The CPK LC getting it done (Picture heavy)

It's more of a pain in the arse, but I would remove the scales and put the lanyard on the pummel's end ;)
 
Forward lanyard is safer than rear. IMO, the lanyard is for the safety of those around you more than anything else.

The use of lanyard by Bladesports is pretty effective. There is a twist and it goes over the top of your hand. You can let go of the knife and it will hang there in your grip.
 
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I will just add I am NOT a fan of Lanyards! Just my opinion, heard a guy state once a chopper is not a surf board! If you're tired take a break, if your sweating wipe your hands off! If you are swinging so hard you cannot maintain a grip, you are swinging too hard! Let the Steel do the work! Plus I have seen lanyards get hung up in heavy Bush:eek:
 
Also TRfromMT TRfromMT that bit of love you left on it will make it easier to use since you already got some use on it. Now you'll beat it like it wants to be beaten!
 
Also, let the grip do the work. For hard work hold it towards the rear of the grip. It's fatter and will fill your hand which will reduce forearm fatigue. The butt will keep it from sliding out, a death grip is not required. Also, use the sweet spot which is directly behind the center of percussion. The CP is at the end of the fuller. Strike behind that and the impulse will drive the grip into your hand. Hits here bite deep and keep the LC well controlled.
 
Thanks for posting this! Posts of real world use with photos are the best kind of posts. It's a story, entertainment, and education all in one nice package.

Not that I think it needs it, but out of curiousity, does Nathan offer any kind of blade restoration service? Curious what the cost would be for him to grind that out like new. I can't imagine he would have the time though...
 
Not that I think it needs it, but out of curiousity, does Nathan offer any kind of blade restoration service? Curious what the cost would be for him to grind that out like new. I can't imagine he would have the time though...

Sure we do. D3V is sensitive to excessive heat from grinding and should only be ground wet. If there is significant damage it should be returned here for safe rework. Just include 10 bucks in the box to cover return postage and we'll take care of you. Contact Jo.
 
Sure we do. D3V is sensitive to excessive heat from grinding and should only be ground wet. If there is significant damage it should be returned here for safe rework. Just include 10 bucks in the box to cover return postage and we'll take care of you. Contact Jo.
Doesn't get much easier than that!:thumbsup::D
 
Sure we do. D3V is sensitive to excessive heat from grinding and should only be ground wet. If there is significant damage it should be returned here for safe rework. Just include 10 bucks in the box to cover return postage and we'll take care of you. Contact Jo.

Nathan, the professionalism, responsiveness, and comradery you display here is beyond reproach, and is what makes me so excited to start getting some of your knives.

Thank you for being such a great example of how everyone should behave and how every business should be run.
 
And that mere $10 for return shipping is heavily subsidized for a big knife like CPK-LC.
 
Safer lanyard wrap for bigger blades, brought to you courtesy of Bacon's uncle Bruce :D

Extra :thumbsup: for southpaw. :D

Sure we do. D3V is sensitive to excessive heat from grinding and should only be ground wet. If there is significant damage it should be returned here for safe rework. Just include 10 bucks in the box to cover return postage and we'll take care of you. Contact Jo.
I think that was the one reply T was hopin for lol. ;)
 
there isn't a blade in my possession, that I use, that hasn't had dings, dents or ripples on the edge at some point or another. My maintenance OCD ensures they get as ground away as possible. It would probably take me about 1/2 hour to get that edge back to normal, using stones. If you have an LC, or an HDFK, that you use I strongly recommend you teach yourself how to re edge your knives, because shit happens

the forward lanyard, if you do it right, will amplify power and control. In dynamic situations, I wouldn't use one, but if you're practicing your chopping technique in a more or less static scenario it can really help and provide another layer of safety
 
I agree with Nathan on the lanyard Tony.

I wouldn't use one as I don't do Bladesports. I have a lot of scar tissue in my forearm from racing motorcycles and also get some pain/fatigue in my arm referred to as arm pump.

Number one thing you can do is to concentrate on your grip. Personally because I'm so familiar with small blades my grip is light as possible in that case.

However get me on a big one where I have MUCH less experience and I over grip it. I'll bet you are also gripping it too hard. It really kills you to do that.

Personally I can use an axe with 0 fatigue that is way heavier than a big knife. I'm no machine though. Splitting a cord of firewood poops me out. I'm not as young as I used to be.
 
If you decide to own big blades, do yourselves a favor and learn freehand sharpening. Either start with the cheaper 1095 steel variants till you get better at it, or like me just take a dive into the deep end by learning and honing your skills on your most expensive blade types. Why? Because D3V or 3V sharpening is different to those with1095, S30V, S35VN.

For my bigger blades I have bought the continuous surface DMT Coarse to go with my Fallkniven DC521 whetstone and the 3 x 8 Spyderco 306UF to deburr and to fine tune the edge. With this gear I have from 300 grit right up to 3000+ if the manufacturer's data can be relied upon! For your ding though Tony, you may need something coarser like Extra Coarse in the 150 grit range, but not sure.

It's crazy to spend several thousand$ on knives but to not have a few hundred$ in good freehand stones. Sharpening systems while great for smaller knives, are awkward for larger blades of 8" or more. I reckon that my newly acquired KME system will be maxed out with the NASK, er, HDFK. Freehand field sharpening is just something else when you get better at it. I swear that I'm learning different pitches and sounds that a blade makes at different angles when it hits those stones!
 
Also TRfromMT TRfromMT that bit of love you left on it will make it easier to use since you already got some use on it. Now you'll beat it like it wants to be beaten!

^This right here. You're going to have lots of fun with the LC from here forward I bet. I always hate putting the first scratch on, but after you do, the blade really becomes 'yours.' Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the write-up.
 
good video link Casino, thanks...btw, did you pick up on what he says starting around 4:28?

The original credit must go to Guy at Survive! because he had this video posted when some of us were discussing lanyards and the old GSO-10.

His Aussie dialect and vernacular is a bit hard to follow and he's sorta mumbling at that 4:28 mark but he's talking about the ease of ditching the knife when tumbling with it from the lanyard hanging by your thumb as opposed the the set up when wrapped around the wrist when the knife will come at you in that gashing motion. That's the extent of what I picked up around that time mark!
 
The original credit must go to Guy at Survive! because he had this video posted when some of us were discussing lanyards and the old GSO-10.

His Aussie dialect and vernacular is a bit hard to follow and he's sorta mumbling at that 4:28 mark but he's talking about the ease of ditching the knife when tumbling with it from the lanyard hanging by your thumb as opposed the the set up when wrapped around the wrist when the knife will come at you in that gashing motion. That's the extent of what I picked up around that time mark!

yah,hahaha...

and right after that he said he's moving away from using lanyards.
 
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