Survive! Knives GSO-5.1 - comparison to SYKCO 511, SRKW RatManDu, Cattaraugus 225Q

chiral.grolim said:
Yes, it is thinner. I mentioned it at the beginning of the review. Guy also stated that he did this in his recent video, 1:17

[video=youtube;JnAKtElk_PY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnAKtElk_PY[/video]


An update to this thread, some videos of the GSO-5.1 in use are being uploaded today, should be online tonight, I'll embed them here. Stay tuned ;)
Click to expand...


Yeah I knew that....it's crazy man. I chopped using my gso 5 and I was hitting the edge straight with my baton and there's no edge damage I can find with a naked eye. These 3V's are tough. My bravo 1.5 in 3v took some minor rolls along the edge. I didn't measure both edges but from what I can tell the 1.5 has a thicker edge. That s!%$ made me mad.
 
Video Uploads:

[video=youtube;v7DEvJAwj7c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7DEvJAwj7c[/video]

[video=youtube;bIx2zaqWim8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIx2zaqWim8[/video]

[video=youtube;QyBhMK5zlxU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyBhMK5zlxU[/video]
 
[video=youtube;ipw7opIQsik]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipw7opIQsik[/video]
 
I see what you mean with the RMD. I tried to find the place where I read/heard the comment about the straight spine, but with no luck. I read and watch so many reviews of different knives, it could have well been from a different knife. In any case, the more contoured handles seem to be more geared toward heavier duty knives/big choppers/axes, where higher impact is design element of the knife itself. I wonder if that type of handle might seem intimidating or "gimmicky" to the average user (on a smaller fixed blade knife)? Although it would be more comfortable, perhaps people in general prefer to stick with the "common" handle design by default, as they might not have real world experience outside of typical knife use. One of my EDCs is a Benchmade Mini Griptillian. It has a VERY comfortable curved spine for such a smaller blade, but is extremely comfortable in hand. I also think that the "twisting in hand" element is a critical factor in handle design. The GSO 10 handles really seem to force the blade-forward design of the knife. My Ontario Knife Kukri accomplishes the same thing, but through the blade design instead of the handle design. The advancements in understanding of the bio-mechanics of the human body are really starting to present themselves in gear design. Glock is another example, as their Gen 4 models have additional backstraps to adjust for the individual grip of the user. I would love to see something like that incorporated in knife design, although that might be wishful thinking! I suppose that's why I'm always customizing my grips.

P.S. still waiting for my GSO 5.1..
 
Really nice review and comparison and great photos thanks! I have been looking at the 5.1 a lot lately and with the Catt 225Q being one of my all time favorite knives, this really puts it into perspective for me. Thanks for that!
 
mistwalker said:
Really nice review and comparison and great photos thanks! I have been looking at the 5.1 a lot lately and with the Catt 225Q being one of my all time favorite knives, this really puts it into perspective for me. Thanks for that!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comment! I am not so sure about the photos being "great" at least relative to what you provide (I've almost knocked a screen over trying to reach in and grab a knife in one of your photos :p), But I hope that they at least give a sense of the things.

I really enjoy using the Catt225Q and felt blessed at receiving it from my wife's family after her grandfather passed on. It is a piece of history and had been my goto woods knife before I changed the edge on my RMD. I still haven't decided if I prefer the RMD to the GSO-5.1. The steel is one thing, but handle ergos and cutting performance are more important to me. The RMD is generally more comfortable but requires more force to cut than the GSO, and the GSO is by no means uncomfortable. Time will tell...
 
FYI

I finally got my GSO 5.1. I wanted to post a pic showing the ferro notch, but I can't seem to post a pic without using a URL address.

Anyway, the ferro notch is located at the tip end of the gimping, and is almost a "wider" gimp in the series. It works very well, and has just enough radius to engage a large portion of the firesteel.

P.S. The knife/sheath does ride high on the belt. I might contact you regarding your dangler setup from your video. Well done!

thanks
 
SurvivorDan said:
FYI

I finally got my GSO 5.1. I wanted to post a pic showing the ferro notch, but I can't seem to post a pic without using a URL address.

Anyway, the ferro notch is located at the tip end of the gimping, and is almost a "wider" gimp in the series. It works very well, and has just enough radius to engage a large portion of the firesteel.

P.S. The knife/sheath does ride high on the belt. I might contact you regarding your dangler setup from your video. Well done!

thanks
Click to expand...

Open a Photobucket account. Place the picture there. Post the IMG code from the Photobucket picture here using 'cut" and "paste."
 
SurvivorDan said:
FYI

I finally got my GSO 5.1. I wanted to post a pic showing the ferro notch, but I can't seem to post a pic without using a URL address.

Anyway, the ferro notch is located at the tip end of the gimping, and is almost a "wider" gimp in the series. It works very well, and has just enough radius to engage a large portion of the firesteel.

P.S. The knife/sheath does ride high on the belt. I might contact you regarding your dangler setup from your video. Well done!

thanks
Click to expand...

Awesome that yours came in :thumbup:
If you don't have an image-hosting account, feel free to send me some pics and I'll upload them for you via my own account. Do you feel that the ferro-notch restricts your hand positions at all? For example:

IMG_0670.JPG



Regarding the drop-belt or dangler carry, and this goes for anyone, just send me an e-mail. While the G-clip provided with Kiah's system works well for what it is, it doesn't suit my needs and i couldn't find exactly what i wanted elsewhere, so I ordered a few things and made up this design. I've got some extras on hand I can send out asap. The kydex piece works on pretty-much any sheath drilled for a tek-lok, i.e. 3/4" O.C. holes, so it's not exclusive to these sheaths. The sale-thread in my signature includes one without the leg-strap and cord. If these garner enough interest, I'll make a sale-thread on them and order more raw materials. On the other hand, if the few folks who already have them think they suck, they can chime in here.


In other news, Deer-season is upon us (archery anyway) - feel free to post pics in this thread. I certainly will if I am so blessed! And thank you to all for reading/commenting/sharing.
 
I will take a couple pix and try the photobucket thing, as mentioned by Thomas Linton.

The ferro notch doesn't seem to restrict any hand positions. In fact, it almost seems to provide a bit more purchase for the thumb when choking up on the blade, almost a "termination" point for the gimping.

Stand by for a couple of pix..

Thanks

Dan
 
The ferro notch works EXTREMELY well. The radius edge is VERY sharp, and obviously engages much more surface area of the firesteel that a flat surface does. It should be easy to maintain with a rat tail file, but I suspect that it will be a while before the edges need to be touched up. I'm not sure how this option will be incorporated with a coated blade, but I'm sure that Guy will come up with something. I think the notch is in a perfect location, and as I mentioned in the previous post, it does not restrict any hand positions.


DSCN3734_zpsbbcadcfa.jpg
DSCN3731_zpsa3da75ee.jpg
DSCN3739_zps4fb14c53.jpg
DSCN3740_zps53212752.jpg
DSCN3736_zps46a215e7.jpg
chiral.grolim said:
Awesome that yours came in :thumbup:
If you don't have an image-hosting account, feel free to send me some pics and I'll upload them for you via my own account. Do you feel that the ferro-notch restricts your hand positions at all? For example:

IMG_0670.JPG



Regarding the drop-belt or dangler carry, and this goes for anyone, just send me an e-mail. While the G-clip provided with Kiah's system works well for what it is, it doesn't suit my needs and i couldn't find exactly what i wanted elsewhere, so I ordered a few things and made up this design. I've got some extras on hand I can send out asap. The kydex piece works on pretty-much any sheath drilled for a tek-lok, i.e. 3/4" O.C. holes, so it's not exclusive to these sheaths. The sale-thread in my signature includes one without the leg-strap and cord. If these garner enough interest, I'll make a sale-thread on them and order more raw materials. On the other hand, if the few folks who already have them think they suck, they can chime in here.


In other news, Deer-season is upon us (archery anyway) - feel free to post pics in this thread. I certainly will if I am so blessed! And thank you to all for reading/commenting/sharing.
Click to expand...
 
SurvivorDan said:
The ferro notch works EXTREMELY well. The radius edge is VERY sharp, and obviously engages much more surface area of the firesteel that a flat surface does. It should be easy to maintain with a rat tail file, but I suspect that it will be a while before the edges need to be touched up. I'm not sure how this option will be incorporated with a coated blade, but I'm sure that Guy will come up with something. I think the notch is in a perfect location, and as I mentioned in the previous post, it does not restrict any hand positions.

DSCN3734_zpsbbcadcfa.jpg
Click to expand...

:thumbup: Thank you very much for this contribution!! (good images :) )

Regarding the notch on coated blades, should work the same, no? It is ground after coating. Gerber's BG knives have a section of coating ground away for striking a ferro-rod and it works just fine :thumbup:
 
My only concern with the coating and ferro notch was that it might create an area around the notch that might be prone to chipping/peeling, especially when sharpening the notch. But, according to Guy, there is a strong bond between the steel and the coating, so I'm sure that you are right. I've ground some areas on some other coated blades that I have, and those coating areas seemed to chip earlier. I don't believe that it was a tough coating though, more like an industrial enamel.
 
Does anyone have who follows this thread have a coated version of a Survive! knife with a ferro-notch who can weigh in on the coating and the notch application? Thank you in advance...
 
I have FDE coated 5.1.. very smooth... didnt beat up on the knife yet, but I like it..
 
No ferro notch - wish I could test for you guys and gals. FDE coating (Guy said its better than black coating)
15ckqbt.jpg

fwhlrb.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top