The $40 fighting utility folder - some surprises...

Jim March

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Oct 7, 1998
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So I was at a gun show yesterday, shopping for a gift knife for my roommate.

Raymond isn't a "tactical sort" - he's on the small side, and despite doing high-end car audio installations on-site in nasty areas, he's never worried about defense.

So the goal was to get him a modest little folder that he'd be likely to carry, that would be good at general moderate use with a bit of abuse, and could fight in a pinch.

With a budget in the $40 - $50 range.

I thought I was going to buy a CRKT, probably a point guard but maybe a KFF. The Point Guard was going for between $37 and $40. But in shopping around a particularly well-equipped table, I came across the Spyderco Wayne Goddard lightweight model, priced at $45.

Guess what? It's a better deal.
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(from the Spydie website at: http://www.spyderco.com/displayproduct.cfm?typeid=68 )

First, the lock is stronger than the CRKT system *without* the safety engaged; once you flip the safety, the CRKTs pull equal or maybe slightly ahead but in a high-speed mess, you might not have time to think about the safety. And without the safety, that's a lousy lock.

Second, ATS55 is far better steel than AUS6...under daily use, it's far more likely that the edge will still be there if he really needs it.

Third, the Goddard grip ergonomics are better for combat use than the Point Guard. Not quite at the KFF's level but the Goddard isn't half bad either - the grip shape prevents a "slip-up" accident on a hard target stab.

The only place the Goddard falls behind is in opening smoothness. Out of four the dealer had (two plain, two combo-edge) only one plainedge felt really good on the open stroke. The other three had slight gritty-ness towards the last inch or so of blade opening stroke. That grittyness would probably have faded fairly soon but I got Raymond that one dead-smooth plainedge.

In comparison to the KFF, the Goddard "didn't look too tactical" - Raymond will be able to open boxes or whatever right near a customer without a guaranteed freakout reaction.

One more advantage to the Spydie: the grip shape gives it a functional 3/4ths inch or so reach increase...so you've got slashing reach equal to a 4" or better blade. This is one time when a particularly large grip to blade length ratio actually pays off.

Upshot: good steel, good design, an adequate lock and basic technology proven in the Delica/Endura series pays off over top ergos, gimicky locks and bad steel. Even if what you want is a "pure combat monster", that two-stage lock on the CRKTs is more likely to get you killed than a basic proven design is...

We need to re-think support of the CRKTs, until they switch to a real lock and/or improve the steel to at least AUS8.

Jim
 
That Spydie has (at first sight) two negative points for me:
- it's lockback, not linerlock
- blade is half serrated (I like it serrated or plian, but not half-both)

And overall I've got enough Spydercos...

...and I'm missing my morning cup of coffee...
...I'm not in the best mood this morning...
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... lack of caffeine, I quess ...
 
Originally posted by tuhkis:
plian, but not half-both)

And now I even get mixed up with keys. It was not a new blade type; I obviously ment "plain".

 
The one I actually bought was a zero-serration model. They're definately available.

I don't think I'm alone in trusting lockbacks over low-end linerlocks. Sure, some CRKTs and Gerbers add a secondary safety catch but I question whether or not you'll be able to deal with that in a high-speed mess.

Bram's fondness for the basic Endura/Delica series makes sense, except the Goddard is better than either.

Overall, I'm not a Spyderco "fanatic" but this particular model made sense for the price range and mission.

Jim
 
Originally posted by Jim March:
I don't think I'm alone in trusting lockbacks over low-end linerlocks.
No, you're not.
Sure, some CRKTs and Gerbers add a secondary safety catch but I question whether or not you'll be able to deal with that in a high-speed mess.
Another example is my Schrade Lake & Walker, where you might even disable the lock with the safety when you close it. (Not that it seems to be at all intended for high-speed messes.)



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I don't think I'm alone in trusting lockbacks over low-end linerlocks.
Jim[/B]

True - you are not alone. I belong into that company too.
I've got lockback knives and they belong into my favourite blades -class.
But I'm also a linerlock fan and don't buy knives with crap (liner)locks
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Well there's two possible problems with any linerlock. One, that it might be "inherently crap" and mechanically fail, or it might be set up where white-knuckling the grip could accidently release it.

Many otherwise fine linerlocks fail this second test. The Spyderco Military, for one.

The CRKT linerlocks are true crap *until* you engage the safety. Then they're pretty damn good. The problem is, given the suddenness of a street knife fight, I'm starting to think a "second manual operation" is even crazier than packing a folder in the first place
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.

On another note, the Goddard comes with a pretty good clip that's reversable left/right, but overall it's still locked into tip-up carry. While tip-up has it's good points, it also risks accidental hand damage if it opens slightly and then you go digging around for your keys, coins or whatever.

Now, us "knife knuts" have no problem dedicating the front strong-side pocket to a fighter/utility knife, but we're NOT normal
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. A guy like Raymond probably won't do that.

So I used the ability to switch the clip sides to set it up so that in the front right pocket, the blade spine is *forward*. If you dig your hand down past it, you slide along the Zytel, not the steel. The opening stroke is then initially into a reverse grip, by doing a "thumb pinch" on the pommel reaching in from the rear, and snapping it open to a reverse without touching the blade.

That's what I taught Raymond, and he mastered it quickly. I'm convinced that with a bit more practice, he'll have fast reliable opens with better safety than the standard "initial open in forward grip" as expected with the normal clip position.

Jim
 
I was looking for a knife to get my brother before he went to Bolivia for the Peace Corps, and this is the knife I chose, and he loves it. Light, strong, good handle, good blade shape, good steel (I shaved a goatskin to make a drumhead and it could still shave my arm!), doesn't look scary, a great working knife. Only issue with lightweight spydercos is that they will not stand for much side-to-side torque between the handle and blade, that zytel loosens right up. But otherwise a very very fine knife (I think I got mine on the forums for $35!).
 
I would trust Spyderco's lockbacks.I bought 2 Enduras and a Goddard for friends and their excellent budget buys for utility and defense.I have a CRKT M16-04 and I don't trust that thin liner lock.I have nothing against liner locks,my carry knife now it a DC Monroe Chimera.I think its a standard which liner locks should be made.
 
[qoute]On another note, the Goddard comes with a pretty good clip that's reversable left/right, but overall it's still locked into tip-up carry. While tip-up has it's good points, it also risks accidental hand damage if it opens slightly and then you go digging around for your keys, coins or whatever.[/quote]

Ah, but the lock-back configuration makes accidental in-pocket opening very unlikely, since the spring tends to keep the blade in the closed position. Your friend would have to fall off one heck of a horse to have the Goddard open up in his pocket, even with tip-up carry.

By the way, I have a Goddard too, and I really like it. Really easy to deploy, with or without the thumb hole.

David Rock

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AKTI Member # A000846
Stop when you get to bone.
 
I agree with the point about unintentional opening - a Spyderco lockback absolutely will not fall open in your pocket.

Jim, I had a hard time figuring out your pocket description - then it occurred to me - you probably put the knife in the front of the pocket. My knives always ride towards the back of my front pocket, so the blade is against the side of my pocket, and the clip is almost up against the pocket seam that runs down the side of your leg. Seems to me the most covert, - the clip is almost invisible, and no pocket bulge, and keeps it out of the way if you need the pocket (I don't put anything in the pocket with my knives). The draw is to put your thumb in the pocket and index finger on the clip. On Spydrs, you would present with your thumb practically in the hole already. Very natural.
 
If we're criticizing the time it takes to deploy the safety of a CRKT (or Gerber) LAWKS in a critical situation, how about criticizing the uncertainty of doing a "snap opening" on a lockback, over a liner-lock?

The backspring on a well-made, secure lockback gives a resistance against the opening action.

I find there is typically less resistance on a liner-lock opening since there is no opposing force of a backspring. This makes engaging the liner-lock, whether using a thumbstud opening or snap opening, more certain.

A fight or assault can occur without warning. Often times you are exchanging blows at close range and do not have the benefit of having a lot of time or leverage to open a knife. You may be so focussed (or freaked out) during the fight that you won't be hear the "click" of your knife snap into place. Therefore, if there is a trade-off, I'd sooner go with the more certain deployment of a liner-lock, than a lockback.

As for engaging the safety. If you practice opening the LAWKS knives enough times, you will become conditioned to engage the safety. Your thumb will automatically trip the safety as you grip the knife.

 
FTC: I'd agree more if the Goddard wasn't so smooth - or rather, this hand-picked specimen in question is.

The first thing that happens in a fight is that your fine motor control goes south. It's normal. That's why there's a strong movement in the gun crowd to go with a DA trigger for every stroke and no safety lever, which is how Glocks are set up.

The old 1911s in cocked'n'locked require a separate thumb stroke to disengage a safety. But those safeties are one hell of a lot bigger than a LAWKS lever.

I dunno. I can certainly see an argument that it's better than a plain low-end linerlock like the M16...that's even worse.

The big news to me is that in the KFF's price range, there ARE alternatives. And beyond this lock discussion, the steel quality is a whole 'nuther matter...AUS6 sucks. See also the post I did on Practical Tactical...

Jim
 
Jim,

I admit I was generalizing lockbacks, and liners.

I can't honestly critique the Goddard lockback as I haven't handled one. If the opening is as quick as a good liner-lock -- and I trust your opinion -- I have no problems with it.

I do have problems -- as you probably do -- with most Zytel handeled lockbacks due to the aforementioned stiff backsprings. Great for secure lock-ups, but sucks for quick and sure openings required for a self-defense knife.

As for the steel. I think we're unanimous in agreeing that the ATS-55 is much more desireable for the money than AUS-6. However, the steel composition is not as much of a concern for me than a quick and sure opening for a self-defense knife. ATS-55 would be a great bonus though!

[This message has been edited by Full Tang Clan (edited 10-09-2000).]
 
Originally posted by Full Tang Clan:
If we're criticizing the time it takes to deploy the safety of a CRKT (or Gerber) LAWKS in a critical situation, how about criticizing the uncertainty of doing a "snap opening" on a lockback, over a liner-lock?

For that matter, we can debate the advisability of doing a "snap opening" under high-stress conditions at all. I've seen people who were perfectly relaxed end up throwing their knives across the room. A guy who was under super high stress, an adrenaline rush, and had lost minor muscle control -- that's exactly the guy who should not be doing snap openings, if by that you mean inertia opening by snapping the wrist only. For stressful conditions, I consider snap opening somewhere beneath, say, an uncontrolled "double-tap" with a pistol. I do controlled or dedicated pairs, and I open my knife under control. I know there's no agreement on this issue,but that's where I come down.

A big hole (like the Spyderco), and a lock that isn't likely to be accidently released (like the Spyderco) and doesn't need a small safety on it, is the way to go, IMO.

Joe
 
Originally posted by Jim March:
First, the lock is stronger than the CRKT system *without* the safety engaged; once you flip the safety, the CRKTs pull equal or maybe slightly ahead but in a high-speed mess, you might not have time to think about the safety. And without the safety, that's a lousy lock.

Upshot: good steel, good design, an adequate lock and basic technology proven in the Delica/Endura series pays off over top ergos, gimicky locks and bad steel. Even if what you want is a "pure combat monster", that two-stage lock on the CRKTs is more likely to get you killed than a basic proven design is...

We need to re-think support of the CRKTs, until they switch to a real lock and/or improve the steel to at least AUS8.

Jim

I agree that you have some valid points about the advantage of the Goddard over the KFF such as better steel and is less intimidating to others. However, I disagree about most of your other points. First off, I personally don't trust lockbacks with zytel. Why? Because, it simply feels flimpsy and hollow. With the KFF, I am more confident with is because it has dual steel liners and gives it a more solid feel. Also, in general, lockbacks are not considered the strongest and in most cases well made liner locks are stronger than them.

Secondly, I don't quite understand why the KFF's liner lock is a lousy lock. I don't find it to be offcentered, shallow, or thin. I believe the lock will do just fine in a combat situation without the lawks.

Finally, I don't see why the lawks would be likely to get you killed. Too difficult to engage? Then don't engage it. The lawks is simply a backup to the lock and is completely unneccessary.

CRKT switch to a real lock? What type of lock did you have in mind? A lockback? Integral? Axis? You also need to remember the intention of the design: Self defense. If its used like its purpose is, then you really don't need a high grade steel as long as its sharp for the first incident. After that, the knife will most likely be confiscated. Also you must remember that CRKT is aimed towards the lower priced market and according to its purpose, is almost perfect IMO.


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Dave
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My collection
 
I think we can all go to our neutral corners now!

It seems like "it's a matter of opinion".

Unfortunately, each type of lock -- and knife for that matter -- has pros and cons.

One person's PRO, is another's CON. I dislike lockbacks for self-defense which is why I stopped carrying my SOG Magnadot. A good, low-cost lockback but the backspring made the action too slow and uncertain. Spyderco Goddard excepted.

Joe,

Just because you've seen people accidentally throw their knives across the room doesn't mean you shouldn't do snap-openings. The chance of accidentally throwing your knife increases with the harder you have to flick it. That's my whole point: it's better to have less resistance in the opening action than those found on a typical lockback. In fact, I have one of my liner-locks tweaked to the point that it will flick open with a slight thumb nudge while blade tension, and safe closure is maintained.

In addition, I don't know about snap openings being analogous to double-tapping a trigger. We're not talking about IPSC shooting competition here. We're talking about a fight for your life. Hell, I'll set it to 3-rnd bursts, or full-auto if I have to!
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Besides, I don't believe a snap-opening is necessarily a desperation move, or uncontrolled. On the contrary. To me it is analogous to iaido -- the art of drawing the sword -- in Japanese kenjutsu. This must be carried out with focussed control, speed, and certainty.



[This message has been edited by Full Tang Clan (edited 10-10-2000).]
 
Jim,

Good to hear you ran into the Goddard.

I have loved this model since the day I saw it fully serrated in Micarta.

But now, with the reersible clip, plain blade and soon a stronger clip well. Most excellent.

This is the only knife where I own two.

I love the Goddard.

Now if they only would offer it in the Jr.....

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David2584, good points. One note about your question, to paraphrase:"why is it not a good lock, it's not off-center or thin". Not speaking for Jim, my impression with this particular knife's lock is that too many people have been reporting that it accidently releases with spine pressure (either a whack or palm on the spine). Between rec.knives and all the various forums, I'd say it's over 50% who see failures, which means the little LAWK is more of a necessity than a mere extra safety as intended.

Joe
 
The Goddard ltwt is a great knife. Great for utility as well as being well suited for defense. I have recommended it to several of my friends as their duty knife. Some carry two, one on each side.
It is also inexpensive enough to grind down to use as a trainer. I haven't had a problem with the lock failing on it yet while using it on a training dummy. Maybe I've been lucky.
While I like the CRKT KFF, I would still choose the Goddard if I had to pick only one. It is easier to carry and performs daily tasks better than the KFF. It will also perform very well in a defensive role if it is necessary to do so IMO.
 
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