This pictures are like 2 years old (March 2006) but I like them a lot anyway.
My partner Manu and me wanted to do some snow/ice climbing in Picos de Europa so there we went (two hours driving). We slept in his van and at 5am it was raining like there was no tomorrow... Ok, we slept some more but at 8am it was still rainning. At 9:30 the clouds disappeared so we packed all our shit together and headed to the Urriello Hut (wich is right under the Pico Urriello AKA Naranjo de Bulnes). It took us three hours or so to get there.
We knew it was too late to do anything so we unpacked our stuff in the our closets, ate a little bit and chatted a little bit with the hut keeper. He told us that there was a nice climb just behind the hut in great conditions with hard snow and some ice... that it shouldn't take us to do it and that we will be back for dinner with no problems. He didn't need to tell us twice... We picked up our ice picks, crampons, some water, spare gloves and went climbing.
This is what it looked like when we were apporaching it:
Pic1: Aproaching "La canal de las balas". It doesn't look that step, does it?
Well... sometimes things are not just like they look like:
Pic2: Things getting interesting. The camera is not tilted in any way let me tell you.
Pic3: Didn't do too bad. Here we are about to get to the top of the route.
The way back was just walking... but in knee deep wet snow. What a pain in the ass! The climb was in the north face but the way back was fully exposed to sun and it was too late in the day.
We got back to the hut, dried our stuff, had dinner and went to bed. The alarm will wake us up at 4am. I have some kind of inner timer that allows me to wake up without the need of a watch so at 3:45 or so I went out to see if it was freezing (and to take a leak as well... LOL). Bad news. It was NOT freezing. The snow was soft, it was cloudy and rainning a little bit. Back to the sleeping bag. Same happened at 5:30 and 7:30am. At 8am the sky was clear and it was freezing cold. This time we wanted to climb the "Neveron" route, just in front of the Urriello Hut. We ate something, took a shitload of gear and went climbing.
Pic4: Sometimes aproaching the climb is harder than the climb itself. This is my pal Manu struggling in mixted terrain.
Pic5: "It is ok, it is ok... don't worry... we will rope up a little bit higher". Manu told me at the beginning of the climb.
Pic6: Keep on climbing...
Pic7: "Do you think we are high enough to rope up Manu?" "Nah... it is not worth it, it gets easier as soon as we climb some more" Let me tell you that this was the first time we climbed the route so we had no idea about the route (just what we had read before).
Pic8: Keep on climbing.
Pic9: Keep on climbing.
Pic10: "See? We didn't need any ropes at all!" Said Manu about to top the route. "Yeah right... I just hate hauling all this beefy pack for nothing".
We were able to climb all the route unroped because it wasn't as step as we expected, the snow was soft enough so we could drive in about half of our boots and there was enough snow to avoid any mixed climbing. We found some rock at the end of the route, though. This is an East face.. so it gets sun all day. On the way back we stayed on the north face of the "Neveron de Urriello" Peak... and it was harder than we expected. Downclimbing it is always harder and slower.
We felt kind of stupid when we finished the route. Why did we haul oll this crap if we didn't use any of it? Well, gear is like condoms (or knives, or guns...): better have them and not use them... than don't having them and regret it!
Mikel
PD: Brian, it is not exacly leading because we didn't use any rope at all.. LOL, but I am getting closer! Next ones will be all roped up leading. We just switched leads in these two routes to take pictures.