Strongest knife steel out of...?

J

JDX

Joined
Mar 2, 2014
Messages
923
I abuse my knives. I use them as hammers, pry bars, whatever I need to accomplish. I haven't been looking too upscale because my budget is around 100. Obviously I'd prefer less. I've been looking at:
-N680
-VG10
-D2
-ATS34
-154CM

Which of these is the strongest/most durable? I already have knives for cutting purposes, so edge retention isn't really important to me.
 
Is this something that you want to carry with your knives made for cutting purposes? If so, I would strongly recommend something along the lines of a pocket prybar. Steels appropriate for making knives out of are inappropriate for actions like prying and hammering. The only ones that come close(and keep in mind the geometry of a knife makes them typically weak for prying) are steels like 5160(due to your listing of stainless steels, I think this may not be what you are looking for). I could be wrong, so if anyone wishes to contradict me, I would not mind.
 
None of those listed are particularly tough.

but....

Depends on other other variables like stock thickness, heat treatment, grind & edge geometry.

It is an infinite answer question. Toughness can mean different things like bend strength, impact strength, edge stability, etc. The tougher you make a knife, the less good it is at knife things- like cutting.

All in all I'd opt for a mini pry bar instead of destroying knives.
 
I understand that the steels listed aren't the strongest in the world, I just wanted to know out of the list, which was the strongest in terms of bending strength. I almost considered a kabar bk2, but I'd rather have something in my pocket. And mini prybars don't offer enough leverage for my liking.
 
Joe Watson said:
None of those listed are particularly tough.

but....

Depends on other other variables like stock thickness, heat treatment, grind & edge geometry.

It is an infinite answer question. Toughness can mean different things like bend strength, impact strength, edge stability, etc. The tougher you make a knife, the less good it is at knife things- like cutting.

All in all I'd opt for a mini pry bar instead of destroying knives.
Click to expand...

I second that. :thumbup:
 
JDX said:
I understand that the steels listed aren't the strongest in the world, I just wanted to know out of the list, which was the strongest in terms of bending strength. I almost considered a kabar bk2, but I'd rather have something in my pocket. And mini prybars don't offer enough leverage for my liking.
Click to expand...

You are talking about folders?

Short answer is none in your price range, double or triple it and you are starting to get close to some of the ones that could actually work because they have thick enough geometry to use as a pry bar and might actually hold up for awhile.
 
JDX said:
I understand that the steels listed aren't the strongest in the world, I just wanted to know out of the list, which was the strongest in terms of bending strength. I almost considered a kabar bk2, but I'd rather have something in my pocket. And mini prybars don't offer enough leverage for my liking.
Click to expand...

First off, you should stop prying with your knives. Second, do some research about heat treatment. You can have the same steel, with two different heat treats, and they will react differently.

Seriously, stop prying with your knives. That's a very stupid thing to do.

You want a hammer and a prybar?

Stanley_Hand_Tools_55-09_64_Oz_18_inch_FatMax_Xtreme_Fubar_Functional_Utility_Bar.jpg
 
JDX I'm confused by your post, you say you have knives for for cutting so edge retention is not important but you abuse knives and use them for hammers and pry bars. It would be like saying I already have a hammer for pounding so hammering is not important I need a hammer that cuts well.
 
The benchmade triage is a tough knife that can withstand prying and has a very tough lock. Or so I've heard. A little over $100 though. It's 154cm. But I agree with the others that you're not using tools effectively or using the right tool in general. It's pretty inefficient to use a folder for the activities you mentioned. But if I had to I would want the triage.
 
You're not really understanding me. I have knives I've used as prybars and they break. And I don't want a full size hammer or prybar smartass. I need something I can put in my pocket. And @Final Option. That's not what I'm saying at all. I don't need a hammer that cuts. I just need something on me for when I run into a situation where I need to pry something open. but early none of you will answer my question. So don't bother replying. I'd say thanks for the help, but I mostly got criticized so thanks for nothing.
 
D2, I think would be the toughest of those, but I'm not sure. I would recommend a Benchmade Adamas, as it's pretty bulletproof.
 
Oh boo-hoo, you already got your answer and that is none. If you absolutely need a knife that could "possibly" be used for those purposes, get yourself a cheapie and don't bother trying to get a higher quality knife that you think will take that kind of abuse just because it's made out of tougher steel, even if it's for 'just in case' situations.
 
The most I can give you is to get yourself a Cold Steel Recon, it's cheap and takes abuse, it's steel is by no means 'super' since it was made to take a beating, easy to sharpen
 
JDX said:
I don't need a hammer that cuts. I just need something on me for when I run into a situation where I need to pry something open.
Click to expand...
And that thing you're looking for will not be a folder.
I'd say thanks for the help, but I mostly got criticized so thanks for nothing.
Click to expand...
You're welcome.
 
Folding prybar/knife=sandwich bag full of ice cubes and a finger...
I'd go with one of the little fixed blades like the eskabar, Spartan enyo, or becker bk-11. Leave the knife in the kydex and pry with the tang, and carry it in your pocket on a static cord. Just an idea.
 
Get a Spyderco Tuff. CPM-3V and a huge thick blade stock. Should serve you well, but if you break that blade it will hurt your pocketbook...
 
You talking prying open a door, a roof hatch, a crate lid, or ?
If it doesnt have to be a folder, short and thick like a bark river sts 3 or 4.
In a folder i would look at the thickest tanto blade, but the weakness is going to be in the pivot joint so blade stee wont matter much.
 
To paraphrase most, the steel won't matter if it is the joint in the construction that is likely to fail (on most knives in your budget). Look for "pocket widgy bar" it is designed for military usage, small strong pry bar with small footprint. They are sold on a Countrysomething site.
Use a knife to cut things, a small pry for light prying and take an honest look at your daily tasks and then another list of what you Might encounter and see what you actually need to "carry" on you and what you can do with close by.

A knife And small widgy prybar can be easily carried in a side or back pocket.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top