. That's what I experienced at least, there are probably other experiences and more variables that I'm not aware of and your results may vary.
 
EBHM4 said:
Between the VG10 in my Endura and the AUS8 in my Cold Steel AK47 I could tell a slight difference in pure edge retention. For context, I work in a shipping department and cut cardboard, packing tape, and zip ties all day. The VG10 definitely maintains a shaving edge longer and a working edge a little longer. That's what I experienced at least, there are probably other experiences and more variables that I'm not aware of and your results may vary.
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I wonder if that is because the delica has a thinner edge the ak-47 is a beefy knife I dont know I don't have an ak-47?
 
I use my knives and dont see much difference in the two. Both are easy to sharpen and I like that. I am a little more careful with my VG 10 to avoid chips. If i know Im going to cut something tough I will use AUS 8 over the VG 10 if I have the option.
 
I can tell a difference easier between my aus 8 Al Mar vs. a CRKT with Aus 8. Likewise not all knives with VG10 perform equally. A new Chinese made Camillus knife in VG10 performs nothing like the VG10 I've been using for years in my Spydercos.

I recall older Japan made Aus 8 Cold steel Voyagers and was always impressed with the steel. They came breathtakingly sharp and stayed that way. I never started out feeling like Aus 8 , or even aus 6 were inferior steels. Lower carbon content than some others and different, but not inferior unless wear resistance is the only judge of quality. IMO, 440C isn't my favorite steel but it can do pretty well. It can also suck badly if not done well. I've seen good and bad in all these steels. 154cm, ats34, and a few others I've had the same experiences with. 420HC is so different in a Buck knife from most any other manufacturer that I am amazed it's the same steel.

I've never had a bad knife in CPM 154, CPM S30, etc. That is once the first sharpening removes the surface steel. This seems to be more noticeable to me with the powder steels for whatever reason. When I first used the Z wear SNG it was mediocre. After two sharpening s it performs more like I'm used to with CPM M4 at rc 64. A very noticeable difference.
 
I just tested Cold Steels AUS-8A and Spyderco's VG-10 with a coarse edge on 5/8" Manila rope.

That's a Stretch vs a Recon 1, both have great reps for good HT in those models.

BOTH knives made 160 Cuts until I reached 20 LBS of down force so they tied.

Some numbers for comparison.

S90V - 460
M390 - 380
S30V - 300
CTS-XHP - 240
Dozier D2 - 220
VG-10 - 160
AUS-8A - 160
 
Ankerson--thanks for your tests; bc of your vids I picked-up a CS recon 1 (mini/ 3" blade due to local laws) and have been pretty pleased with it for general edc. If it was not for your testing of the recon 1, I likely would have not bought it--and I'm glad I did. As a professional researcher, I find your methods sound and pretty compelling.
 
Aias said:
Ankerson--thanks for your tests; bc of your vids I picked-up a CS recon 1 (mini/ 3" blade due to local laws) and have been pretty pleased with it for general edc. If it was not for your testing of the recon 1, I likely would have not bought it--and I'm glad I did. As a professional researcher, I find your methods sound and pretty compelling.
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The Recon 1 is a great knife, I have all the generations of that model. :D

That includes the 1st one made in Japan.

I did the coarse edge testing to give them both an equal shot and to see what the real differences might be, as it turned out there really wasn't one from my testing.

AUS-8A was more aggressive than VG-10 with the edge finish used in the testing, 400 grit Congress Silicone carbide.
 
Ankerson said:
The Recon 1 is a great knife, I have all the generations of that model. :D

That includes the 1st one made in Japan.

I did the coarse edge testing to give them both an equal shot and to see what the real differences might be, as it turned out there really wasn't one from my testing.

AUS-8A was more aggressive than VG-10 with the edge finish used in the testing, 400 grit Congress Silicone carbide.
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:thumbup: thanks again
 
Aias said:
:thumbup: thanks again
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YW. :)

This thread was interesting as where some of the comments.....

Having use both steels for a very long time, I really didn't see much of real difference between them from my uses over the years so I decided to do a shootout between the two just to see as the alloy content is very close in the two steels, too close to really make any kind of large difference in performance in edge retention.

So as it turned out they are VERY close in performance with the method and the knives used in the testing as I thought they would be based on the alloy content.
 
Ankerson, have you ever thought about coming up with some tests for fully serrated knives? It seems like it would be harder to get a standard of sharpening on them, and a standard of testing, compared to plain edge. so not sure how scientific it could really be, but I'm really interested. Namely in H1 versus steels like vg10 and s30v. You would probably have to go with all knives from one maker so that the serrations remain similar in style...

I've just heard so much talk about H1's work hardening properties, I really want to know how much of it is smoke on the water (I believe much of it is). Most people who talk about it seem like they are just rehashing what they have heard online. I don't doubt that the HRC could be higher at the serrations, and you see higher "wear resistance", but you also see greater "wear resistance" on knives like vg10 from plain to serrated simply because of how the serrations cut.

I just have a hard time believing its wear resistance goes from something like AUS6 in plain edge, to better than zdp189 with the addition of some serrations (Someone just told me that serrated H1 has more wear resistance than any steel spyderco has ever used....)

I think much of this stems from the fact that Sal once posted a long time ago something about serrated H1 testing as high as anything they ever tested. I do not believe he claimed it actually had the highest wear resistance, but people seem to be taking it that way. I think it was more to do with the limitations of their testing method.
 
thanks so much ankerson for the test I was beginning to feel bad that I couldn't tell the difference between the two steels while some people could in egde holding I know it shouldn't matter much but I feel alot better now.:thumbup:
 
I have not used my Syderco VG-10 beyond light EDC but I have beat Fallkniven's silly and have no problem at all with it.
I used a SRK a few times and it dulled very quickly and dented and rolled like crazy. I have not had that experience with Falkniven's VG-10.
I ended up giving the SRK to my eleven year old son who has handed it to me for sharpening looking like it has a serrated edge.
Maybe I just got a bad SRK or Falkniven's VG-10 is better than Syderco's but the difference between the two is night and day for me.

To be fair, with small folders and low impact edc, both steels may perform equally as well.
 
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Ankerson said:
A lot of it's likely perception and bias. ;)
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What I find even more odd is just how many steels people think are 440C equivalents when the steels they are comparing it to actually have more in common with much better grades. For instance i see many people who trash on N690co saying its a 440 equivalent but I dont see any 440C steels with cobalt and vanadium. Sure their isnt a huge amount of vanadium but there is a significant amount of cobalt.
 
Aus8 seems to rust quicker in my experience. Aus8 seems to be a touch softer (sharpens easily), and there is point of pride with vg10 blades (just feels like a step up). But, these statements aren't exactly groundbreaking. I prefer vg10, and it's not "all in my head". If Aus8 works for you..... Use it!

BTW, the cold steel vs the world thing was getting old when I had my first beer and fell off my dinosaur... lol
 
Let me preface this by saying that I like the way carbon steel cuts, especially 1095v/50100B. You do not have to force the knife to cut. VG10, for me, cuts like the carbon steel closely enough that I really like it. While AUS8A is a good steel (regardless of what some say), it simply does not do daily chores as well. As an example, I have had many knives in both steels. I would try and cut the plastic tape from a box with the AUS8 and have to force the knife through the tape before I could cut it open. I would usually simply put the knife away and pull out a carbon steel knife and finish the job. I have never had this experience with VG10. Rope cutting and etc. where the knife is forced into the material does not show real world cutting. Try getting a good, hard apple and see if your blade will go through it with little effort or not. VG10 and Carbon will do this well. Try opening a simple envelope and see if it tears through or cuts like a laser. I prefer the VG10 for most things over the AUS8.
 
DocT said:
Let me preface this by saying that I like the way carbon steel cuts, especially 1095v/50100B. You do not have to force the knife to cut. VG10, for me, cuts like the carbon steel closely enough that I really like it. While AUS8A is a good steel (regardless of what some say), it simply does not do daily chores as well. As an example, I have had many knives in both steels. I would try and cut the plastic tape from a box with the AUS8 and have to force the knife through the tape before I could cut it open. I would usually simply put the knife away and pull out a carbon steel knife and finish the job. I have never had this experience with VG10. Rope cutting and etc. where the knife is forced into the material does not show real world cutting. Try getting a good, hard apple and see if your blade will go through it with little effort or not. VG10 and Carbon will do this well. Try opening a simple envelope and see if it tears through or cuts like a laser. I prefer the VG10 for most things over the AUS8.
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That has more to do with edge and blade geometry, behind the edge thickness, sharpening, edge finish etc than the steels themselves. ;)

Manila rope is one of the hardest things to cut and is very hard on the edge so when a knife blade just glides right though it with very little effort in a draw cut that means things are working well.

Box tape is one of the easiest things to cut, I know because I cut a lot of it everyday at work opening boxes and it can be cut with a dull object like a pen or a nub on a safety cutter without much trouble.
 
My most recent CS purchase was a AK-47 and I can say I'm not real happy with the thinner hollow grind. It's about .01 behind the edge and I feel its too thin for the steel to be properly supported. That or I got one with a sub-par heat treatment because it doesn't hold a candle to my old AK or any of my VG-10 spydercos.... And after sharpening many different kitchen knives with VG-10 I realized (as suspected) production knives in VG-10 are about as hard as the clad metal on a San Mai VG-10 Tojiro.
 
knifenut1013 said:
My most recent CS purchase was a AK-47 and I can say I'm not real happy with the thinner hollow grind. It's about .01 behind the edge and I feel its too thin for the steel to be properly supported. That or I got one with a sub-par heat treatment because it doesn't hold a candle to my old AK or any of my VG-10 spydercos.... And after sharpening many different kitchen knives with VG-10 I realized (as suspected) production knives in VG-10 are about as hard as the clad metal on a San Mai VG-10 Tojiro.
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Never had one of those.

But yeah most of the VG-10 blades I have seen do seem to be pretty soft, likely for ease of sharpening and to reduce chipping problems in the kitchen knives.
 
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