The CPK LC getting it done (Picture heavy)

Thanks for all the feedback, everyone.

By the way, this was easier to sharpen than I thought... can I get a "Hell yeah!" There were small thumbnail- catchers the full length. Now it's back to hair shaving, paper slicing sharp (but a bit of the chip remains, which will work out with a few more sharpening sessions)
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Nice, real nice. As an aside, I took Mat a.k.a the EDC 4V out for a run against drywall (deburring for paint prep) and tile grout. The edge (though not the finish) held up superb against drywall. For scraping off and around excess grout? Grout wins by a hair! Zoom the tip region to note the micro chipping ;)

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I can tell you I got similar results from my NeOn in M390. A little wear to the edge, finish held up very well, but needs a sharpening now. Won't shave hair.

Don't mind the dent in the spine, that was from its first introduction to falling on asphalt.

Also noted an artifact in the pic. Tip is completely intact but seems it's missing in the pic.

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Casinostocks said:
If you decide to own big blades, do yourselves a favor and learn freehand sharpening. Either start with the cheaper 1095 steel variants till you get better at it, or like me just take a dive into the deep end by learning and honing your skills on your most expensive blade types. Why? Because D3V or 3V sharpening is different to those with1095, S30V, S35VN.

For my bigger blades I have bought the continuous surface DMT Coarse to go with my Fallkniven DC521 whetstone and the 3 x 8 Spyderco 306UF to deburr and to fine tune the edge. With this gear I have from 300 grit right up to 3000+ if the manufacturer's data can be relied upon! For your ding though Tony, you may need something coarser like Extra Coarse in the 150 grit range, but not sure.

It's crazy to spend several thousand$ on knives but to not have a few hundred$ in good freehand stones. Sharpening systems while great for smaller knives, are awkward for larger blades of 8" or more. I reckon that my newly acquired KME system will be maxed out with the NASK, er, HDFK. Freehand field sharpening is just something else when you get better at it. I swear that I'm learning different pitches and sounds that a blade makes at different angles when it hits those stones!
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Yeah freehand sharpening is where its at. It does much much more difficult with fancier steels. Usually you'll need diamond stones or preferably good ceramic stones to cut the harder carbides.
 
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