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I actually de-assisted my Packrat, and then put the torision bar back in because that knife had no detent notch on the blade. I made a detent notch in the blade, but was off by a bit and the tip would slightly protrude before my notch was contacted by the detent ball. I deemed it unsafe and re-assisted it. That Packrat is the only speedsafe knife I have come across that was not de-assist ready. I also leave my Speed Bump assisted because I don't really carry it.
 
My favorite de-assisted knife is my ZT 350. It flips so smooth without the torsion bar.
 
I have a few Kershaw's that are still assisted only because there is no detent hole. I have de-assisted the 0350 as well, and it is slick, but the amazing ones are my Blurs. I have take the torsion bar out of both of them and they are so smooth it is beyond belief. I like them so much better now. I wish all manufactures would give you the option of removing the assist no matter the model. I can see not doing it for a budget line but there is no reason to not have a detent hole more expensive models.
 
I have a few Kershaw's that are still assisted only because there is no detent hole. I have de-assisted the 0350 as well, and it is slick, but the amazing ones are my Blurs. I have take the torsion bar out of both of them and they are so smooth it is beyond belief. I like them so much better now. I wish all manufactures would give you the option of removing the assist no matter the model. I can see not doing it for a budget line but there is no reason to not have a detent hole more expensive models.

Agreed the Blur's are nice without the torsion bar.
 
I don't understand why you would de-assist a knife besides possible legal reasons.Why not just buy a Spyderco or another manual knife designed to be non-assisted.I guess it is possible that you could really like the design or the function of a particular knife line, but what is the benefit of de-assisting?I have a few Blurs and one reason that I was gravitated to them is because they are assisted.Please help me understand the benefits of de-assisting my assisted knifes?Thank you for educating me and for your advise....
Best regards,
salmonkiller
 
For me, I de-assist because I don't think Speedsafe is very safe. Plus I like the feel of manual flippers better. I appreciate proper geometry and a nice action, not a spring to fling it out there regardless of design. Simplicity is also a factor, less is more and better.
 
It is just a matter of preference. I like being in control of the blade at all times. A good manual folder deploys just as fast as an A/O, and is easier to close also, no need to fight the mechanism to close it. There are times when deploying a blade slowly is best especially when your out on the town. Simplicity to me in this case is also best, less mechanisms to depend on for a chance to fail. I have really trimmed down my AO knives as I simply prefer manual. As much as I like the Packrat, my black one is on its way out. One of my favorite knives is a CF blur, I got three of them. The AO is executed very well and dont mind it on that knife but it does come with a detent so I deassisted the one I use. It is extremely smooth as a manual, seems like it is made to be this way and prefer it.
 
What do you all use to lube and preserve your knives?I just got back from my favorite local store and picked up a bottle of this stuff.Has anyone tried this stuff on their knifes?It's supposed to be food safe which is what I have been trying to find to use on my knives.I will give it a try and see if it works as claimed.....
[video=youtube;ZqQ_GEC6EKE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ZqQ_GEC6EKE[/video]
[video=youtube;XKvP6M1Xnxo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=XKvP6M1Xnxo[/video]
[video=youtube;tJUD5fPhdz4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=tJUD5fPhdz4[/video]
 
I usually run my knives dry (most of my knives are stainless) but when I'd do oil em up, I use what i think is called du pont or somthing.

For the most part i don't oil my knives unless there carbon steel or use Teflon washers, I find knives with Phosphorus bronze washers to do better dry.

Just my 0.02....
 
I just Frog lubed and heated with a blow dryer a 0560 with KVT ball bearings.Smells good and super smooth.I am a Hunter and saltwater fisherman so preservation is a must whether the knife is stainless, carbon, or tool steel.Preservation is a must if it is a knife I carry and use.I have historically used Tuf-Glide which works well for me except for the fact that it is not food safe and smells the same.I am going to give this stuff a shot and time will tell if it works for me...
 
I usually run my knives dry (most of my knives are stainless) but when I'd do oil em up, I use what i think is called du pont or somthing.

For the most part i don't oil my knives unless there carbon steel or use Teflon washers, I find knives with Phosphorus bronze washers to do better dry.

Just my 0.02....

Same here, I run my para 2 dry and it seems better with out than with any oil I have tried. I just ordered tuff glide and I'm gonna try that.
Though my ritter grip seems to prefer a little bit of oil though.

I've also only de-assisted one knife, my twitch II. I did it cause I found out I don't like assisted opening, needless to say it remains my only assisted knife. I have one auto and I don't like those either. My next step is an OTF I'm sure I'll enjoy that though :D
 
Same here, I run my para 2 dry and it seems better with out than with any oil I have tried. I just ordered tuff glide and I'm gonna try that.
Though my ritter grip seems to prefer a little bit of oil though.

I've also only de-assisted one knife, my twitch II. I did it cause I found out I don't like assisted opening, needless to say it remains my only assisted knife. I have one auto and I don't like those either. My next step is an OTF I'm sure I'll enjoy that though :D

All I know about the twitch ll is i can't put it back together:D it currently sits in a altoids tin in the back of my toolbox
All 23 pieces..........
 
Ok since this is an open talk . How many people have a Gayle Bradley and don't use it because they are affraid it will patina.
Love mine but I never used it or even carry it . I edc my knives and use them at work for cardboard straps ect but I also use them for my fruits that I take to work and some food prep at home because we all carry a knife with are PJ'S right . So when ever I need to cut from lemon to string hangin on my PJ's ill use it . I just won't use my Gayle Bradly because I hate the way a patina blade looks .

I will just say this the Gayle Bradley is an Awesome knife that I just don't use because the patina issue .
 
Ok since this is an open talk . How many people have a Gayle Bradley and don't use it because they are affraid it will patina.
Love mine but I never used it or even carry it . I edc my knives and use them at work for cardboard straps ect but I also use them for my fruits that I take to work and some food prep at home because we all carry a knife with are PJ'S right . So when ever I need to cut from lemon to string hangin on my PJ's ill use it . I just won't use my Gayle Bradly because I hate the way a patina blade looks .

I will just say this the Gayle Bradley is an Awesome knife that I just don't use because the patina issue .

I don't own the Gayle Bradly, but I have seen some really cool forced patinas.The coolest one I ever saw was done with curry and turned out kind of a really neat green color.Search forced patina on this board and do your research if you chose that path.I think if you use Gayle Bradley then it will eventually get a patina regardless(think Schrade).I personally try to focus on stainless and stainless will still oxidize and pit if not properly cared for.Some of my stainless knifes have pitted in spots just from body sweat.Because I do work and play outside in the elements I have tried to watch my users very closely and always lube.I also live close to the Pacific Ocean. This is why I want a food safe lube. What good is a knife that's in my pocket if I can't cut up something that I want to eat with it without having to wash it first.I guess you could choose to not lube your blade , but for me I really want to make my knives last a lifetime and look handsome as long as possible..
 
Just got my R Nishijin. Beautiful knife. Very slim and nice to carry. It's very tough to open though. Takes a firm thumb flick with some wrist, most of my spyderco's deploy easier. Hopefully it will break in some. Does anyone one else have the same issue? This is my first lock back, I'm also thinking about the Caly 3.5 in CF.
 
Well I find my native (lockback) is very smooth but I still can't flick it open real fast ether...
 
Does anyone know whether or not the Super Blue lightweights (Delica, Endura and Stretch) will be a sprint or regular production?
 
@miltmaldo:

Naturally acquired patina looks cool imo. Sometimes when I'm doing food prep with a non-stainless I find myself using the blade more evenly because I want the patina to come out nice :D Also I've found that with Frog Lube paste (save the liquid for the pivots) the patina basically comes off. I thought I wouldn't like a patina-ed GB but it looked quite badass -- no fruity colors, just gradually less and less shiny.
 
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