Strider Warranty Repair: Cost and Wait?

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Fire_Brand

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Dec 30, 2009
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I just received a LNIB Artic Grey Strider with fully cerakoted blade, lock side and clip. This is my first Strider (and definitely my last), and it looks awesome... but it has lock-rock.

I purchased this second hand and the seller claimed it had no lock-rock so I was pretty disappointed when it arrived and it was immediately apparent. Now I'm trying to figure out a remedy for this situation but I want it to be equitable. I think the seller ought to make this right but I want to be fair about it and get everything settled ASAP.

So looking at Strider's website I know it will cost $25 just to cover return shipping (seriously?). Plus I need to pay to ship it there and I'm guessing it will take about a month before I would see the knife again. So what do you think is a reasonable amount to ask for to set this straight? I traded for the knife and we did an even trade value of $450.

I'm disappointed with the seller, but I'm honestly more disappointed with Strider. Problems like this would be inexcusable with a $50 knife so having them on a $450 knife seems absolutely insane to me.

So how should I settle this and if I send the knife in for a repair what does their turn-around time look like?
 
Don't see why your blaming this more on Strider. The seller/ trader knowingly sent you a knife with lock rock without telling you.
Its a simple fix. The guys at Strider will just put a cap over the stop pin making the blade lock up earlier and will eliminate the lock rock. For a temporary fix try putting a piece of tape over the stop pin on the ti side and see if that gets rid of the lock rock. But if I were in your shoes I would just have the trade reversed. You shouldn't have to deal with his faulty knife.
 
i blame the seller 100%, they lied (or made a claim they couldn't assert to be true) and I think the seller needs to make it right. I'm just saying I'm pretty disappointed a $450 knife would have lock rock in the first place. The knife definitely wasn't modified and because of the arctic grey coating I can tell it wasn't carried so it wasn't a result of something done to the knife.

But yeah, reversing the trade may be the best option, just a little disappointing. I still want the knife, so as long as the seller wants my knives enough to pay for the repairs on the Strider then it should be good I just want them to pay right away so I can get this settled before it is in the distant past and harder to resolve. But I need to know how much they should pay to make sure the repairs/shipping costs are covered.
 
Who is this active seller? I want to MAKE SURE I have no dealings with someone who would pull this shit.
 
Bludgeon said:
Who is this active seller? I want to MAKE SURE I have no dealings with someone who would pull this shit.
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It wasn't through BF, though I would guess they are a member here as well but I don't know their user name. I'm going to give them a very slight benefit of the doubt because the knife was about as new as you can get while still being second hand. There is a possibility they just didn't notice, but that would still mean they should never have made the claim it was free of lock rock in the first place.
 
So was it a sale or a trade? If it was a sale open a paypal claim, or dispute the charges with your financial institution. If it was a trade, you might be SOL, I don't know, I don't trade for just this reason, not much recourse. One thing for sure is that you need to bring this up on the website, forum, community, or wherever to remedy a deal/trade made there.

Further, coming on here and complaining about Strider's well know policies and history with lock issues isn't going to get you anywhere. You're not even close to the first and won't be the last. Fact is, before you buy (or trade) for something, you need to know what you are getting into. That onus is on you not Strider.
 
It was a trade, and I think we worked it out. He is going to pay for me to send it to Strider and get the repairs. But yeah, trades are risky and this is the highest value trade I've done so it's a little nerve racking.

And I never meant the purpose of this thread to be to complain about Strider or their policies. But it doesn't change the way I feel about it and I definitely don't feel like a poor track record makes them not at fault, maybe I shouldn't be surprised as a buyer but that's it.
 
Fire_Brand said:
It was a trade, and I think we worked it out. He is going to pay for me to send it to Strider and get the repairs. But yeah, trades are risky and this is the highest value trade I've done so it's a little nerve racking.

And I never meant the purpose of this thread to be to complain about Strider or their policies. But it doesn't change the way I feel about it and I definitely don't feel like a poor track record makes them not at fault, maybe I shouldn't be surprised as a buyer but that's it.
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Glad you got it worked out.

The thing is though, their track record is no secret. A simple search will show that. Also, their warranty shipping policy is readily available as well. When you traded for the knife you more or less agreed to own a knife with these two issues that you explained about. I mean you did say this:

Fire_Brand said:
I'm disappointed with the seller, but I'm honestly more disappointed with Strider. Problems like this would be inexcusable with a $50 knife so having them on a $450 knife seems absolutely insane to me.
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And IMO you are right. You still gotta do your research going into owning a Strider especially in a trade with no financial recourse. I know it sucks but it is what it is.

There are certainly companies that I will never own just from all the horror stories you hear.
 
If that had happened to me, I would have disputed the trade or sale. Lying or willful omission about condition is the behavior of someone who cares only about getting the most out of a sale or a trade.
 
All of the 6 or so striders ive owned had lock rock. Some from the get go, others took a few weeks.

I have heard strider has an excellent warranty, but have never experienced that first hand. Every time i would send an email I never got a response so I took the easy way out and sold everything ski related and swore off them for good.
 
asdf12345 said:
If that had happened to me, I would have disputed the trade or sale. Lying or willful omission about condition is the behavior of someone who cares only about getting the most out of a sale or a trade.
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Dispute it how? To whom? If the trade happened here there could have at least been pressure from this community and/or a possible ban from the mods but in so many other places people trade knives there is no one to dispute to (instagram, and facebook I'm looking at you). This is a problem with trades. There is no financial institution backing anything. No where to file a dispute for financial recourse.

Sounds like he did dispute it with the trade partner and it is getting taken care of. I think in this case the OP is lucky.
 
RIPtastic said:
Don't see why your blaming this more on Strider. The seller/ trader knowingly sent you a knife with lock rock without telling you.
Its a simple fix. The guys at Strider will just put a cap over the stop pin making the blade lock up earlier and will eliminate the lock rock. For a temporary fix try putting a piece of tape over the stop pin on the ti side and see if that gets rid of the lock rock. But if I were in your shoes I would just have the trade reversed. You shouldn't have to deal with his faulty knife.
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Just to let you know-There is no such thing as a Strider stop pin cap. If the problem is with the stop pin they will put a larger stop pin in. Stop pin cap is an internet myth.

Strider does not ship USPS, so that will account for at least some of the higher shipping costs. They were loosing knives with USPS so they don't ship through them and highly suggest you don't ship to them with USPS.
 
Fire_Brand said:
It was a trade, and I think we worked it out. He is going to pay for me to send it to Strider and get the repairs. But yeah, trades are risky and this is the highest value trade I've done so it's a little nerve racking.

And I never meant the purpose of this thread to be to complain about Strider or their policies. But it doesn't change the way I feel about it and I definitely don't feel like a poor track record makes them not at fault, maybe I shouldn't be surprised as a buyer but that's it.
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Wait till you buy a $1500.00 custom, new from maker with lock slip, or play.
I have had both happen, no big deal as these things get fixed, but it happens regardless of the price....

Strider will not charge you to fix it, just shipping, which is a set cost.
 
It doesn't matter if it had lock rock before or by some gremlins during shipping. You received a knife not as described, return for a refund.
 
It has been said 1,000 times but Strider knives usually require a little beak in period. As stated you should have done a little more research into the product you were getting into. That said, don't put any tape anywhere and there is no caps to put on anything, I don't know where someone heard that crap. Clean the lock face and blade tang, make sure there is no lube on there. Alcohol on a Q-tip works fine for this. Then it's just down to opening/closing the knife and using the knife as intended. I have many Strider folders and have owned a great deal more and none of them have lock rock or any other issues. Your knife is brand new, break it in.

On a side note, the other trader never should have stated that it locks up tightly when it didn't. Reverse the trade or give your new knife some time. It's part of owning a Strider folder, a well documented issue.
 
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Leftytwogunz said:
It has been said 1,000 times but Strider knives usually require a little beak in period. As stated you should have done a little more research into the product you were getting into. That said, don't put any tape anywhere and there is no caps to put on anything, I don't know where someone heard that crap. Clean the lock face and blade tang, make sure there is no lube on there. Alcohol on a Q-tip works fine for this. Then it's just down to opening/closing the knife and using the knife as intended. I have many Strider folders and have owned a great deal more and none of them have lock rock or any other issues. Your knife is brand new, break it in.

On a side note, the other trader never should have stated that it locks up tightly when it didn't. Reverse the trade or give your new knife some time. It's part of owning a Strider folder, a well documented issue.
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This should be a sticky somewhere .......
 
Leftytwogunz said:
It has been said 1,000 times but Strider knives usually require a little beak in period. As stated you should have done a little more research into the product you were getting into. That said, don't put any tape anywhere and there is no caps to put on anything, I don't know where someone heard that crap. Clean the lock face and blade tang, make sure there is no lube on there. Alcohol on a Q-tip works fine for this. Then it's just down to opening/closing the knife and using the knife as intended. I have many Strider folders and have owned a great deal more and none of them have lock rock or any other issues. Your knife is brand new, break it in.

On a side note, the other trader never should have stated that it locks up tightly when it didn't. Reverse the trade or give your new knife some time. It's part of owning a Strider folder, a well documented issue.
Click to expand...


Excellent advice
 
Leftytwogunz said:
It has been said 1,000 times but Strider knives usually require a little beak in period. As stated you should have done a little more research into the product you were getting into. That said, don't put any tape anywhere and there is no caps to put on anything, I don't know where someone heard that crap. Clean the lock face and blade tang, make sure there is no lube on there. Alcohol on a Q-tip works fine for this. Then it's just down to opening/closing the knife and using the knife as intended. I have many Strider folders and have owned a great deal more and none of them have lock rock or any other issues. Your knife is brand new, break it in.

On a side note, the other trader never should have stated that it locks up tightly when it didn't. Reverse the trade or give your new knife some time. It's part of owning a Strider folder, a well documented issue.
Click to expand...

Its usually when the knife has "broken" in that it starts to develop lock rock. If the lock bar does not have enough tension theres no amount of breaking in that will get rid of the lock rock. The lock bar will either need to be adjusted or a bigger stop pin, or cap be installed. And maybe the shop now installs stop pins but for a time they did put caps on ti side stop pin.
 
Leftytwogunz said:
It has been said 1,000 times but Strider knives usually require a little beak in period. As stated you should have done a little more research into the product you were getting into. That said, don't put any tape anywhere and there is no caps to put on anything, I don't know where someone heard that crap. Clean the lock face and blade tang, make sure there is no lube on there. Alcohol on a Q-tip works fine for this. Then it's just down to opening/closing the knife and using the knife as intended. I have many Strider folders and have owned a great deal more and none of them have lock rock or any other issues. Your knife is brand new, break it in.

On a side note, the other trader never should have stated that it locks up tightly when it didn't. Reverse the trade or give your new knife some time. It's part of owning a Strider folder, a well documented issue.
Click to expand...

Forgive me if I'm just ignorant but the lock doesn't go far enough to engage the tang, I don't see how how using the knife will remedy this. I could take it apart and bend the lock bar in further but it looks like that would void my warranty.

*Typos
 
No caps, No tooth fairy and no Santa
Caps would be a terribly hard, costly and poor method to achieve a slightly larger stop pin. Imagine milling this cap to tightly fit over the old one and only have a fraction larger exterior diameter and fraction large interior diameter than the olds exterior. Then glue it to a old worn stop pin. The larger stop pin is just on ti side so some have mistaken it as a cap.
 
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