The Fusion Battle Choppasaurus Is Coming 3-5-2023 At 9:00PM Eastern . . . .

Bob Denman said:
Yup! 😎👍
Finding them in he secondary market can be tough...
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They were pricey blades. LOTS more of the Battle Grade versions out there, since they were much more affordable, and those pop up pretty regularly on the X.
 
I noticed the satin finish option was stated as “hand satin” is this different from satin years ago on how these finishes are applied ?

Usually, my experience with hand satin finishes are with custom knives when the maker actually hand sands the finish from tip to handle in parallel of the spine.
 
Nismo17 said:
I noticed the satin finish option was stated as “hand satin” is this different from satin years ago on how these finishes are applied ?

Usually, my experience with hand satin finishes are with custom knives when the maker actually hand sands the finish from tip to handle in parallel of the spine.
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No. Hand applied, using a Scotchbrite wheel or belt. Scratch pattern runs spine-to-edge.
 
Nismo17 said:
I completely dropped the ball on this one. 🤬 Just was interested in satin , so not sure what I’m going to do. The fact Stonewashed is on last call is tempting.
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zeuqramjj2002 said:
Get that one and make it the satin you want it to be and tape off the logo, you gain a skill and enjoy the blade more, it’s better than aftermarket $$$$.
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I agree! Better than missing out altogether!

That's what I did (or had to do because I waited too long), got stonewashed and figured I'd check it out to see how I like it then I can always make it satin later.

Only problem is that you can't do the blade near the handle or the exposed tang because the scales are in the way. That's where removable scales would have been nice but they also don't look as nice as these tubular rivets do. You can always drill them out and put new ones back in I guess but I haven't bothered to find out what ones they use or what's available for replacement.

Nismo17 Nismo17 , get one before you regret it! DOOOOO EEEEET! 😈
Bob Denman said:
For the Dummy with no skills here:
How do you do that?
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Bob Denman said:
😁 I actually have no idea as to the type of media to use...
But I do have some satin blades that I'd like to put a mirror finish on...
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I cannot speak from experience here as I've not refinished one of these myself, but I can say with certainty that I've seen this done and know it will work as I've done similar work before, just not on a Busse.

This is a job best done by hand as using a belt sander is bad for a number of reasons.

All you need is basic sandpaper, preferably sandpaper designed for metal removal using silicon carbide for the abrasive (usually various shades of gray or black in color) and sand the surfaces using some sort of a block to keep the paper flat. Use WD-40 or similar to keep the paper clean and carry the swarf away.

Move the sandpaper in the direction you want your grind lines to be whether that be spine to edge or tip to handle.

This is usually best done having the knife clamped down and using a sanding block to move the sandpaper over the blade OR clamp or tape a sheet of the sandpaper down to a flat surface (a tile or sheet of glass or something) and move the blade over it. Usually the former for larger knives and the latter for smaller knives.

INFI will respond very well to sanding as it's not a carbide rich steel and crazy high Rockwell hardness so you don't need fancy abrasives or equipment. Just sandpaper, WD-40, whatever sanding block you like, and some clamps or tape. That's about it.

Toughest part is probably keeping your strokes even and straight so as not to inadvertently make a j-hook looking scratch pattern messing up your nice lines.

As for grits, I'd imagine 220 grit is probably a pretty decent starting point. If you need coarser or finer you can always move up or down from there. You probably won't finish higher than 400-600 grit unless you're going for a mirror finish which will take much longer. Metal polishes and a powered tool will be your friend there as you move past 600-800 grit I'd imagine.

You can always finish at 220-400 grit and move to scotch brite pads to get a look similar to what Busse satin has. They also make disk for use on bench/pedestal grinders to make that process go faster and for better stock removal. Just be careful to always move the pad away from the edge, not towards it! If it catches the edge it can rip it out of your hand! I don't need to explain how horrifying that could be!

Hope that helps point you in the right direction!

Important note I wanted to add : always start with a higher grit or even a polish first as it's easier to go coarser than it is to go finer. Go too coarse at first and you may have your work cut out to remove the deeper scratches you just put on it!

This link has some good info too : http://forums.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/1049040/Re_NEW_Knives_and_Gear_pics_on.html
 
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