Strongest folding knife !

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Laurence,
I see your point.... so a real life lateral strength test would involve clamping the blade at some point ......60% from pivot pin and pulling down on remaining handle just behind locking mechanism.

Mike

So here's a question since you're so keen on FEA.

Have you bothered to model a standard well built folding knife pivot and lock, let's say a sebenza for example, and stressed it to failure in order to tell whether or how much stronger your design compared to the current standards?

It's all well and good to say your knife models at a particular strength, but without other data points it doesn't tell you whether what kind of improvement you're looking for. Are you operating in a vacuum or have you already done the virtual comparison as a first step to doing it in the real world?

I'd be more willing to accept the claims of superiority based on model results if you could at least show a comparative results in your model.

The first step in solving a problem is delineating what the problem is. You claim your problem solves the issue of lateral weakness in folding knife design. Just how big a problem are you solving? I don't know. I don't think you know either. Maybe that would be a first step. Think about late night made for TV marketing. First they show you the problem. Then they show you how their new product fixes it. That's how you end up buying something you didn't know you needed.

I don't know that I need a laterally stronger pivot. If you want to sell me a knife based on that, you have to convince me that I have a problem you are going to solve for me first. Then show me your solution.
 
Quality folding knives are overbuilt for their intended purposes....ie....cutting, whittling, trimming, some light prying. The tang area in folders is designed

with a pivot pin, blade tang/aperture, on each side is a nylon or bronze washer(not HT), stainless liner material(not HT) some clearance on both sides of

each washer so blade can rotate, handle G10 or FRN(potential clearance when crushed during side load). First to go at the pivot pin location during

increasing side load is the G10 handle, then the teflon, nylon, bronze or 300 series stainless washers compress to the point that they create excessive

clearance.
 
What ? :confused:

How many knives have you actually tested to destruction in the real world ? I have mangled a few knives with various different locks and materials used and this is not what happened.

Quality folding knives are overbuilt for their intended purposes....ie....cutting, whittling, trimming, some light prying. The tang area in folders is designed

with a pivot pin, blade tang/aperture, on each side is a nylon or bronze washer(not HT), stainless liner material(not HT) some clearance on both sides of

each washer so blade can rotate, handle G10 or FRN(potential clearance when crushed during side load). First to go at the pivot pin location during

increasing side load is the G10 handle, then the teflon, nylon, bronze or 300 series stainless washers compress to the point that they create excessive

clearance.
 
Haze,
What happened when you applied a 200lbs blade side load to those knives you destroyed ?
 
If you answer my question I'll answer yours...there are a few other questions you could address if you look back through this thread. :)

Haze,
What happened when you applied a 200lbs blade side load to those knives you destroyed ?
 
Side loading a blade with a well designed lock and pivot assembly is irrelevant. The blade will almost always fail before the pivot or lock. A vertical load, that does not stress the blade in the lateral cross section, will test the lock as locks are (in my opinion) tested in real use.

Please get back to us when you have tested your lock some other way.
 
Quality folding knives are overbuilt for their intended purposes....ie....cutting, whittling, trimming, some light prying. The tang area in folders is designed

with a pivot pin, blade tang/aperture, on each side is a nylon or bronze washer(not HT), stainless liner material(not HT) some clearance on both sides of

each washer so blade can rotate, handle G10 or FRN(potential clearance when crushed during side load). First to go at the pivot pin location during

increasing side load is the G10 handle, then the teflon, nylon, bronze or 300 series stainless washers compress to the point that they create excessive

clearance.

Dude...

1) as a general rule, a quality folding knife is built for the purpose of cutting (it's the same concept as giving a phone a million features + a free happy ending with each sale, but forgetting the reception part)
2) folding knives are not built for prying, and folding knives built to pry generally suck at cutting and have minimal value as a cutting tool (ex: try slicing an apple with a Crusader Forge)
3) the materials used for prying, or the heat treatment of steels used for prying, are generally dramatically different than a HT used for a cutting tool (two different characteristics (edge retention<----->toughness) (for example, S7 can withstand incredible shock/impact/deformation, but gives the edge retention of a spork)
4) of the thousands of knives with G10 I have sold, I have not once heard of the G10 "going" (G10 is a very strong material and G10 failures are as common as poly frame failures on GLOCK firearms [rarer than my Prime Rib])
5) of the many accounts of failures I have read, I have not once heard of the G10 "going"
6) of the thousands of knives I have sold, I have never heard of the knife suffering compression that would cause the issue you are listing in the fashion being presented
7) the mating of multiple pieces plays a pivotal role in an equation you are presenting as a 1+1=4 (for example, look at the standoff design on the Hinderer XM-18 and the hardware being used to mate the different handle components and distribute load/shock)
8) other things generally break first before what you are describing, and on folding knives it is almost always the blade because the basic design of a more compact knife limits how thick you can make the blade, and the need for wear resistance limits you from using something like S7 steel, which has a huggggggeeeeeee advantage if you are talking about doing something like prying over almost everything else)

Computers are great but if the data you are simulating is suggesting this is how knives fail, some 0's and 1's may have done a doubletake...

A company known as Dark Ops Knives promotes many of their knives using logic on knife failure that contradicts 99.9% of the first hand data on design, usage, and failures. Much of what they present is void of any empirical evidence. If the scenario you are describing is something you find to be common or a vulnerability that quality knives have, I would suggest posting more than just a text description given you can search this entire forum, and quickly find this is not a failure that users are reporting.
 
I can't believe this is still going on. FFK here has demonstrated that he has no personal experience with knife-making, and keeps making comments that speak to his almost petulant "Oh yeah, well can other knives do this??" views that knives should somehow be used as prybars. Which makes no sense, because when I need to pry something, I use a prybar, not one of my fixed blades (and definitely not any of my folders).

I don't get that he keeps trying to act like people "just don't get" his product, because we don't use knives as prybars.
 
Please stop this aweful thread. This guy is sick or something and just wants us to go on and on, wasting our time.
 
I was prying part of a busted 1911 mag with my old used and abused Spyderco Ladybug and the blade snapped. That Ladybug had a very small pinned pivot and linerless FRN for handle material.

I don't see how the FFK design would help in a prying situation like that. Please address my question as I have been trying to give you the benefit of the doubt and do think your flush locking mechanism is a step in the right direction. Thanks!
 
I can't believe this is still going on. FFK here has demonstrated that he has no personal experience with knife-making, and keeps making comments that speak to his almost petulant "Oh yeah, well can other knives do this??" views that knives should somehow be used as prybars. Which makes no sense, because when I need to pry something, I use a prybar, not one of my fixed blades (and definitely not any of my folders).

I don't get that he keeps trying to act like people "just don't get" his product, because we don't use knives as prybars.

I know what you mean. And yet for some reason, I cannot stop coming to this thread when I see there are new posts... it's addicting somehow...
 
I can't believe this is still going on. FFK here has demonstrated that he has no personal experience with knife-making, and keeps making comments that speak to his almost petulant "Oh yeah, well can other knives do this??" views that knives should somehow be used as prybars. Which makes no sense, because when I need to pry something, I use a prybar, not one of my fixed blades (and definitely not any of my folders).

I don't get that he keeps trying to act like people "just don't get" his product, because we don't use knives as prybars.

RedLynx,
Yes! this had taken on a addictive tone somehow? Lol I have been trying to keep patience & tolerant of our new member but its reached the point of being comical and bordering on ridiculous.

He does say he owns a couple of folders but its apparent that he has little or no real world experience even using knives in the field, Folder or fixed blade.

Mike,
I will check back, "Cause i'm addicted" When you straighten out your pry bar knife and have a full size real one to tell & show us all about how your lock can withstand lateral stresses that none of us put on our folders..

Please prove me wrong!
 
The sad part is that lateral stresses have nothing to do with lock strength.
You could have a slip joint overbuilt to handle prying tasks.
 
RedLynx,
Yes! this had taken on a addictive tone somehow? Lol I have been trying to keep patience & tolerant of our new member but its reached the point of being comical and bordering on ridiculous.

He does say he owns a couple of folders but its apparent that he has little or no real world experience even using knives in the field, Folder or fixed blade.

That's sort of the issue that is the crux of the matter.

I'm not an electrical engineer, for example... if someone said "wire my house up properly and I'll pay you a million dollars but you have to start now, no research" I'd be out a million dollars.

Same goes with building something. I do have experience with knives but I couldn't make one to save my life, most likely. Anything you're gonna do or build that has a practical application I think requires some practical knowledge. Which is not to say OP doesn't have it (I couldn't build a new knife locking mechanism, either, to be honest) but as you say, it seems like this may be the case.

I also feel like we're responding to different "FFK" people. No offense Mike if that is not the case, I apologize, it just feels like we're getting some pretty disassociated responses here.

Another final note: as none of us really use our folders this way (putting massive lateral stress on them) it seems like if this is one of the main selling points, it won't sell to the typical enthusiast here... that's just my two cents. Heck, even if I knew this could withstand hundreds of pounds of such stress, I likely still wouldn't use it for this purpose. It's just not what my folding knives are for, and it would be a pretty hard mindset to change in my case.
 
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