The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Think if we ask real nice we can get an infomercial that includes the words slices and dices?Wowwwww, that's awesome.
I'm serious. Not about the slices and dices. I want to see this beast in action! It is impressive!!!Think if we ask real nice we can get an infomercial that includes the words slices and dices?
You are absolutely right. There is bunch of Frozen food knife patents from 1950ies
....but I'm having a hard time getting my head around what the utility is of a bench mounted drill.
that's literally a small peg and raker saw
that's literally a small peg and raker saw
I keep an old rubber abrasive polishing wheel in the chuck of mine.
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Mine has 3 speeds. The slotted tracks allow it to move in front of either of the 3 sheaves.
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Sometimes it's nice to have a grinder without a motor in the way.
I love it man! Thanks for the comprehensive write up. The post vise and draw knife, I salute you!Today I made a mock up for an upcoming project. It's a tenon & mortise joint for a knee brace. I'll be building a new patio roof in a couple weeks and I wanted to practice this before I risked damaging good lumber. This went pretty well but this old crap lumber I had laying around gave me some trouble because it's not square or dimensionally correct.
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Here's the tenon. It's a piece of old weathered poplar. It carves pretty nice but the piece isn't square.
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I started the mortise pocket in a scrap of 4x12 Doug Fir. I hogged out a bunch of material with a 1-1/4" spade bit and a cordless drill. I'm not being a slave to hand tools on this project. I go back and forth between hand and power tools based on what I feel like doing.
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Some nice mortising chisels and a small slick. The crude little mallet is made from a piece of London Plane, chosen for its toughness. I have a bunch of fast & dirty mallets/mauls around.
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Here the mortise pocket is taking shape. The lines drawn across the pocket labeled 45 & 90 were to help me place my drill. The double line in the middle had 90° and 45° bore holes starting right next to each other and immediately crossing each other. I drilled tiny pilot holes for each that I could follow after my spade bit bore for the first hole wiped out my layout for the second. I used my DeWalt cordless leaf blower to clean out the pocket as I worked. That worked great!
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Here's the finished mortise pocket.
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Next I'm making some pegs for my joints. I'm using some black locust that I've air dried for 3 years. Black locust is a great choice for pegs because it's hard, gritty (grippy) and highly rot resistant. It was the preferred peg material for colonial timber framers. I have an 8" long piece of a 7-1/2" round. I'm slabbing it with a froe. The maul on the stump is an piece of Doug Fir. It's not a very good maul. I carved it green 5 years ago for a single use project. But it hasn't died yet so I still use it.
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I split the slab into peg blanks. I got a dozen blanks out of this round. I need 8 for my project plus one for this mock up.
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I roughed out the peg with a Pexto drawknife. I use my drawknife bevel side down, super sharp and pull it skewed to slice rather than split. I've found I'm best able to manage grain changes this way. I finished the peg by draw filing with the smooth side of a farriers rasp. This cleaned them up real fast. Later I bought material at the hardware store to make a peg jig. I'll see how that goes. I may come back to this method.
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One last shot of my mock up.
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C/R 4Both great, and whats the weight stamp on the C/R mallet? Chicago Rawhide. Excellent mallets