The "Ask Nathan a Question" Thread

JJ_Colt45 said:
This is a helpful post that you can look up most model and material information in.

AR-Trvlr

Thread 'CPK Encyclopedia'

CPK Encyclopedia
Basic Field Knife
BC – Behemoth Chopper
Behemother
Boot Dagger
Competition Chopper
DEK1
DEK2
DEK3
Double-Edge Fighter
EDC / EDC1 – Every-Day Carry
EDC2
EDC3
Fireman's Knife (AKA Sharpened Pry Bar)
FK – Field Knife
FK2 – Field Knife 2 (AKA UFK)
HC – Heavy Chopper
HDFK – Heavy Duty Field Knife
HDMC - Heavy Duty Medium Chopper
Integral Dagger
Kephart
Kitchen Utility Vegetable Knife / Potato Knife
K18 / KOD...
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more specifically below is the scale material info ...

AR-Trvlr

Post in thread 'CPK Encyclopedia'

Scale Materials

Question re: rubber-insert scales for the choppers produced the following quote from Nathan the Machinist:
First I had to gain about 20 pounds because my old normal ass was too small for the amount of pain-in-the-ass. A full thickness sheet of micarta is skeletonized into a liner with bosses for the fasteners (can't clamp across rubber) and also solid at the front (can't kydex sheath rubber). This is run with the mounting holes complete. A rubber sheet is bonded to a standard liner to make it machinable. This is a sacrificial liner that gets cut away later. It's...
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Legend!
 
Jacob.s55 said:
Legend!
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Here is the post I was trying to recall that shows both.
Cwilliams563 said:
Top to bottom
-Buffed VIP Micarta on the Basic 5 CW
-Buffed Crusty Vintage International Paper Micarta on the FK3 from the Pre-order
-Buffed Burlap on the Reaper (I have a feeling it’s extra buffed if that’s a thing, since it’s pretty shiny and the burlap’s pretty detailed)
-Un Buffed Burlap on the DEF 2. I did polish it some with Johnsons paste wax and oiled them. The color and details came out much better after

apjJqCL.jpg

Vri7GDH.jpg

kbDw6Ne.jpg
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Jacob.s55 said:
Any one could show some pictures of:
Vintage micarta (International Paper)
vs
Crusty Vintage micarta (International Paper)
Thanks!
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Keep in mind with either of these options there is a lot of variety in color tone. I have some that are more of a dark brown and some that are more of a peanut butter color. Generally, the “crusty” version tends to be more on the brown side and/or some darker and lighter areas for a little visual interest. They are all beautiful scales and the material is extremely high quality, they just aren’t as consistent in color as some of the standard micarta options if that’s important to you.
 
KnifeVice said:
Keep in mind with either of these options there is a lot of variety in color tone. I have some that are more of a dark brown and some that are more of a peanut butter color. Generally, the “crusty” version tends to be more on the brown side and/or some darker and lighter areas for a little visual interest. They are all beautiful scales and the material is extremely high quality, they just aren’t as consistent in color as some of the standard micarta options if that’s important to you.
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And they will ALL darken over time, they will NOT look like when you first get them.

Exposed to O2 and sunlight, it will change.

It’s a natural process, it just happens
 
Cap’n Smudge said:
More specifically - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/field-knives-etc-tweaked-delta-3v-magnacut-cruwear.2060225/
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J Jacob.s55 if you want a BFK, make sure you comment in the thread Cap’n Smudge linked while there are still spots available.

Nathan the Machinist

Thread 'SOLD, Field Knives etc. Tweaked Delta 3V, Magnacut, Cruwear'

I want to warn people, there are scammers on the internet now so you need to beware.

We don't send paypal invoices anymore. Our Swipe (SwipeSimple) invoice will come from AIM Industrial. If it's somebody else, it's not us.


Today we have Signature Field Knives in tweaked Delta 3V, Magnacut and Cruwear
We also have Basic Field Knives in tweaked Delta 3V, Magnacut and Cruwear

Also one Fat Bastard Field Knife available today for $500. Still ironing out the final bugs on these. Might not ship immediately.


This new tweaked Delta 3V is not an improvement. It's not even very much...
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Each sale has so many knives available (usually 20), and your post number determines if you made the cut.

If you post “in” or anything at all actually, and you are within 20 posts, then CPK will reach out to you and ask what knife you’d like to buy. Also, sometimes people pass on their spot so even if you are post 22 or 25 you might still end up with a knife.

You have some time after you post to figure out if you want the BFK or upgraded FK3 (FK3 is $115 extra and has a skeletonized tang and added swedge for ~1oz lighter weight, along with excellent thumb jimping and chamfering of edges), and then which steel and scale materials/fasteners.

But if you for sure want a CPK field knife, post first and you can sort out the rest after.
 
Hey Nathan, will having a D3V UF2 cerakoted, at approximately 300 degrees F for one hour, adversely affect the Delta 3V protocol ? I plan on having one camo’d up for WW III. 😎

Thank you,

Michael
 
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I liked "Dances With Wolves" more. (It's about as accurate as "Tombstone" but, also quite enjoyable IMHO.)

Your question makes my heart soar like a hawk. ☺️

ETA: I thought we were in "Random"...sorry for answering as I am clearly not Nathan.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
"The katana! It's the ultimate sword!*

(*In feudal Japan)


The rapier.

Long and fast. I think it's the ultimate evolution of the sword. The only good way to realistically survive a sword fight against an opponent with a rapier is to also have a rapier.

Or a Glock

"Oh, if I were going against somebody with a rapier I would bring XYZ sword, it's so big he would not be able to parry it"

If your sword is heavy enough that a rapier can't stop it, it's heavy enough he can simply step out of the way but he will stab you in the brain, poke out both your eyes, and slit your throat before you ever got close to him regardless and you can't really effectively dodge a thrust from a rapier.

I know, before you fencing enthusiasts can say it, I am aware that there are better tools for combat sport. But, I think in real combat, going up against a real rapier with anything other than a rapier is suicidal.
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I suddenly remembered that take, and in my own thoughts, I ended up agreeing with it too.

But here's another crazy idea:

Two guys who are roughly equal in skill—not super experts, but people who know how to handle blades and understand how to strike properly.

Any duel scenario only works as long as we assume it's going to be fair and that both sides are genuinely fighting to the death.

But remembering Miyamoto Musashi's duels—you know how he won most of them, right? He just practiced throwing his sword into trees in the forest.

And he won by simply throwing the blade and killing opponents who never expected that at all.

So imagine: one guy has a rapier, the other has a K18, and he throws it like in that video you mentioned, where the huge guy who literally looks like a Viking hurls that blade.

And I'm thinking—even the best fencer against a guy who has enough strength and guts to risk throwing a K18 at him 🤔

The blade is sharpened on both sides, so basically, even if you throw it poorly, there's a huge chance you'll still inflict a very serious wound on the opponent.

I'm absolutely convinced that in real life—not in sport fencing—a fight would almost never go the way we imagine it, because with 100% certainty it would be completely unfair/dishonest.

Vikings mostly just threw axes or something heavy.

I'm totally sure that in the Middle Ages, a real sword duel with proper fencing was extremely rare; it would mostly turn into grappling, and then just trying to strip the armor off the opponent.

And if it's a duel without armor, I'd pick the K18 and throw it at a highly experienced fencer with a rapier.

Yeah, it's reckless, but basically, I have no chance anyway.
Essentially, the K18 that I throw at an experienced fencer is like a Glock, only way bigger, and it complies with the "cold weapon only" rules in a duel 🙄


 
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