Strider Warranty Repair: Cost and Wait?

RIPtastic said:
Its usually when the knife has "broken" in that it starts to develop lock rock. If the lock bar does not have enough tension theres no amount of breaking in that will get rid of the lock rock. The lock bar will either need to be adjusted or a bigger stop pin, or cap be installed. And maybe the shop now installs stop pins but for a time they did put caps on ti side stop pin.
Click to expand...

I'm glad I'm not going crazy...
 
Peter Hartwig said:
No caps, No tooth fairy and no Santa
Caps would be a terribly hard, costly and poor method to achieve a slightly larger stop pin. Imagine milling this cap to tightly fit over the old one and only be a have a fraction larger exterior diameter. Then glue it to a old worn stop pin. The larger stop pin is just on ti side so some have mistaken it as a cap.
Click to expand...

I didn't say it was the best method. I just said that was the way they fixed lock rock for a time.
 
RIPtastic said:
I didn't say it was the best method. I just said that was the way they fixed lock rock for a time.
Click to expand...

One last time-NO

While Lefty's post will take care of the problem in a great many cases, sometimes bending the lockbar or sending it in is the only way to go.
 
Peter Hartwig said:
One last time-NO

While Lefty's post will take care of the problem in a great many cases, sometimes bending the lockbar or sending it in is the only way to go.
Click to expand...

LOL.... what are you "no"ing about. So your saying for a fact the Strider shop never put any caps on any knives?
 
RIPtastic said:
Its usually when the knife has "broken" in that it starts to develop lock rock. If the lock bar does not have enough tension theres no amount of breaking in that will get rid of the lock rock. The lock bar will either need to be adjusted or a bigger stop pin, or cap be installed. And maybe the shop now installs stop pins but for a time they did put caps on ti side stop pin.
Click to expand...

If you say so. I've never seen one with any caps on it, I've never owned one that didn't have enough lock bar tension and I've never needed one to have a bigger stop pin installed. I have had a loose pocket clip replaced, broken blade replaced and personalized etching put on one (3 different occasions on 3 different knives) all for the cost of shipping alone. I do own a SMF that I've had for about 7+ years of almost daily use that has never developed lock rock. I have seen lock movement when some oil got on the lockup but that is it. I have experienced some sticky lock with brand new folders that went away after break in. I currently have about 7 Strider folders that exhibit none of these issues that you mention out of the probably 30 or so that I have owned or come into contact with.

Do you own Strider folders, do you have personal experience with these issues or..??

Fire_Brand said:
Forgive me if I'm just ignorant but the lock doesn't go far enough to engage the tang, I don't see how how using the knife will remedy this. I could take it apart and bend the lock bar in further but it looks like that would void my warranty.

*Typos
Click to expand...

Ok so if the knife has lock rock that means that it does lock up. Meaning that the lock bar has to engage the tang, otherwise the knife would just close shut like a slip joint and be unable to have the lock rock that you mention. Is it possible that the lock up is just super early like you see on a lot of them? The opening/closing and use that I mention will allow the Titanium lock bar to wear some to where it makes better contact with the tang. Once it does this there should be no more lock rock.

I don't know if it's the angle at which they finish the lockbars or the tang and they just do not perfectly meet up right from the begining or if it's bumps or grooves on the Ti that need to be worn off until they meet up perfectly. But I do know that many Strider folders require a well documented break in period and that many new Strider folder owners have complaints similar to yours that often get worked out after a break in period. I have seen this over the course of many years of reading forums like this one and the USN, etc. as well as plenty of personal experience with the knives.

I have seen on the Chris Reeve shop tour videos that they take the extra step and appear to machine the lockup of their knives. I believe this gives them later, more solid lock up and you don't hear much about CRK break in periods like you do with Striders.

I wouldn't recommend bending the Ti ever. If you like the knife and want to keep the knife, get $ from the trader and send it in to Strider if that is what will make you feel comfortable. You stated that this is your last Strider ever pretty early in the process so if you are that unhappy with the knife I would initiate a trade back with the other guy. It is up to you, but once you modify the knife it is rightfully yours.
 
Leftytwogunz said:
If you say so. I've never seen one with any caps on it, I've never owned one that didn't have enough lock bar tension and I've never needed one to have a bigger stop pin installed. I have had a loose pocket clip replaced, broken blade replaced and personalized etching put on one (3 different occasions on 3 different knives) all for the cost of shipping alone. I do own a SMF that I've had for about 7+ years of almost daily use that has never developed lock rock. I have seen lock movement when some oil got on the lockup but that is it. I have experienced some sticky lock with brand new folders that went away after break in. I currently have about 7 Strider folders that exhibit none of these issues that you mention out of the probably 30 or so that I have owned or come into contact with.

Do you own Strider folders, do you have personal experience with these issues or..??



Ok so if the knife has lock rock that means that it does lock up. Meaning that the lock bar has to engage the tang, otherwise the knife would just close shut like a slip joint and be unable to have the lock rock that you mention. Is it possible that the lock up is just super early like you see on a lot of them? The opening/closing and use that I mention will allow the Titanium lock bar to wear some to where it makes better contact with the tang. Once it does this there should be no more lock rock.

I don't know if it's the angle at which they finish the lockbars or the tang and they just do not perfectly meet up right from the begining or if it's bumps or grooves on the Ti that need to be worn off until they meet up perfectly. But I do know that many Strider folders require a well documented break in period and that many new Strider folder owners have complaints similar to yours that often get worked out after a break in period. I have seen this over the course of many years of reading forums like this one and the USN, etc. as well as plenty of personal experience with the knives.

I have seen on the Chris Reeve shop tour videos that they take the extra step and appear to machine the lockup of their knives. I believe this gives them later, more solid lock up and you don't hear much about CRK break in periods like you do with Striders.

I wouldn't recommend bending the Ti ever. If you like the knife and want to keep the knife, get $ from the trader and send it in to Strider if that is what will make you feel comfortable. You stated that this is your last Strider ever pretty early in the process so if you are that unhappy with the knife I would initiate a trade back with the other guy. It is up to you, but once you modify the knife it is rightfully yours.
Click to expand...

It moves over about 60% but it needs to go about 65% before touching the tang of the knife. This Strider is the newest generation where they went with a very flat tang face rather than a radiused face like in the older designs so it's not an early lock up. And it nearly goes far enough, and at 60% it's far enough that the knife won't close on it self, the blade goes down just a touch and it hits the lock, but there is a slight air gap between the lock face and the tang. So right now I can wiggle the blade up and down and get a clicking from it the blade going back and forth between contacting at the tang and contacting at the stop pin.

To be fair, like other people have said this is a common problem and just a little bit of googling did show me that plenty of people have this problem. But yeah, fortunately I got money from the trader to send it in to Strider so that should fix everything!
 
Leftytwogunz said:
Do you own Strider folders, do you have personal experience with these issues or..??
Click to expand...

Sure do, I wouldn't pipe in if I didn't have any experience with Strider folders. Thru the years I've owned roughly 10 SnG's, 3 SMF's and two PT's. The only Strider I have right now is a digicam PT CC which unfortunately does have lock rock. Out of all the Striders I've owned probably 5 of them had lock rock. I've never sent anything in for warranty work myself but I've heard plenty of stories here and on USN.
 
I just recently sent a strider in for repair. They told me 2 weeks once they received the knife and took 4. All that i needed them to do was replace a scale screw. i also received the knife back with a little lock stick.
 
RIPtastic said:
LOL.... what are you "no"ing about. So your saying for a fact the Strider shop never put any caps on any knives?
Click to expand...

Yes , that is what I am saying. Before committing to never I spoke with a Strider expert I know, just to make sure I wasn't going to far out on the limb. His response was that he has spoken to Mick Strider on the subject and was told "They do not and have never used caps"
Believe me or not
Done
 
RIPtastic said:
Don't see why your blaming this more on Strider. The seller/ trader knowingly sent you a knife with lock rock without telling you.
Its a simple fix. The guys at Strider will just put a cap over the stop pin making the blade lock up earlier and will eliminate the lock rock. For a temporary fix try putting a piece of tape over the stop pin on the ti side and see if that gets rid of the lock rock. But if I were in your shoes I would just have the trade reversed. You shouldn't have to deal with his faulty knife.
Click to expand...

I'd hope they would at least put caps on both sides to make the knife look symmetrical. I saw one a while back that had a really big cap on one side and nothing on the other. It was wild.
 
D.C.Johnson said:
All of the 6 or so striders ive owned had lock rock. Some from the get go, others took a few weeks.

I have heard strider has an excellent warranty, but have never experienced that first hand. Every time i would send an email I never got a response so I took the easy way out and sold everything ski related and swore off them for good.
Click to expand...

This has been my experience as well. I actually really like strider knives but the lock rock, lock stick, and blade play cannot be overlooked for the price. Several emails to strider went unanswered and I no longer own any strider. Too bad because could be really awesome knives.
 
RevDevil said:
I'd hope they would at least put caps on both sides to make the knife look symmetrical. I saw one a while back that had a really big cap on one side and nothing on the other. It was wild.
Click to expand...

Other than them not being caps(stop pins) :), that is a normal fix. The design is for the stop pins to hit on the Ti side only. When they do a fix, they achieve this by either enlarging the Ti side stop pin or cutting back the G10 side depending on what they feel would work best in the situation
 
I see now that it is probably a larger pin placed in only one side. I am mistaken and your correct. You can see how it is easy to see why it looks like a cap is used being a different color and all.
 
Not sure your model but there was or maybe still is an arctic gray lego up on the sale or trade. I cant quite remember, maybe a few days ago.
 
RIPtastic said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkXv9FO6F8c

1:20
Click to expand...

I wouldn't put too much faith in youtuber "M0DiFiEDZ" who admits that he voided the warranty on his knife by modification, and whose channel is filled with DIY knife modding tips.
I don't presume to know what all he did to that knife nor what Strider had to do to fix it.

I guess part of the price of a Strider is the warranty that comes with it. I would chose to use it before any DIY modifications, as I have had good experiences with them in the past.
 
dasknife said:
Not sure your model but there was or maybe still is an arctic gray lego up on the sale or trade. I cant quite remember, maybe a few days ago.
Click to expand...

Just checked. Not the same one. Mine is a PD1 blade but it also has a full arctic grey cerakote and not just the arctic grey G10.
 
I think you will be very happy with the PD-1 blade. Hope you get all this behind you soon and get to enjoying your blade
 
Peter Hartwig said:
Other than them not being caps(stop pins) :), that is a normal fix. The design is for the stop pins to hit on the Ti side only. When they do a fix, they achieve this by either enlarging the Ti side stop pin or cutting back the G10 side depending on what they feel would work best in the situation
Click to expand...

I'm aware of what the stop pins are. I've owned 3 SMF, 3 SnGs and 1 PT. I'm down to 1 SMF and 1 SnG. No stranger to the brand by any stretch. I just don't think I would like seeing a larger diameter "stop pin" on one side, regardless of how it might be installed, be it a cover or otherwise. I'll find out at some point when I send this one back for repair.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top