stock removal WIP

farki said:
Something is fishy here...

If you use a drill bit with the diameter half the thickness of your blade stock material, you'll get your line scribed at 1/4 of your blade stock material thickness.
Do it again on the other side and you'll get two lines with a lot of space between them ( 1/2 of your blade thickness, or even more ).
That's pretty too much...Isn't it?

To make a long story short, by using a drill bit:
a) the same diameter as your stock material thickness, you'll get one (thick) center line
b) slightly less diameter then your stock material thickness, you'll get two parallel lines (better solution, perfect pre-HT grinding guidelines)

BTW: I can hardly believe that someone is using the calipers (vernier or dial) to scribe the lines. :eek:
I was taught not to do so. That tool is made for precision measuring, not for scribing. That's kind of blasphemy, as well as using a knife as a pry bar or....or a screwdriver...

Just my 2 cents....and excuse my French! ;)
Click to expand...

Oh my!
Good catch, thank you!
I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that. I actually use the b) Method to get the two lines for pre-HT and it works well for me. I've used method a) to lay out center lines for file work etc.

Thanks again for catching my mistake.:o
 
This is a great thread. I never thought of using my "cheater" for the initial hollow grinding for a tapered tang, but I'm going to be doing that from now on. Thanks!
 
Great Thread....thanks for doing this!

I get a big kick from seeing my stuff being used too, so thanks for that also.

All the best,

-Todd
 
This is one of Rob's utility blades that I finished out in blue maple burl. I think he mentioned it early in the thread so I thought I would post the pic here. He did a great job with it and I just tried not to scratch it up. Thanks again, Rob. :D

b001.jpg



Larry
 
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