Tang pics of the new moras

There's thread in general where the cutaways are posted and I've asked the same question there.

How and under what conditions would a shorter tang cause the knife to fail (break)?

What kind of failure--would it be the blade breaking/tearing out of or the handle?

:confused:
 
KeithAM said:
How and under what conditions would a shorter tang cause the knife to fail (break)?

:confused:
Click to expand...



I can think of two. (1) Hammering it into a tree and hanging from it and (2) hitting it with a three pound sledge hammer. Now where would I get such ideas? :D
 
Guyon said:
I can think of two. (1) Hammering it into a tree and hanging from it and (2) hitting it with a three pound sledge hammer. Now where would I get such ideas? :D
Click to expand...
Actually, Mors Korchanski writes that you should be able to hammer it into a tree and use it as a step. Why this is a good idea is completely beyond me. I have read of one person doing this, having the mora fail catastrophically, then having to be evac'd due to having the bottom of his foot slashed open.

I'm still wondering why you'd need a step in a tree, honestly, that's one that's never occurred to me.

My moras get pretty much only kitchen and garden duty anyway.
 
KeithAM said:
There's thread in general where the cutaways are posted and I've asked the same question there.

How and under what conditions would a shorter tang cause the knife to fail (break)?

What kind of failure--would it be the blade breaking/tearing out of or the handle?

:confused:
Click to expand...

Batoning mostly, when you have your knife deep in a peace of wood, you press your hand against the handle (and if you do than mostly you press against the center and rear side and strike the baton on the tip of the knife, basically what would happen is that the blade lodged in a peace of wood would work as a pivot and since the tip was struck down, the tang is trying to go up, when you press on the handle, that can make another pivot point inside the handle and the handle would crack open, this is less likely the longer the tang is
second breaking may occur when you hammer the knife in a peace of wood and you manage to land your hammer/baton on a side and the handle bounces to the other side. when the blade is deep enough that it is solidly lodged and wouldnt move to the side, the only thing that will move is the handle, and since the lever is so short n the handle it can break open. again this is less likely with longer tang
But dont worry, these will happen with very hard work and pushing the knife to the limit, since the plastic is flexible enough to withstand some stress, but with extensive abuse the material will get fatigued until the point it cant withstand the stress and it breaks.
 
Thanatophagous said:
But dont worry, these will happen with very hard work and pushing the knife to the limit, since the plastic is flexible enough to withstand some stress, but with extensive abuse the material will get fatigued until the point it cant withstand the stress and it breaks.
Click to expand...

That sound like my life. ;)
 
sodak said:
Actually, Mors Korchanski writes that you should be able to hammer it into a tree and use it as a step. Why this is a good idea is completely beyond me. I have read of one person doing this, having the mora fail catastrophically, then having to be evac'd due to having the bottom of his foot slashed open.

I'm still wondering why you'd need a step in a tree, honestly, that's one that's never occurred to me.

My moras get pretty much only kitchen and garden duty anyway.
Click to expand...

Ha! I got the idea from Cliff Stamp. Shows how much I know. :D

And just because this old and well-known x-ray hasn't been posted in this thread...

2a98cah.jpg



Edit (months later): Finally got around to putting some text over the picture in the original post. Here it is for posterity...

Morahalfgrinds.jpg
 
Last edited:
RescueRiley said:
I recently got an email from the folks at Mora of Sweden with a picture of the tangs on some of there new models, Thought you folks might beinterested
1) the bushcraft triflex, (same tang as the clipper, and craftsman)
2) all around top Q (same tang as the High q, the 511, and 711)
3 next is the bushcraft force (same tang as the mora 2000 and the other bushcrafters)
4) the chisel

THought it was cool..Hope my fellow mora nerds will enjoy
uppsgadeknivar.jpg
Click to expand...

Is it just me or are there some pretty serious voids in the plastic in all those handles?
 
I'm wondering if these are some from quality control checks on the plastic moldings, or QC rejects, something of the sort.

If that is normal that is very much not good, at least to my eye.
 
rocketbomb said:
Is it just me or are there some pretty serious voids in the plastic in all those handles?
Click to expand...
I see one in the top blade, but the others appear to be just the marks from the saw. Unless I'm wrong. Which happens all the time. :D
 
Cool pics. I love bigger/sturdier knives too, but these type of knives are still the best $10 or so you can spend in the kitchen, woods, etc.
 
Even with the voids you can still baton wood with those Mora 2000s and the 2010s. That pretty much makes it a moot point, IMO.

It's a $30 + shipping knife that you can beat the crud out of in realio-dealio survival situations and it will keep on asking for more. You spend three times that or more, then you are in a good position to start whinging about the potential of some air pockets in the handle.

I love how people will look at a well-proven hard-use $30 bushcraft knife and start knocking it down because the QC isn't as high as a Busse. Duh?!? :jerkit:
 
I've used a Clipper (the shortest tang model at the top of the cutaway pics) in conjunction with a hammer to chisel out big notches in the joists of a treehouse I built a couple of years ago. I pounded on the pommel and the blade for a couple of days with a steel framing hammer, and have since used the knife in all manner of 'survival' applications, and it still performs as it did when new. The new all-arounds are even tougher, and have proved themselves to me thoroughly over several multiday primitive trips this summer. These knives can take it, and have proved to me how pointless it is to worry too much about how long/big a knife's tang is.
 
Guyon said:
Ha! I got the idea from Cliff Stamp. Shows how much I know. :D

And just because this old and well-known x-ray hasn't been posted in this thread...

Edit (months later): Finally got around to putting some text over the picture in the original post. Here it is for posterity...

Morahalfgrinds.jpg
Click to expand...

see : http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9367484&postcount=53

the one you have labeled as bushcraft force is a bushcraft FOREST, which is similar to the SIGNAL, and the MORA 2000 and esp the MORA 2010...

the top model is The Bushcraft Force and The Bushcraft Triflex

as a matter of information, ragnar's SwedishKnifeCatalog lists these clearly

i have a bushcraft force, and the blade noticeably MAKES CREAKING SOUNDS/NOISE and flexes some with mild side to side force. it's a piece of SHIT, imho, and i would send it back to mora for a 2000 or a 2010 in a heartbeat, if i could do so without cost. a $25 knife is just not going to be worth that kind of salvage i think (unless they pay for it). maybe $5 shipping. maybe. it's designated as a disposable knife for the moment. CANNOT RECOMMEND ANYONE BUY.
 
Thread necromancy! Sort of... :p
Bladite, I am using RescueRiley's labels in the OP.
Are you indicating he got it wrong?
 
I'm discerning an echo on BFC. :D
Once I'm certain about labels, I'll redo the pic's text if needed.
Thanks for the heads up.
Time being, I'm just going to delete the link at Photobucket so bad info doesn't get out into the Interwebz.
 
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