THE Hollow Handle Knife Thread

cricketdave said:
Well all the hollow handle talk was killin me since I had sold off all the ones I had except for one that was stolen 30 years ago. Sure wish I still had it but oh well. I'm sure it went to a pawn shop for pennies compared to what it was worth. Not to mention what it would be worth now. Anyway I contacted Newt Martin and worked out what I wanted with him. 7inch blade no saw teeth s35v steel lugged hilt and no sheath since I'll make my own. Now the wait will be killing me but it gives me time to save the money up. My daughter saw what I ordered and now she wants the Caiman. She already has her own Busse team gemini with a survival kit on the sheath. Guess that will be my next order after I get my own.
Click to expand...

Congratulations, man. I'm glad we got you back in the game! :D You will have to show us some pics when you get it in. Martin makes a very nice knife. :thumbup:

Sam
 
1SHOT1KILL said:
Quick and dirty pic
Click to expand...

Thanks 1SHOT, it looks like that thing tore through there pretty good. That is one mean looking knife. :thumbup: I have been toying with using a black oxide finish. How is it holding up? I know all finishes/coatings wear, but I prefer the acid etches/bluing to coatings, since they don't chip/flake. I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts. Thank you,

Sam :thumbup:
 
I've used steel tubing for handles before but never once
thought about leaving access to the hollow compartment.
I'm hooked after seeing this thread.
I like the idea of threading a long pole in to make a spear.
I think I'll bend and flatten some different size tubing to get some
ideas for a "Comfortable" grip.
I saw some knives here that have the "tube" encased in the handle
rather than the tube being the handle.
What a great idea...
The whole hollow tube for storage idea should work as good (if not better)
in something like a hatchet or hawk, etc.

Mike
 
Mike, I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Here are some pics of a prototype I did, the Model 2. On this one I used a micarta handle. This one is a prototype, so the fit and finish aren't perfect, but it let me know that the micarta would work, and is VERY comfortable. I now put a thin layer of micarta on the handles before the cord wrap for customers that want it. It allows me to contour the handle a little, kind of like an egg shape.

This makes the knife less prone to roll during heavy work, insulates it some from heat/cold and shock, and if you ever remove the cord wrap, you still have a comfortable handle.

104_0389copy_zps350694be.jpg


104_0367copy_zps057f4b6a.jpg


104_0430copy1_zps0618b38a.jpg


Sam :thumbup:
 
Sam Wilson said:
Mike, I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Here are some pics of a prototype I did, the Model 2. On this one I used a micarta handle. This one is a prototype, so the fit and finish aren't perfect, but it let me know that the micarta would work, and is VERY comfortable. I now put a thin layer of micarta on the handles before the cord wrap for customers that want it. It allows me to contour the handle a little, kind of like an egg shape.

This makes the knife less prone to roll during heavy work, insulates it some from heat/cold and shock, and if you ever remove the cord wrap, you still have a comfortable handle.

104_0389copy_zps350694be.jpg


104_0367copy_zps057f4b6a.jpg


104_0430copy1_zps0618b38a.jpg


Sam :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Sam, I think this is my favorite Wilson Custom so far. :thumbup:
 
Sam Wilson said:
Mike, I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Here are some pics of a prototype I did, the Model 2. On this one I used a micarta handle. This one is a prototype, so the fit and finish aren't perfect, but it let me know that the micarta would work, and is VERY comfortable. I now put a thin layer of micarta on the handles before the cord wrap for customers that want it. It allows me to contour the handle a little, kind of like an egg shape.

This makes the knife less prone to roll during heavy work, insulates it some from heat/cold and shock, and if you ever remove the cord wrap, you still have a comfortable handle.
Click to expand...

Your prototype looks great.

I'd like to give a sub-hilt a try. A goat skin wrapped grip may hold up.
 
Sam Wilson said:
Thanks 1SHOT, it looks like that thing tore through there pretty good. That is one mean looking knife. :thumbup: I have been toying with using a black oxide finish. How is it holding up? I know all finishes/coatings wear, but I prefer the acid etches/bluing to coatings, since they don't chip/flake. I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts. Thank you,

Sam :thumbup:
Click to expand...

HH5.jpg HH6.jpg HH7.jpg

Sam,

I had my friend take the knife and the Sog Powerlock over to Eagle Industries (Big Black Oxide plater here) and match the finish on the knife to my Sog. They did an excellent job. Matches exactly and its been going strong for 4+ years now. The knife doesn't see a terrible amount of action so the finish is still new looking. I imagine if it spent a weekend as my only blade it might start to show some wear. It has chopped through two small logs so far and doesn't shown any wear yet. (Not a true test I understand) I also have a CRK Green Beret that is KC Gun coated and that thing has chopped a ***t load of branches, logs etc and it still looks great. I took it to Plaza Cutlery over the summer to have it sharpened and even they wanted to know what I used it for. I said "what it was designed for, no safe queens here". They just chuckled. Why own it if you can't use it, right?
 
Thank you Bowie69 and TAH.
Here's where I keep my Buckmaster when I'm not on a covert mission:
DSCN0428.jpg
 
TAH said:
While you guys figure out the BuckMaster revamp, let's talk compasses. :D

For those of you who carry a mini compass in the handle of your knife, do you prefer it to be permanently installed in the buttcap or not? I prefer not installed for the following reasons:

1) Convenience - With each bearing, the buttcap does not need to be removed.
2) If the buttcap is used for pounding or the blade for chopping, the compass could be damaged from impact.
3) Permanent installation makes replacing a damaged compass more difficult.


Here is my mini compass collection. Please feel free to post your compasses as well. :thumbup:

96e57704-3346-4b03-9771-18515d19f367_zpsf0d51d5a.jpg


1) Karl Mfg., .25" brass, dry, USA (1980s)
2) Marbles, .50" brass, dry, USA (mid 80s - early 90s), used by Randall
3) Marbles, .50" brass, dry, USA (70s - early 80s), used by Randall, Lile, and Timberline
4) Maker unknown, .50" plastic, liquid, Japan, current Randall compass
5) Pyser-SGI NATO Survival, .50" brass, dry, England, current Wilson Custom Knives compass
6) Maker unknown, .50" brass, dry, USA (late 80s) used by Timberline
7) Stocker & Yale, .75" brass, dry, USA (1980s)
Click to expand...

north is...witch way?!? hahaha
assuming 2, 4 and 5 give the best bearings out of those seven.

As backup, I use a modified Recta Clipper inside the sheath.
 
pietje said:
north is...witch way?!? hahaha
assuming 2, 4 and 5 give the best bearings out of those seven.
Click to expand...

:D Actually, they are all very accurate and point to true north. It's just that they all freak out when brought together.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top