The Inkosi Appreciation Thread

After taking a closer look at my Inkosi I realize I'm running a slight convex edge.

16° main bevel to about 18° at the cutting edge. Finished at at 1200 grit with 1 micron paste on smooth leather.

It's been amazing. Anyone else do something similar or you just using a factory edge?

This is the first time in my life that I can keep and maintain a hair splitting edge with just a few strokes on the diamond paste every once in a while.

I figure if this shows edge damage I will do a 20° micro.

Life is good.
 
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BellaBlades said:
After taking a closer look at my Inkosi I realize I'm running a slight convex edge.

15° main bevel to about 17° at the cutting edge. Finished at at 1200 grit with 1 micron paste on smooth leather.

It's been amazing. Anyone else do something similar or you just using a factory edge?

This is the first time in my life that I can keep and maintain a hair splitting edge with just a few strokes on the diamond paste every once in a while.

I figure if this shows edge damage I will do a 15°-20° convex. I use it pretty hard .

Only seen one micro chip when my initial edge was 15° flat with no micro after cutting some hard wood and plastic straps. The strop had no issue repairing it.

Life is good.
Click to expand...

I have been sharpening my large Sebenza on the WE130 at the “20” setting (top holes, B on the horizontal). I put the angle cube on it, and it read more like 19.5 degrees. I noticed a huge difference in edge retention when I started dropping down 1 degree per side and stropping with the 4/2 and 1/.5 diamond strops. It is a pretty light convexing, but I still noticed a difference from finishing with just the lapping films.

My current preference is finishing at 1000 grit and going right to the strops. Mirror edge is pretty and a little more like a razor blade, but it gets scratched up really quickly. The 1000 grit scratch pattern is really clean, still very sharp, and doesn’t give me scratch OCD when I use it.
 
jfowler1 said:
I have been sharpening my large Sebenza on the WE130 at the “20” setting (top holes, B on the horizontal). I put the angle cube on it, and it read more like 19.5 degrees. I noticed a huge difference in edge retention when I started dropping down 1 degree per side and stropping with the 4/2 and 1/.5 diamond strops. It is a pretty light convexing, but I still noticed a difference from finishing with just the lapping films.

My current preference is finishing at 1000 grit and going right to the strops. Mirror edge is pretty and a little more like a razor blade, but it gets scratched up really quickly. The 1000 grit scratch pattern is really clean, still very sharp, and doesn’t give me scratch OCD when I use it.
Click to expand...


Sounds like we're doing almost the same thing. Mine might actually be 16 to an 18° convex. Hard to estimate. Too many variables to know. I use a Gatco.
 
I
jfowler1 said:
I have been sharpening my large Sebenza on the WE130 at the “20” setting (top holes, B on the horizontal). I put the angle cube on it, and it read more like 19.5 degrees. I noticed a huge difference in edge retention when I started dropping down 1 degree per side and stropping with the 4/2 and 1/.5 diamond strops. It is a pretty light convexing, but I still noticed a difference from finishing with just the lapping films.

My current preference is finishing at 1000 grit and going right to the strops. Mirror edge is pretty and a little more like a razor blade, but it gets scratched up really quickly. The 1000 grit scratch pattern is really clean, still very sharp, and doesn’t give me scratch OCD when I use it.
Click to expand...

Can you post some pics of your bevel so I can compare it to mine. Like a shot of the whole blade?
 
I definitely would NOT recommend 15 dps WITHOUT a micro of at least 18 or so, especially if you are going to use the knife for more than just a letter opener.

My own recipe is to do a 20 dps bevel with no micro on a Wicked edge, as I think a the large bevels look fugly and take off too much steel. As far as progression, I'm going from 200-1500 stones, then finishing it up with lapping tapes down to 1 micron. This is a very sharp, and very refined edge that's also easy to maintain with a few swipes on an ultra-fine sharpmaker stone.

If you are looking for a great working edge, I would stop at 1000 grit and then hit it with 1 micron diamond paste on a strop. That will give you a nice, polished toothy edge that has some bite, but also looks nice. This is great if you are breaking down cardboard or cutting things like rope or pruning trees/shrubs/plants.

Finally, half the fun of having a new knife is experimenting with the edge. Have fun, and let us know what you came up with!
 
Glock Guy said:
I definitely would NOT recommend 15 dps WITHOUT a micro of at least 18 or so, especially if you are going to use the knife for more than just a letter opener.

My own recipe is to do a 20 dps bevel with no micro on a Wicked edge, as I think a the large bevels look fugly and take off too much steel. As far as progression, I'm going from 200-1500 stones, then finishing it up with lapping tapes down to 1 micron. This is a very sharp, and very refined edge that's also easy to maintain with a few swipes on an ultra-fine sharpmaker stone.

If you are looking for a great working edge, I would stop at 1000 grit and then hit it with 1 micron diamond paste on a strop. That will give you a nice, polished toothy edge that has some bite, but also looks nice. This is great if you are breaking down cardboard or cutting things like rope or pruning trees/shrubs/plants.

Finally, half the fun of having a new knife is experimenting with the edge. Have fun, and let us know what you came up with!
Click to expand...


Hey there.

Looks like 16 to 18 slight convex.
I might pick up UF SM stones for touch ups.


IMG_20180423_181608~2.jpg IMG_20180423_190723~2.jpg
 
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It's nearly impossible for me to take a photo that shows the edge properly. Oh well.
 
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