skammer said:
...I have destroyed machettes on hard wood in the past with ease, its the wrong type of blade for northern climates.
Which types? Decent ones like Barteaux and Martindale should not be destroyed, unless defective, they are not optimal though, they stick and the vibration can be excessive. I have a couple around if you want to try one out. They handle the cutting well in regards to durability but a primary grind on thicker steel is a better choice, golok/parang.
...this is a LOADED topic
It usually comes down to experience, always ask to see what else is being used, if the poster has only used a quality axe and junk long blades, then it is no surprise that everything points to axes.
Many of us carry a saw and yes it is faster to saw a 3 inch tree with a saw ...
Depends on the wood and the soil. If the tree is properly rooted and pine or similar soft/medium fir, a decent long blade gets about 2" of penetration, this means it takes down 3-4" sticks in just a few hits. Two to four to open up the notch and one on the back and then it is done. You can't match this with a saw. Of course if the wood is knotty, or the soil is rocky and the tree will move, or the wood is just really hard, then saws can pull ahead.
Splitting firewood to get at the dry center is a pretty important skill in very wet weather and does make a big difference in getting a good fire going. A saw cannot do this in any way.
Make a series of cuts horizontally into the wood, then hit them with a rock, they will break off. A lot more time than splitting of course, but it can be done.
A saw blade cannot cut anything that requires a sharp edge either.
The quality japanese ones can cut cardboard, ropes, pastics, webbing, leather, synthetics, even flesh, though they tear it up. Similar to a really aggressive serration pattern, no where near optimal but functional.
A short blade cannot be pounded through thick logs.
Start at the outside and work in sections, essentially taking off a slab at a time until you have reduced the piece in thickness enough to split directly.
Note none of the above is an arguement for actually packing those tools to do those things, just some information on how to make due with them if that is all you have, I prefer a longer blade, 14-16", 1/4", 2" wide, full flat or dual convex grind.
shpshooter said:
I always found the bigger blades uncomfortable to carry
Work with a decent sheath maker.
-Cliff