Like Jim said, there aren't any hard data available, but as long as we're engaging in guesswork based on design and engineering principles, I shoud point out that cutout thickness isn't everything. In particular, you're missing one important difference between the framelocks of the SnG and the Umnumzaan (for example in the text that I've bolded above): the placement of the cutout. On the Strider (and, for that matter, the XM-18, ZT 030X, Kershaw Volt, and numerous customs), it's on the outside of the lockbar rather than the inside (as on CRKs). Since the point where the lock face engages the blade tang is on the same side, this results in a more direct transfer of stress down the lockbar, making the lock cutout less prone to buckling than if it it were on the other side. (Incidentally, I just compared my XM-18 to one of my SnGs, and there's no visually detectable difference between the thicknesses of the cutout.)
EDIT: As before, I thought folks might be interested in Mick's explanation in the Strider FAQ, which is basically identical to the one I just gave:
Neuron, I did not miss the fact that the relief cuts are on different sides or facing different directions, I've talked to one custom knife maker who also repairs and modifies knives and was and or is a certified repair provider for several of the major knife companies. This man has done extensive testing and has been quoted in this thread. He says it does''t matter what side the relief cut is on or what side it faces. That goes ditto for two of my friends that are mechanical engineers who design tools for the oil and gas rigs that are designed to push and pull over 300,000, both said the same thing, does not matter. Arranging the relief cut to face one way or the other is not going to make a significant difference what is in their opinion is to make the relief cut thicker, combined with full on lock bar face and tang engagement and angle at which the tang is cut with both of them agreeing 10 degrees to 12 degrees would probably be optimal. 10 to 12 degrees allows good engagement while still preventing excessive lock bar travel thereby increasing durability and longevity.
Moreover the thing that emerson says about the "shit vent" I think is shit, because the frame locks I have that have held up and have locks that function properly after heavy field use the best, are the ones where the tang and lock bar have near 100% parallel engagement. To put this in a better perspective on top of my own experience with frame locks I choose to believe the repair man and maker who fixed more frame locks than he cares to think to about as opposed to the man trying to sell me a brand new he made, get my drift, I'm going to believe the mechanic over the salesman. Take four wheelers for instance, we go to a dealership that sales four different brands, I go to the shop and ask the mechanics which ones do they repair the least and why, in my opinion that is how you find out whats hype and whats not.
I've had and still have some expensive frame locks >$400.00 and beat the living crap out of couple of em, and what works for me is the ones that have the most tang and lock bar face contact plain and simple, the ones that have given me problems were the ones that had less. What works for you and others maybe different as usage varies.
My main and original point is that the relief cut is thin on a hard use knife, like others have posted here, its got a bull pivot, and the blade is X thick, the handles are thick G10 and titanium. Then you get to this little bitty thin sliver of a relief cut. The knife is only as strong as its weakest link, so why not make it thicker instead of making all kinds of excuses like, its on the opposite side the stress isn't as much, or etc. etc. etc., make the things thicker to be more consistent with the rest of the knife.
Yes it will be harder to open, just like that STR HEMAN (no relief cut at all) frame lock I've got, but knuckle up your sporting a "hard use" knife that's made for F$%$#$% up as others have stated here. These are high speed tools for hardcore low drag individuals and your thumb isn't strong enough to push open a thicker lock. Somethings not jiving here. Personally I think they make them thin because most of these knives go to people who don't really use them, they go to people who flick them all day in their office, or in a drawer, or safe, whatever. So they make em for the masses to close easily and the occasional person that does buy a $400.00+ tool to really use, well when it gets sloppy with blade play they'll fix it. As it is a whole lot cheaper to fix the exceptions as opposed to the rule whereby if they made the relief cut out thicker a lot of the flickers would send it back because its tough to close.
The knives look great and I'm sure there something to em as there a lot of people here who like them, and other brands such as ernest emerson, et al. My point is just what I've said all along make the relief cut thicker to be more consistent with the knife overall. Think that strider is tough now imagine that thing with a relief cut this is 0.10 or a tenth of inch thick,
Now your cooking with peanut oil.
