Swamp Rat vs Becker?

I prefer sr101 on slicers as it seems to hold an edge better on fibrous materials.

On a chopper, I've not noticed a big difference, other than striking rocks or concrete, INFI does come out a little better.
 
My first was a BK2 and I liked it but by the time I got the Micarta and Leather Sheath for it I had $155 in a Becker and as I added more the more I put into each Knife and then I got a RAT3 and fell in love with the Rats and all the BK's were Safe Queens waiting to be sold.!
Rats won me over in every way from the way they feel to the way they perform and there people are people friendly not like some with Bk*.! Ethan is great and think a lot of him but that is just one man out of a bunch.! Go Rats.*****
 
Gladiator357 said:
My first was a BK2 and I liked it but by the time I got the Micarta and Leather Sheath for it I had $155 in a Becker and as I added more the more I put into each Knife and then I got a RAT3 and fell in love with the Rats and all the BK's were Safe Queens waiting to be sold.!
Rats won me over in every way from the way they feel to the way they perform and there people are people friendly not like some with Bk*.! Ethan is great and think a lot of him but that is just one man out of a bunch.! Go Rats.*****
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RAT-3? Hmm, wrong "rat", that's "Randall's Adventure Training" made by Ontario Knife Company or by what is now ESEE (which calls theirs the ESEE-3). Swamp Rat Knife Company (part of Busse Knife Group) is a different entity entirely, and that's the subforum you posted in.
 
Definitely a friendly bunch in here.

Secondary market value is the reason to buy the Rat. Any Rat. Use it all you want and then sell it for at least as much as you paid but more likely even more. I don't know anything about the Beckers so I don't know if you can do that with a Becker.

Can you get a Camillus Becker warrantied? I thought that company was long gone.

A true knife nut would buy both and then make a decision based on which suits their current needs better.
 
After reading about how the Infi faired in the Noss4 destruction tests I realized it was Busse I really should be looking at. I want a hard use Survival knife (with a capital S) that I can pound the crap out of, hit rocks, pry or whatever else one might call on a piece of steel for and then... be able to sharpen it back to something workable. So...
I have cancelled the Swamp Rat and am now in the process of deciding which Busse to get. I'm looking at the current production model TGLB, SARGE7 or better yet... a Nuclear Meltdown Special Forces Natural Outlaw (on the secondary market). The question is: Do I pay little less for a current production model that isn't quite perfect or pay a premium for a more suitable out of production model.
 
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Honestly, if you beat your knife more than I have beaten my Rat Mastiff, then your simply insane. :p Just saying, I've put my Rat Mastiff through the ringer including chopping with a ceramic floor as a backing, batoning hard wood over rocky ground with many oak batons that I broke over and over. Its even gone through a Girl Scout troop learning woodlore and survived that still in tact. :D

Dont discount the Swamp as a very hard use knife company, I actually prefer them over my INFI. And I have put them all through the ringer.
 
In all honesty, the thing that worries me about the Swamp Rat isn't really durabillity...it's the lack of corrosion resistance. I live in the Pacific Northwest and will take ANY improvement in corrosion resistance I can get. I gather the Infi is a bit better in this regard.
 
You are correct, INFI has a great amount of corrosion resistance. Oddly its not stainless.
 
taiChiFighter said:
In all honesty, the thing that worries me about the Swamp Rat isn't really durabillity...it's the lack of corrosion resistance. I live in the Pacific Northwest and will take ANY improvement in corrosion resistance I can get. I gather the Infi is a bit better in this regard.
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Is it the salt water that is of concern, or just the rain?
 
If you want corrosion resistance look at the scrap max that scrap yard just came out with. Its made of Elmax steel which is a stainless steel and as far as stainless steels go its about as tough as they get.

However with a little bit of care a carbon steel knife wont rust.
 
taiChiFighter said:
In all honesty, the thing that worries me about the Swamp Rat isn't really durabillity...it's the lack of corrosion resistance. I live in the Pacific Northwest and will take ANY improvement in corrosion resistance I can get. I gather the Infi is a bit better in this regard.
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I have knives that look as though they were subjected to a salt water test but when you put them on a stone that edge cleans right up and they go back to cutting. From a user standpoint this is a nonissue that gets way more attention than it deserves. I have also seen rust on INFI althought the SR101 will rust easier if you don't keep the edge or uncoated portions treated.
 
taiChiFighter said:
Just rain. It's wet for months up here.
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I have always wondered if a nice coat of wax or oil in the leather sheath would be enough to prevent oxidation. Maybe an oil impregnated sponge could be built into the kydex that would contact the blade as it passed into or out of the sheath.
 
TNRat said:
I have knives that look as though they were subjected to a salt water test but when you put them on a stone that edge cleans right up and they go back to cutting. From a user standpoint this is a nonissue that gets way more attention than it deserves. I have also seen rust on INFI althought the SR101 will rust easier if you don't keep the edge or uncoated portions treated.
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All I care about is the edge. That's were corrosion is a potential problem.
 
If you use the knife or keep it out of the water when in storage, don't be too worried. SR101 will corrode if left damp, but it will patina first unless subjected to harsher treatment. 1095 is arguably more easily corroded but is common in jungle environments where humidity is higher year-round than the Pacific NW. INFI is certainly more resistant, but it's also a lot more expensive.
 
I live in the PNW as well. I have had zero rust and corrosion issues with 52100/sr101 in heavy field use. In all 4 seasons. It might be an issue if left in salt water without cleaning or left coated in blood without cleaning for days etc. In regular and even very heavy use with the same care most folks would give any blade in use you will have no problems.
 
You might wait for the nmfsh to be released. Its a bigger knife then the nmsfno but is likely to be had cheaper directly from busse new than on the secondary market.
 
Ok, I read thru this thread and think the originator seeks a Busse.
I believe if one wants one, and is able, they should start there.

Reasoning, if it does not work out for you, the Busse will sell quickly and with little to no financial loss.
So, if you start with a Busse, you can always get a Swamp Rat, Becker or even the ESEEs at a later time. I own a few of each of theses, different designs and sizes for different tasks.
 
Becker build a good knife, Scrap Yard and Swamp Yard also built good knives.. I think the latter are more ergonomic and have a better warranty. Now if you were to start making me choose between an ESEE and a Swamp/Yard blade the contest narrows.

Having read most of your threads in the past few days I really do think your over thinking the corrosion issue (having lived and travelled in the tropics I know a little about it) as even the most BASIC of care will nullify the issue on ANY of the Busse range (and most any other quality blade steel) you have been pointed at. An edge can be polished on about anything (rock, belt, cardboard etc) and even in a nasty nasty situation I am sure that you or nature will ably provide a suitable preservative for your steel. Hell even if the edge is corroded this will polish off with use to a better degree and you will of course be carrying some means of sharpening even if it is not a dedicated "knife sharpener".

What I think you need to do mate is spend less time thinking about what is only a part of the equation (corrosion - and generally nullified by common sense and practicality) and go get the knives you are considering IN HAND and see what works for you on that front. With the brands you are considering I think this is probably a more important point.

Let us know what you do.

Andy
 
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