Ok, there are some pictures from our first time in the Alps. We didn't do many summits but it was fun anyway.
Rule #1: You may think you are packing light... well you are NOT. So dump everything in the ground and take no more than half of what you packed the first time. The first time you see the French gides almost running up and down the mountains with ridiculously small packs you will know what I mean.
Getting out of the Aguille du Midi Teleferic was not an easy task!
That is my pal Manu roped up and about to get into the glacier.
That is me in the glacier heading to the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Walking roped up like that just sucks but... it is the only way to lessen the consecuences of falling in a crevase.
Rule #2 Listen to the weather forecast and go down if you see the gides doing so: When you do things wrong, don't listen carefully to the weather forecast and try to go up when everybody else is going down... you may end up like this:
Happy camping in a snow cave! Not fun with a 0ºC down filled sleeping bag (it was like -15ºC outside). Hint: elbow room for shoveling is a must but don't make the entrance too big, otherwise you won't be able to seal it with your semi empty backpacks (we used a thick survival blanket and snow stakes but wasn't air tight).
Rule #3 DO use heavy sun protection: Carrying a bottle of sun protection but not using it doesn't help much We just looked like Homer Simpson in that picture. A few hours late we had some blisters and the best seasoned leather ever in our faces (it peeled of after a while but hurt like hell). Lucky me I was wearing googles.
Our second attempt went much better. We packed lighter, climbed faster and were a little bit more used to the over 4000m altitudes. We did the "Ruta de los 4000" ("Route of the 4000m peaks") to the Mont Blanc. That is not the usual route to the Mont Blanc but takes you to the summit of two more "over 4000m" peaks ("Mont Blanc du Tacul" and "Mont Maudit"). Just a few pictures of the climb.
About to get to the top of Mont Maudit.
That peak in the back is the Mont Blanc. It looks pretty close but... it is not. We packed ligther than in our first attempt but that doesn't mean that we packed light. We still had our sleeping bags, polarguard jackets, crevase rescue gear, water, melting water means, etc. Too much.
Great views of the Peuterey Areete (I guess... not sure though)
Anybody wants to go winter camping? We didn't haul a tent so we end up sleeping in another hole. I remember it was August 9th... my birthday! And surprisingly there was cell phone coverage. I received a few calls (costly for me for being in a foreing country!) and my gf saying something like:
GF: "Happy Birthday honney! How is it going?"
Me: "Nah... you know, doing good... stuck over 4000m shivering a little bit with Manu, frostbitten toes and totally sunburnt. Best birthday ever!"
GF: "God damn! You get hurt... I´ll kill you!"
Me: "Sure sure... I'll be ok, don't worry"
Geez! Those gf can get kind of anoying in some circumstances!
On our way down the usual route to the Mont Blanc we came a across a guy who was yelling: "You guys run fast or stay down!" WTF? Little did we know what was about to happen but we were not able to run so we just stayed with our heads down. Thump thump thump... and here it comes the rescue team! Another climber broke a leg or something, we never knew for sure. They didn't even land, just got close to the arete... grab the guy and pulled him inside the chopper. Amazing.
That's my climbing pal Manu with his modded Ecrin Rock helmet.
And this is about the end of our first time in the Alps... in August! There is a say among the climbing community: If you pack stuff so as to spend a night out "just in case"... you are going to spend that night out for sure. So go light, go fast and come back in less than 24h!
Thanks for watching,
Mikel
PD: Brian, still looking for our best climbing pics... I am at work and I don't have all of them here.