The Buck 100 Series Appreciation/Photo Thread

Yes TAH on the handle too. I was turned onto FLITZ back in the mid 80's by a guy who builds customs guitars for his friends like STEVE VAI.....he said its not only great for metals but its a [finite] polish that can be used on almost anything.....even wood thats laquered like high end guitars to remove light scratches....
 
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Thanks Mule. I use Flitz, but I have never used it on Phenolic. Didn't know what the outcome would be.
 
He uses FLTIZ even on antique MARTIN guitars to remove scratches and pick guards.....synthetics should be no problem. Those Phenolic handles are pretty tough....gee for a decade or so I used car products on them...LOL
 
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Here are a few of my favorite pictures and favorite knives. I've had a lot of interesting knives in my life. The twin set belonged to a friend.






 
Great knives, unbelievable variety. Love the horizontal scaler and the skinner. Thanks for the pics.
 
wow all beauties.....last pix, not ugly sister out of the bunch. LOL I can imagine how many years to get all of them.

Nice! 103 with the 3 micarta spacers on the at the pommel. I Didn't realize there was such a animal.....Thanks for sharing those gems.....
 
wow all beauties.....last pix, not ugly sister out of the bunch. LOL I can imagine how many years to get all of them.

Nice! 103 with the 3 micarta spacers on the at the pommel. I Didn't realize there was such a animal.....Thanks for sharing those gems.....

The purpose of the spacers in the beginning was to insure that the handle was long enough ( not for making the knife look nice) and that everything screwed together, and line up properly. Barrel nut knives are threaded on the end of the tang. If you miss cut the handle material the barrel nut will bottom out and the handle will still be loose. Instead of re-cutting the handle material they would just add another spacer. They are out there but few and far between.
 
That was some really good stuff there! about PROCESS & ASSEMBLY & HISTORY of putting them together thank you!

[Spacers] Its Not a one of kind, but few & far between to me thats mean RARE and of course worth more....nice!

The Knife assembly Process reminds me of putting together a Bike transmission with THRUST WASHERS to make sure it has the right amount of play etc...or trying to find the right gear [match] in a rear end of classic 70's Chevelle LOL You have try few to find the right one for the right mesh. The factory does the same thing when assembling rear ends.

All great knives....thanks for the Info an sharing the photos.
 
I bought this one off the "bay" last year. I cleaned it up and got the chips out of the blade but still cant get a good edge on it.

 
My search for a early 1970's BUCK 100? that I got in late 70's I do believe I found it...LOL

BUCK 105 U.S.A Fixed Blade.
9 1/2" with 4 1/8" belonging to the handle.





On the flip side.......Notice the brown ring inside the Sheath Loop I love re-purposing things its a old TIN FOIL roll....and I slice it with a ex-acto in little rings to keep the Sheath loop in nice shape!
so it does not flatten out up against the back compartment of the sheath. which help causes cracking of the leather. Tin Foil ones work best they are denser! thicker & strong where any other like clear wrap is weak and collapses.
 
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mbjannusch,

Wonderful collection. Tell me about the knife in the 5th photo.

Mule,

I love that vintage of the 105. Just a beautiful knife to look at, handle and use. :thumbup:
 
This one I will be using! LOL for fishing etc...I was going after a inverted but decided this would work an it looks just about the right condition for when I had one....and what it might have looked like today.......Good enough! I'm very happy! thank you all for the help in trying to figure out what model I had. Much Appreciated! to all....
 
khunt, I have that same 119. A 1980 model. It has a thick blade toward the edge. Just the way they were done. Try using a Norton India stone and mark the edge bevel use a black marker. Then give it a few passes and see if the angle is going all the way to the edge. The steel could be 440C, a steel that resists grinding. Good luck, DM
 
Great advice DM,

The worse thing is if the knife hasn't been broken in correctly in the first place in regarding to the old 440c like the instructions with the knife or HONEMASTER instructions tell you do. It can take you awhile to get it right, when the burr shows up an before you change the motion direction from circle to swiping the stone. I get allot of old ones that are not sharpened with the convex bevel grind an it looks like they put it through a kitchen sharpener or those new belt sharpeners a V-GRIND bevel.

sorry for the quality on the BUCK instructions I just chose to scan it.






 
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mbjannusch,

Wonderful collection. Tell me about the knife in the 5th photo.

Mule,

I love that vintage of the 105. Just a beautiful knife to look at, handle and use. :thumbup:

The fifth picture is a first model horizontal stamp 121 with a fish scaler. It was first made in 1964, and came with the sheath in the photo. Its the only knife that ever came with a double collar strap keeper. The 121 had more changes than most knives. From 1964-1985 there was the horizontal stamp (1964 only) It was changed because the placement of the stamp weakened the spine of the knife and would fracture. 1965-67 had the regular single stamp across the tang. 1967 had the buck* stamp on the tang. 1967-1969 BUCK USA stamp ( fiber spacers), 1969-1971 BUCK USA ( Micarta spacers), 1972-1983 BUCK 121 USA ( 4 micarta spacers) then the count down in the spacers caught up with the rest of the 100 series. Great and fascinating knife... The 121 horizontal stamp is Super hard to find
 
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Thank you for the detailed explanation. Very interesting and one of the best 100s I've ever seen - knife and sheath.
 
Thanks Mule. I use Flitz, but I have never used it on Phenolic. Didn't know what the outcome would be.

I've used light sandpaper to get out the heavy and buffing compound to remove the light scratches with a buffing wheel. It makes them look brand new.
 
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