Talonite Good, Bad or Ugly?

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Well said Doc Ron,
Nothing wrong with theory, just tell us thats what it is. If you have some experience with a subject, that is altoghter a different matter. Go and Do always learns more than Sit and Type.

So Doc, tell me, Rob is ugly enough at a knife show....how bad is it after 9 days in the woods?
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Stay Sharp!
Will Fennell
Camillus Cutlery
www.camillusknives.com
 
I have been fan of Rob's desingn since I saw his work for the first time. I do not think that you can get better utility blade. But his knives are quite expensive for me (due to our exchange rate) so I was very happy to learn that Camillus was going to produce one of his designs.

And just for a little more than custom Cetan would cost I bought the Talon. It is my most expensive knife so far (it is almost my monthly net income here). Still I do not regret and I am happy with it.

I (and my girlfriend) use the knife in the kitchen every day (we do not buy the TV dinners and owen-ready food) and it is great on vegetables and meat. I am sure you saw that TV commercial how difficult it is to cut ripe tomatoe, didn't you?? Well this knife would fit into that commercial even better than those flexible, serrated, never need sharpening blades.

And with meat it is even better. I do not hunt, but sometimes we put whole pig on the grill (if you have special term for that I do not know) and we cut pieces of meat as they are done. The talonite knife performs much better than any other I have. And what do I have?? Spyderco kitchen knives (they are great BTW), knives made of ATS-34, ATS-55, CPM 440V, and few knives made of some kind of mystery European steel.

I have had the knife for about 2 months now (I know it is not too long) and it still has the factory edge. It does not shave anymore and looks dull - but keeps cutting (even very soft tomatoes
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).

So if you need good utility-kitchen knife you should try it. And do not tell me it is tooooo expensive for you that you cannot afford it. If I can buy it you can definitely too. And if you do not like it - you can always sell it with a little loss (equal to a few value meals at MD or BK) don't you think so???????
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David

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[This message has been edited by David1967 (edited 07-14-2000).]
 
Hey Will,

Gee, I never thought of Rob as ugly. Even during the last day of the trip... naw. He's sorta like a hairy butt, not ugly just.... not appealing. Sorry Rob!
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I gota say that Rob is one of the best woodsmen I've ever had the pleasure to work with. I could tell from the minute we hit the ground that he had a lot of trail time under his belt and a lifetime of working wilderness skills to boot. He taught us all a lot. I'm looking forward to our next trip together cept' I don't want to put him farther behind in his production.

I'll be editing the video about the trip and I'll get you a copy... You can see the Talonite blades in action.

Ron
 
This post has turned into a pissing match that has gone down hill again. I feel that this is going to happen more and more as the real truth about HYPEMASTERS is told.

This seems to happen when folks with NO real life experience with the steels get involved and stick there noses into a conversation that is none of there business.

Talonite cuts well on some things and not well at others . What the hell cant we all agree on that point. All steels and knife blade materials work this way. THERE IS NO HOLY GRAIL. What is best ? Pick a purpose and just ask a pro. THATS IT

Rob I understnd your frustration with this thread. Im tired of the folks who know what is right before they even have a knife or have ever cut with the steel.

Assumtion makes an a** out of them.

I read spec sheets about what steels are suppose to do all the time. BUT guess what its just a starting point as it is with everything that is in writting about metalurgy.

This banter as I have mentioned in other posts is becoming about who is the biggest TV star not the real facts and real life use of knives. It is a fantasy for some to be MR_POPULAR with the groupies and belivers.
They bitch about hype all the time when the HYPE they talk about is just there guilt showing. It takes your mind off from what they are doing themselves.
Have you ever heard of JIM JONES FOLKS?

If you want real life answers about blades ask a pro dont ask people who assume they know.

There has been much crap spread about knifemakers spreading HYPE about knives recently. Well buy from who you believe.
If what you read is unbeliveable then call several makers and get an opinion. Most are honest and tell the truth. Dont call the followers. Call the pioneers or select certain makers that you can rely on from past experience for honest answers and call them when you have a question. This way you will get the straight skinny on most every steel type and there intended purpose.

Yes the spin doctors want you to think that we as knifemakers just take whatever is new and put it in knives. The knifemakers who do this are followers not pioneers. Follow the pioneers. You cant go to far wrong. Most are very honest and really test and prove out what they know to be real and true about knife steels. We have a rep to uphold.
If thats not enough for ya get referals.
In most cases we just dont use HYPE materials because it does us no good. We prove out steels and then make a decision from there about them and how they fit into our knives and products.

Ask for test results about blade steels from knifemakers not folks who sit in a chair and make decissions that make you doubt what the real facts are. What the hell do they know.... NOTHING ABOUT REAL USE. What do they spread BS, trouble and doubt to make thereselves look like a big shot TV star. Go to a makers shop and grind the blades yourself test them yourself. This will open your eyes about what is real and put this HYPE BS to rest.

P.S. Always choose results from someone who makes knives simular to the style you are thinking of purchasing. This makes a big difference.




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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
 
I'm buying myself a Camilus Talonite Talon and inviting myself along hunting with Will Fennel next year.
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The bottom line remains the same: if you are satisfied with an edge that is a compromise between efficiency and and strength, Talonite can offer you a blade that won't stain and will hold that "field edge" longer than steel.

If you want a really efficient (thin) cutting edge that you won't tear apart (literally) under MODERATE force in certain circumstances, vis-a-vis cutting through thin hard materials, steel is the better choice.

You could grind a CPM420V edge down to .015" and sharpen it at an icluded anglr of 35 degrees, and it will cut like jumpin-gosh-almighty with no worries about tearing the edge off under any circumstances short of absolute intentional destruction. You will probably have to sharpen after 3 or 4 deer, but that has never been a problem for me. The most animals I have had the good fortune to test a knife on were two modest size elk (both cows, but they were tastey). And I always feel compelled to wash a hunting knife afterwards, stainless or otherwise, and usually carry an extra boda-bag of water just for the purpose of rinsing the carcass, my tools, and me.

Or, you could grind a Talonite blade as above, and keep in mind that it isn't indestructible, as I do with my Boye Dendritic Cobalt folder, my favorite pocket knife. Or, you might be happy with a Talonite blade ground to .025" and sharpened at 45 degrees included, which would be strong, but it won't cut quite like jimpin-gosh-ah'mighty. It will likely dress out all 7 or 8 deer that you might get, without sharpening, or any need of cleaning (eeww), on that hunting trip with Will.

The tradeoffs are clear-cut: Talonite offers better wear and stain resistance, and lower impact and tensile strength than steel. What's the big deal?

Where did you say we were gonna' hunt deer next year Will?
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Darrel,

A BZ (Bravo Zulu or well done in navy-speak) to you and your post. Lest others forget, there have to be makers willing to try new materials... what you've aptly termed pioneers. Rob was great to me... willing to try something new, was indefatigable (untiring) in the face of initial problems/disappointments, and brought to the table all his great skills. What was finally wrought exceeded our expectations.

As a knife user, custom knife buyer, and one curious about the viability of the new, I tip my hat to Rob and all you makers who are so willing to work with your clientel to expand the boundries.

It's one of the facets of this knifenut thing that I love so much and again to be redundant without you guys it would never happen. Now that's HYPE I can embrace and endure
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!!!!

Steve,

Another BZ to you! That's one of the better and more succinct synopsis of Talonite versus traditional cutlery steels I've seen written. Dang I wish I had said it as well. Thanks guy!!!

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-=[Bob Allman]=-

I did NOT escape from the institution! They gave me a day pass!

BFC member since the very beginning
Member: American Knife & Tool Institute; Varmint Hunters Association;
National Rifle Association; Praire Thunder Inc.; Rapid City Rifle Club;
Spearfish Rifle & Pistol Club; Buck Collectors Club (prime interest: 532s)
Certified Talonite(r) enthusiast!


[This message has been edited by bald1 (edited 07-14-2000).]
 
Steve,
If you can get yourself to South Carolina, the season runs August 15th - January 1st. No limit,...not even a daily limit! We can 'test' all the knives you want.

BTW, the TALONITE blade the I have the most experice with is my original CETAN that Rob made for me a couple of years ago. He ground the edge to .020" per my request. Its holding up fine, including alot of 'de-boning' deer and hogs. That usually will fail a blade that is prone to chipping or rolling. No problems so far. We grind the production TALON's to .022-5". No complaints yet. I'll have one ground thinner and try it out......god I love this job!
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Stay Sharp!
Will Fennell
Camillus Cutlery
www.camillusknives.com
 
For what its worth.. I think Talonite is an excellent material for its intended purpose.
My customers LOVE it!!.. From what Rob says I am the second maker to make a knife from Talonite, and Bald1 still has that knife in use today..
We had our reservations about this stuff in its infancy BUT that has all been overshadowed by REAL WORLD results, and production refinements..
Some people BALK at the price and THATS fine.. The people willing to pay the premium for Talonite KNOW what the material is, and what its advantages are, as well as its shortcomings..
Why certain people would SAVAGE this material for personal reasons is BEYOND me... Vote with your FARGIN wallet and dont buy the stuff if you dont see the advantage!!..
I admit at first I didnt think people would pay the price, BUT I get plenty of people wanting it and have yet to have anyone unhappy with thier blades.
Funny I dont see people BASHING high-dollar Damascus steels on the basis of cost, AND they can be less than optimal blade material... Just my .02

Take Care
Trace Rinaldi http://www.pe.net/~thrblade/
 
I have been using a friend's talonite knife made by Allen Blade (Tad Pole)and though I like it a lot and know it has a very legitimate place in the knife world I still love steel blades....even ones that rust.

Living in an area that gets well over 100 inches of rain a year you would think my high carbon knives would be having problems. Well, they don't. Tuf-Cloth and TLC take care of that. I do like how I don't have to worry about the talonite blade but I still find myself wanting to wipe it down and so on.

Bottom line; I consider talonite to be an excellent alloy, cuts well, very easy to resharpen has this almost lube-like feeling to it. It does also seem to still want to cut when the bevel gets to feeling dull. It seems to hold a razor sharp edge for about as long as AUS8A though it cuts a heck of a lot longer. I just got a Camillus Cuda Talon in jig bone and Allen is making me a MEUK. I will use them but talonite doesn't win my heart like a high carbon steel knife does. I get real excited about D2 and I even still like.....gasp!.....ATS34 as a stainless steel knife.

As a matter of fact, I think I love nearly all steels that have proven themselves. Talonite is an alloy that is added to the list.

I love KNIVES PERIOD!!

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~Greg Mete~
Kodiak Alaska
 
Ron, no way you can keep me out of the woods with you, you should know that! Also I am glad to hear I wasnt looking pretty to you towards the end of the trip there.
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We got some good feild testing in on the trip, and everyone that reads this should check out the ATAX designed and developed by Ron and Karen Hood at http://www.survival.com

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www.simonichknives.com
 
Bob, I discussed Talonite with DS months ago, and basically asked them why they don't offer age hardening of 6K. They commented that the age hardening that Carbide Processors uses in their opinion does not offer a significant gain which is why they don't use it. Does this sound like the opinion of Carbide Processors? As for Talonite being soft and weak, it is, fact is even Tom Mayo has commented this before :

it is relatively soft-it wont take a hair popping edge and keep it

He has also described how the major source of blunting is by rolling. Rob Simonich has also commented on the low strength before when he noted it was not as strong as ATS-34, and he has also commented in this thread that the weakness is a significant disadvantage in larger knives. Problem is that it has the same effect in smaller knives geometry wise.

Ron :

No where in my post did I say that I was comparing "Big blades"

The point was that the behavior you describe (exceptional edge durability) indicates abilities that would make Talonite a very good big blade, which is in opposition to the comments made in this thread.

Rob, what knife did the fisherman use as a baseline to compare the Talonite one to?

Donovan, what do you mean by an aggressive edge? Is this in regards to "bite" during
slicing? If at what finish did you leave the Talonite blade to get this performance?

E_utopia, there are lots of variables left to float in scientific research as being able to control them is simply impossible. What is important is that you be able to estimate their effect and it must be bounded by the lower level of precision that you want to obtain - as by leaving it free to change you are introducing an uncertainty in your results. If you want specific examples contact me in email and I will provide you with papers and outline the specifics.

You are also overlooking a number of stastical principles when you comment the slices are not identical. That doesn't matter as the mean effect will be very stable and the variation in it can actually be measured if you are interested in it (I was, and it is very small). Same goes for the composition of the material used as blunting stock and the quality of the blade sharpening.

Cougar, Talonite / Stellite etc., are all very wear resistant, tough and ductile. Take the blade I am sending you and one of you better hard steel blades. Cut through some very gritty material (old carpet etc), until both knives are very dull. Now sharpen them both and see which one takes less effort to restore. I would bet highly on the Cobalt one as there should be little material removed whereas the steel one migh very well have fractured along the edge as well as having suffered more extensive wear. However there are steels that are ductile and tough enough to easily handle this as well, INFI for example.

Steve, Talonite has a toughness that is beyond most stainless steels used in blades. I don't know if it is up there with the spring steels, but it is certainly far more impact resistant than ATS-34, VG-10 etc. at about 59-60 RC.

Ron, concerning not wanting a hair popping edge, how come you made no mention of this when you were using Busse Combat's knives, and in fact used the fact that they would stay razor sharp for a very long time as a selling point?

As for high polishes degrading fast, on push cuts they are far more durable than lower polishes. In slicing they are not becuase they don't cut as well, slice for slice they are more durable, but since they get outcut by 5-10 to 1, if you compare equal amounts of work they fall behind.

Rockspyder, all materials blunt much slower after the initial blunting. The more an edge rolls the harder it is to increase the deformation so the rate of blunting is very slow after a decent period of use. As for Talonite vs steel long term, yes quite probably the greater wear resistance of Talonite would make it a winner, however the performance of the edge in that condition would be so low relative to the optimal level that I can't see anyone using it in that state unless they can't sharpen a blade.

Tom you are correct, the numbers I quoted for you are too high, I just checked, you references dozens of animals many times but the largest amount was 48.

-Cliff
 
You're kinda reaching for it Cliff....

"Ron, concerning not wanting a hair popping edge, how come you made no mention of this when you were using Busse Combat's knives, and in fact used the fact that they would stay razor sharp for a very long time as a selling point?"

In case you hadn't noticed I do not sell Busse blades so I wouldn't have much use for your "selling point". I comment on the blades I test and use. It should be obvious even to you that I do not buff away a factory edge. I let it die in the field. If it takes a razor edge and keeps it, that is a credit to the material and the maker.



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Learn Life Extension at:

http://www.survival.com ]
 
Well, no matter what the charts say, I like Talonite and it keeps cutting and cutting and cutting... Like Jimmy Buffett sang, "Don't try to describe the ocean if you've never seen it..."
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Cliff-"bite" is a good description, I guess. I use the coarse sticks on a Spyderco Sharpmaker. It only takes 10 or so passes to restore the edge to what I would call scary sharp. Not like a finely beveled edge, but micro-serrated so that when I lightly pass my thumb over it really grabs. At this stage it doesn't cut paper as well as a more polished blade, but will go through cardboard like a laser. But not for long. On the materials I cut (cardboard, plastic, fibrous plant material) once the initial sharpness is gone it becomes a pretty average cutter. Maybe it would cut like that forever, I don't know. I've never pushed it in that regard because I prefer a "sharp" blade and it's not a problem for me to go home and put an edge back on. This isn't an issue for me, but seems to be contrary to other reports.

Jack
 
So, Donovan... it sounds like you're saying that Talonite is overpriced for its performance? Is that correct?

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iktomi
 
So, Donovan... it sounds like you're saying that Talonite is overpriced for its performance? Is that correct?

Gee, thanks for sugarcoating that for me, Rockspyder.
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Let me put it this way. For my uses, the things that make Talonite a premium priced alloy are not so important. If I was looking for a dive knife or trying to finish quartering an elk on the side of a mountain before dark I'm sure those things would rank a lot higher on my list. As it is, IMO, there are cheaper steels that perform as well or better for my uses. Your mileage may vary.

Jack


 
Donovan,

You've struck at the crux of the issue in your usage. This is the same point my bud Gene Sederholm reported.... he too prefers that wire edge super sharpness.

If you were to continue to use your blade after loosing the wire edge, which you've described as a pretty average cardboard cutter, I think you'll find it continues to cut and cut and cut... As such I don't think your experiences thusfar are at all at odds at what we've been reporting. You and Gene simply prefer to sharpen back to wire edges rather than keep using the "feels somewhat dull but cuts" edge sans wire.

Cliff,

You still here trying? Geez! Like Ron said... keep reaching kid... or better yet, from my salty naval heritage... Hey, whatever floats yer boat bud.

We're not buying your anti-field useage, my tests are all that matters crapola... take it to other threads.

Bob
 
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