The "do everything" fixed blade shape.

As far as a regring goes, Get in contact with Josh from Razor Edge Knives. He is in the custom knife, services offered section.

VanDammet said:
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NJBILLK - Congrats on your new knife brother - you're going to love it!!
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Thank you. I am Really looking forward to it.
Dalibor was Fantastic to work with and the knife seems to have turned out as I had hoped. We shall see what my response is when I have it in hand.
 
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Might as well take advantage of a duped message, instead of posting a new one.

Someone had asked about how the knife I had inbound from Daado was going to work for feather sticking and RX had it correct when it came to the ergos.

RX-79G said:
This may be a strength of the Canadian Belt Knife style - having a different handle angle from the edge lets the pommel end act as a lever to resist torque with the heel of the hand.
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See below:
Still green and as thus is the case, taken from a downed tree.
 
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Say Heah Guys and Gals, I thought about a do all, sort of a one tool option. I think alot of knives could be it, But you have to use just that knife for everything and nothing else and you will be use to that knife. I saw a Tribesmen use a long machete type sword to carve a bow, I bet that's all he uses for everything and he keeps it sharp. The Saame People with their Leuku comes to mind too. I sort of did that after playing around with my Ka-Bar Johnson Adventure Potbelly, yeah I got pretty good with it, but I still carried a Top's Mini Scandi 2.5 as my neck knife, mostly using my Potbelly. Then I wanted to sort of complete my Swamp Rat Rodent Series,, When I got to a 6" blade I didn't like the Double Guard, but most of my friends live theirs as is. I also didn't like the .265" thickness if I was going to just use a 6" blade for everything, so I had it thinned down, It's now less than a 1/4", That raised the relief edge which turned out great for me and my intentions, I like a slicer, and it is now. I did have the top gaurd taken off and now it look's like a beefy RatManDu on steriods, It's still robust and fits my criteria for a 1knife carry, I like to know I can baton with it and be a decent chopper for its size, then I know I can also baton chop down a small dead tree if needed to build a shelter or firewood to stay warm. I like the idea of using a knife until I can use it just about anything without even thinking about using another knife. But they say the best knife is the knife that's on you at the time. We all could prepare ourself in that area also. I carry a very lite Mora 510 as a neck knife, The Mora stays on my, under my T-Shirt, Sweatshirt ALL the time when cooking, working around the house and out and about in the bush or anywhere. I really like it. But I also give time, time to use my one tool option and time takes care of the rest. It can be done or that Tribesmen couldn't carve that bow or the Same people would most likely be a multi carry people. Regardless what the reason was for someone to use one tool, But It's Possible.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 
These are ML knives 1095 coal fired forge. The second from bottom has a 5 inch blade...this is my go to knife..drop points are my favorite blade style.
 

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I have a knife that is very similar to the 3" version of the ESEE MH. Mine is scandi ground though. I'm very impressed with the universal design intent of my knife. It can carve wood like a dream, while still being able to slice. The designer had multi-tasking and economics in mind, rather than specialization. I picked up the 3" version of the ESEE MH so I can actually do a side by side comparison to see which grind is actually better suited for universality and economy. The ESEE MH 3" version looks impressive, it will be my first ESEE. Mors taught me scandi is the more economical choice. I'm thinking he's correct, but I'd like to do some side by side slicing tests.

I side with a the drop-point shape, one that nears spear-point but is still slicer than a spear-point, for the "do everything" fixed blade shape. Very similar to what's pictured above, but drop the point just a tad. Sacrifice a tad of slice for a point that moves closer to the center-line of the knife for increased awling potential.
 
alfred mcdougal said:
ESEE34HM_iqlj-o8.jpg


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I have a knife that is very similar to the 3" version of the ESEE MH. Mine is scandi ground though. I'm very impressed with the universal design intent of my knife. It can carve wood like a dream, while still being able to slice. The designer had multi-tasking and economics in mind, rather than specialization. I picked up the 3" version of the ESEE MH so I can actually do a side by side comparison to see which grind is actually better suited for universality and economy. The ESEE MH 3" version looks impressive, it will be my first ESEE. Mors taught me scandi is the more economical choice. I'm thinking he's correct, but I'd like to do some side by side slicing tests.

I side with a the drop-point shape, one that nears spear-point but is still slicer than a spear-point, for the "do everything" fixed blade shape. Very similar to what's pictured above, but drop the point just a tad. Sacrifice a tad of slice for a point that moves closer to the center-line of the knife for increased awling potential.
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Hello. What does the bold portion mean? Economical to make, to buy, to sharpen?
 


i've sort of ended up with this shape as my "do all" over the years as it's been an ever evolving set of adjustments i have made on a theme since 1997. now it's my mid sized fieldcraft/utility model with dimentions similar to a loveless chute knife.
 
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