Strongest knife steel out of...?

Alright, if you must go down the knife path, how about an Esee izula/izula II. Hold up to a lot of abuse, a good amount under your 100$ limit and they come with a warranty that covers whatever you want to do with it. Can easily fit in a pocket as well. However, they may not be great for hammering.
 
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Yeh, I know, I'm a smartass...:p
 
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If you want a knife that you can pry with, save up and get a Boker Prymate. Fixed blade, over 1/4 inch thick, 6 1/2 inches OAL. It could go in your back pocket in a pocket sheath.
 
JDX said:
You're not really understanding me. I have knives I've used as prybars and they break. And I don't want a full size hammer or prybar smartass. I need something I can put in my pocket. And @Final Option. That's not what I'm saying at all. I don't need a hammer that cuts. I just need something on me for when I run into a situation where I need to pry something open. but early none of you will answer my question. So don't bother replying. I'd say thanks for the help, but I mostly got criticized so thanks for nothing.
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Woah Woah Woah now Mr. Tough Guy... I gave you an option.

I keep one of those in my truck and it comes in handy when I have to pry on something. If you don't want to carry an EDC prybar in your pocket, then you're out of luck, because no knife should be used to pry anything. Now calm down, no one is telling you to jump off a bridge.
 
JDX said:
-N680
-VG10
-D2
-ATS34
-154CM
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Of the steels listed I would choose D2.

However there is a lot more to it than that- the heat treat, the blade thickness, the blade taper, the shape of the blade tang, all of those factors can have an affect on the strength of the blade.
 
OP, get a small esee fixed blade. You break it, they replace it, no questions. Buy one and go wild.
 
Benchmade Adamas or Spyderco TUFF.

When you're asking for help, name-calling is not such a good idea.
 
Prying with a knife is a BAD idea! I just broke a custom fixed blade in O1 steel, not by prying sideways, but by twisting fairly lightly. Knife blade steels tend to snap easily.

A ''wrecking knife'' might be a good idea, and seem to be fairly cheap for one made by Mora.

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JDX said:
I abuse my knives. I use them as hammers, pry bars, whatever I need to accomplish. I haven't been looking too upscale because my budget is around 100. Obviously I'd prefer less. I've been looking at:
-N680
-VG10
-D2
-ATS34
-154CM

Which of these is the strongest/most durable? I already have knives for cutting purposes, so edge retention isn't really important to me.
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singularity35 said:
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Seriously, ^this.

I also use my knives as needed when i don't have the "proper" tool at hand provided that the knife can do the job, i.e. it was designed for it. What singularity35 posted is a multitool specifically designed for such a variety of uses. I don't have one, but I do have other folding knives (and multitools) that i have used for light chopping, chisel, prying, hammering, etc. An important question for folks to ask is, "Why can't my knife do that?" For hammering, the knife needs sufficiently tough steel of sufficient thickness positioned to allow sufficient leverage for impacts. My Gerber Propel has a hammer-pommel, not part of the blade, which functions fine as a light hammer. I also has a thick tip and saber-grind and steel liners - it is built to withstand significant prying, I just try not to focus leverage on the pivot (weak point). I also use it to cut rope, roots, hide, cardboard, wood, rubber, metal, plastic, veggies, etc. As i mentioned, the blade has a rather thick grind, it isn't the best cutter, but it can do everything you mentioned. I have one in S30V and one in 420HC and wouldn't hesitate to use either in this fashion. That doesn't mean you should buy the Propel, there are MANY other knives with similar features, namely a strong frame or other hammer-able surface and a thick blade (like the wrecker seen above). Need a knife that can be used as a screw-driver? Look at a leatherman or SAK. The rational of carrying a pry-baby or other such tool is sound, the cutting-part of a knife is the blade, but you don't need to limit yourself to ONLY a blade.

As for the steels you mentioned, N680 has the least carbon, basically 440A or 420HC steel for decent toughness but low wear-resistance. The others are lower toughness "high carbon" stainless steels, better for wear-resistance.
 
JDX said:
I already have knives for cutting purposes, so edge retention isn't really important to me.
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Well, there ya go...... What you are looking for is not a knife. How about a Dead On Annihilator? I love mine. Works great - try and break it!

Save the cutting for knives.
 
Have someone make you a small fixed blade out of 5160. Or the CRKT MAK1 or a Razel.
 
JDX said:
I abuse my knives. I use them as hammers, pry bars, whatever I need to accomplish. I haven't been looking too upscale because my budget is around 100. Obviously I'd prefer less. I've been looking at:
-N680
-VG10
-D2
-ATS34
-154CM

Which of these is the strongest/most durable? I already have knives for cutting purposes, so edge retention isn't really important to me.
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All of the steels list have different propertys, or characteristics depending on intented use. ONE perfect steel, NO.
 
if the impacting is domained in your useage , chose lower carbon / lower alloy steel , like 4140 5160 ETC.

Strength does not mean toughness , and strength is mostly related to hardness .

if you wanna a sharpen prybar , you should go Cold Steel throwing knives made of 1055 ,very tough and cheap , i like those things .:thumbup:
 
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