The "do everything" fixed blade shape.

[GREENJACKET]

I'm no expert on Leukus, but expect that they were traditionally just a large knife for processing food. I think the modern interpretation has made them heavier duty than they were. Scandinavians were famed for their axes which are far superior for heavy duty work. I suspect Leukas and Puukkos were far thinner than they are today and not expected to do the multi tasking we do now.
Happy to be corrected as I have a limited knowledge and just relying on what I have read, which is sketchy at best.

 

[VanDammet]

Despite being practical, those are gorgeous knives.

Thanks brother! Ya, I'm thrilled with how these both turned out.

 

[RX-79G]

I'm no expert on Leukus, but expect that they were traditionally just a large knife for processing food. I think the modern interpretation has made them heavier duty than they were. Scandinavians were famed for their axes which are far superior for heavy duty work. I suspect Leukas and Puukkos were far thinner than they are today and not expected to do the multi tasking we do now.
Happy to be corrected as I have a limited knowledge and just relying on what I have read, which is sketchy at best.

They were for similar tasks as the Hudson Bay knife - chopping up big animals, maybe a little firewood as necessary. Modern leuku blades look like the go from 3mm to 5mm, which are all quite a bit thinner than the Hudson Bay's 1/4". Regardless of how good their axes were, sometimes a heavier chopper is easier to carry while hunting as a do-it-all tool. Still, even 5mm is only a hair thicker than 3/16" - not exactly massive.

 

[gadgetgeek]

A reindeer is not exactly a massive animal to carve up. so it wouldn't surprise me to find that those blades had gotten larger to handle the modern method of single blade bushcraft.
I think a major factor is that unless you had a soft tempered blade like a bayonet or similar, you wouldn't be doing much chopping with any of the old blades. Axes were used for a reason. We have the advantage of modern steels for chopping and batoning, 200 years ago you would burn the firewood you could collect, unless you had a saw or ax. Sure the big heavy versions of the hudson's bay might well have done bone-break duty with a mallet, but you would likely be processing bison in a different, more industrial manner, and its unlikely that a lone hunter would carry such a heavy knife, since bison hunting is not a solo task. From horseback, as part of a larger kit perhaps. I think its a bit apples to oranges. With a bison or bear, there are big muscles and fat to cut through, so having a large heavy blade that can handle a lot of rough sharpening would be valued. To the nordic hunter who is traveling much lighter, and hunting a much smaller quarry, and likely processing small game as well as large, a long-ish but otherwise generally slight blade is going to provide much greater utility. They catch some big fish up that way as well, and its nice to be able to cut clean through.

 

[GREENJACKET]

Big fish, and large beast meat processing then a large butchers blade would be useful. The Hudson Bay is a beefed up butchers knife.

As that is all to often all done for us and we just buy from the supermarket, I think its a very modern thing in finding new uses for these knives. Better steel helps too. I'm just not sure how efficient they are however good we make them for their new role as "bushcraft" tools. One thing is we are all so impatient, and I don't think we will have solved it until someone produces a light sabre! Its fun trying though.

In the old days there were pack animals which can get to more places than the Truck. Hunting light weight has always been done from a base camp which has all the amenities be it a tent, hunting lodge, or village. Few hunters today hunt hungry. Funny how times have changed.

 

[NJBillK]

I don't think we will have solved it until someone produces a light sabre!

I have nipped myself with a knife before. Going by what I have seen of their capabilities in movies, I won't buy one.
I am the odd combination of just clumsy enough and grown attached to my fingers, hands, feet and legs too much.

 

[GREENJACKET]

Ah but if yu have seen the new movie there is a light sabre with cross guard wielded by an idiot. Suppose it has a safety system built in. So there is still hope for us
I've had a few too many close shaves too... now do plenty of thinking before I cut especially with the heavier tools. I have my own safety drills check list; its dangerous if I get lax. Regular use helps too.

 

[NJBillK]

I cut meat for a living and due to that I am actually more comfortable with a knife that has a 7" - 9" blade length rather than one that has a 3 1/2" blade.
I tend to poke myself due to thinking I have more clearance than I actually do.

With a shorter blade I think I am not as aware of the proprioceptive input from my hand and the knife tip...
Where as with a longer knife (especially a trailing point), the tip is more prominent and thus cause for maintained awareness.

Part of the reason I have a general use knife with a 4 3/4" blade is that it is comparable in size to my boning knives.

 

[pinnah]

I have the custom pictured below en route as we speak.
4 3/4" blade (52100), 9 1/4 OAL, just over 1" blade height and built with being my "goto" general duty knife in mind.

That's a super looking knife.

How do you feel that handles wood working, particularly making feather sticks and shavings. Do you loose control close to your hand with the edge below your hand?

 

[NJBillK]

I don't have it in hand yet seeing as how it is being shipped to me from Croatia as we speak.
I will be able to give a thorough review (Hopefully) the week after Mothers day.

Regarding the design of this knife, previous handle shapes that I prefer for users have been instrumental. That being the case, I should have no such issues. Most of the forced exerted are in plane with the spine/edge and shouldn't have much of a torquing effect that can't be easily negated due to the drop in the butt of the handle.
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Thanks for the complimentary post. I am Really looking forward to getting that in hand. The micarta is 30+ year old stock and looks Phenomenal.

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OP: Sorry about the photo heavy posts, if you want me to remove them, I will.

 

[RX-79G]

That's a super looking knife.

How do you feel that handles wood working, particularly making feather sticks and shavings. Do you loose control close to your hand with the edge below your hand?

Great point!

That is the main downside I see to the OP knife style. It seems like the aspect ratio of the handle would have a big impact on your control for carving. A rounder handle, which works great on narrow blades, would resist torquing less.

This may be a strength of the Canadian Belt Knife style - having a different handle angle from the edge lets the pommel end act as a lever to resist torque with the heel of the hand.

 

[Herlock]

What would your do-everything fixed blade look like?

Interesting question... it triggered some reflections . From my limited experience so far, I would say the following: drop point blade shape, full flat grind, stainless steel, 3.5 - 4.5 mm blade thickness, 12 - 16 cm blade length, comfortable synthetic material handle (or anyway something with basically a good grip, minimum wear and easy to clean/maintain). With something like this, I feel I could handle 98% of my tasks.

 

[shqxk]

I love knife with thick spine for strength for prying or hard use if necessary.
Wide blade with pointy tip and full flat grind and thin edge for great all around use while also great for kitchen.
Blade choil act as finger guard for defensive use.
Good tough steel > CPM-3V

 

[Shotgun]

You can get around the guard issue by having that part hang off the end of the cutting board. Or, use the belly to slice. Other then mincing garlic(garlic press?) or chopping herbs, you really don't have to use the flat portion of the blade to cut with.

I'm surprised at how many people choose a wide and thick blade. IME they can be pretty terrible at some things. When I think of a do all blade I think of a robust paring knife. Good thing mora companions exist. Carve a spear, clean the animal, cut the veggies, then split some kindling for the fire. While it's cooking finish up your wood working project. Does it all. Heck, I used my mora to plane a door jam this week.

 

[Tachead7075]

You can get around the guard issue by having that part hang off the end of the cutting board. Or, use the belly to slice. Other then mincing garlic(garlic press?) or chopping herbs, you really don't have to use the flat portion of the blade to cut with.

I'm surprised at how many people choose a wide and thick blade. IME they can be pretty terrible at some things. When I think of a do all blade I think of a robust paring knife. Good thing mora companions exist. Carve a spear, clean the animal, cut the veggies, then split some kindling for the fire. While it's cooking finish up your wood working project. Does it all. Heck, I used my mora to plane a door jam this week.

A Mora to split fire wood? Not the best nor most reliable knife for that use imo. I think a lot of people pick thicker blades because of the added durability and reliability. You are much less likely to break of damage a beefier full tang blade which would not be cool if it were your only knife. I think a medium thickness blade(1/8-3/16") with a FFG is a good compromise. Of course YMMV.

 

[NJBillK]

A Mora to split fire wood? Not the best nor most reliable knife for that use imo. I think a lot of people pick thicker blades because of the added durability and reliability. You are much less likely to break of damage a beefier full tang blade which would not be cool if it were your only knife. I think a medium thickness blade(1/8-3/16") with a FFG is a good compromise. Of course YMMV.

You wouldn't use the mora to split the wood. You would use the mora to make a wedge that you would use to split the wood and save the edge on your knife.

But, while I Can get by with a mora, I prefer something a touch larger. But that is just preference.

Skill, technique and knowledge will work better than a larger knife.
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All of that being said, he said split some kindling, not 12" rounds. A Mora should be able to manage small pieces using the blade with no issue.

split some kindling for the fire.

 

[VanDammet]

That's a super looking knife.

How do you feel that handles wood working, particularly making feather sticks and shavings. Do you loose control close to your hand with the edge below your hand?

I have basically the same knife from the same maker & it's one of the few customs I actually use as a work horse...& the antique micarta is just mind blowing...it's just richer & I don't know, better than modern micarta for the most part (though, I love me some Shadetree products!). I craft bushes with this knife extensively, & my 15yo has his own & does the same with his....both of us find the knife to be a wood carving machine, & the handle has never been anything but comfortable for me, in every grip I try. I was wary about it too, but man, it's just super comfy & grippy, & his geometry & edge are designed perfectly for wood working tasks....our two examples just devour wood, and we find the entire design, while simple, to be extremely effective. NJBILLK - Congrats on your new knife brother - you're going to love it!!

 

[sabre cat]

I bought a Benchmade 162 Bushcraft knife thinking that it would be my do all, end all fixed blade. As much as I enjoy the knife I find myself wishing it was a FFG. Anyone ever regrind a knife like the 162 to make it a FFG?

I am convinced that there is no such beast as a "do everything" kind of blade but, IMHO, a DP FFG comes close.

 

[RX-79G]

I bought a Benchmade 162 Bushcraft knife thinking that it would be my do all, end all fixed blade. As much as I enjoy the knife I find myself wishing it was a FFG. Anyone ever regrind a knife like the 162 to make it a FFG?

I am convinced that there is no such beast as a "do everything" kind of blade but, IMHO, a DP FFG comes close.

It's a pretty thick blade, so you certainly could regrind it to FFG. I did that with a hollow ground knife. I just don't know if I would do that with a $200 name brand knife instead of just trading it.

 

[NJBillK]

Dupe...
Phone issues...