The Plastic Pants Project

It really is a tricky thing. Can go wrong on you before you even know it. Truth be told, I wasn't 100% convinced on this one from the get go. I've been hit/miss with this style of sheath, especially when there is no change from handle to blade. My Sher Kumar Karda had a similar thing happen with that downward slope at the handle. Seems to be the culprit right there.

Most of the time I form and everything first, then cut, then drill holes and rivet, but I often cut too close to the blade and dont leave quite as much room for rivets as I'd like, so I tried this way. Clearly didn't work haha I'll probably flatten that piece out and use it for a KK papercutter sheath, eventually. I've got a whole list of projects right now, from polishing my KLVUK to building a vivarium for my new Carpet Python, but they're all getting done slowly.
 
I've not allowed enough room for the grommets many many times. I smack myself everytime but I'm a slow learner I guess.
 
Cool thread! Thanks for the how to SG. Ive never tried working with Kydex but looks fun. Nice press. If you run out of Kydex you could always make tortillas :thumbup:
 
Glad I'm not the only one around here Bawanna. I'm usually a quick study, but for those little holes get me every time.

Thanks ndog! I'm glad you're seeing it as a how to, cuz I was only thinking of it as a how I do! I would feel pretentious framing it that way, since I'm hardly an expert. I have read a lot of other people's how to's, as well as a few like this, and I like this better.

Plus, I don't want it to feel like anyone is correcting anyone else by commenting. As I said, I'm no pro. Anyone's advice, constructive criticism, ideas, or just plain 2 cents is much appreciated.
 
I had 2 cents once.....................been the victim of constructive criticism all my life, apparently still not 100% right I guess.
 
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Thanks ndog! I'm glad you're seeing it as a how to, cuz I was only thinking of it as a how I do! I would feel pretentious framing it that way, since I'm hardly an expert. I have read a lot of other people's how to's, as well as a few like this, and I like this better.

Plus, I don't want it to feel like anyone is correcting anyone else by commenting. As I said, I'm no pro. Anyone's advice, constructive criticism, ideas, or just plain 2 cents is much appreciated.

Oh Heck no! I suck up everything I can from anyone that gets results like you do. Great job! Im a leather man but have recently began to appreciate Kydex a bit more. KLVUK for example is great in Kydex. You dont have to worry about scratching the blade or soaking up water and such. It does have its place and I will try doing it someday. Swamp blades are great in Kydex. Keep the pic coming! Im enjoying it!
 
I plan on another attempt today. In the mean time, here's what I've been doing during while the kydex is pressing/cooling. I've gotten a little farther than this, but I forgot to take pics. All I'm using is the WS on the right, and some good old fashioned sand paper.









 
I started to do that on one of my KLVUK's awhile back. The scale was tough and I didn't want to put the time in.

A 10 minute soak in Apple Vinegar soaked paper towels and all the black was gone and ready for polishing if a polish is in the plan.
I left mine with the patina and use it far more than any others.
 
Very cool SG! Yep that scale is hard! Is that a wooden platten (push stick) for your worksharp? I thought i was the only one guilty of that? I use a folded up rag behind the belt sometimes too. Bare fingers get really hot really fast. Hey! I just got an ideer? I wonder if you could put the belt on inside out and push from the front so you could see what your doing? Just put the knife behind the belt. Know what I mean? Ill try that today on mine with some scrap?
Cant wait to see this outcome. I too have always wanted to see one polished up. Try to leave the Kami marks if you can. Great job!
 
Ahh I forgot about the vinegar trick! Next time I'll do that. Thanks for the reminder.

Ndog, hate to burst your bubble, but you're still the only one who uses a push stick haha that's one of them cleaning sticks. Feels kinda like one of them gummy erasers you know? As for leaving the marks, that should be easy! This is an unmarked Keshar Lal, like many of his have been lately :cool: I'd actually really like a tagged one to polish up. I think the markings just add so much history to the blade.

As a thread update, it was absolutely gorgeous this weekend and the sheaths didn't get much attention. I'm sure they'll get more love this week!
 
Whaaaah! I have one of the cheepo Delta 1x30 sanders but no way you can use the platten on it for anything bigger than an inch or two. OK Ill keep me caveman ways and sit back and watch;) I dont think any of my KLVUKS have any marks?
 
I finally found some time to work on knife stuff, so I got busy. Pretty much done with the Western sheath now. It needs some finishing on the edges, maybe another couple holes too. Don't have much time to post here on my lunch break, so I'll keep it picture-heavy.

I'll add captions later


















 
Damn, looking good SG.

Is it easy to move the straps? Looks like it's just screws, Just asking, I'm right handed, so I'll need to switch the loops to the other side for a right handed draw it it's behind my back. A few more holes on the "spine side" would be great, in case it needs to be vertically carried.
 
I'm sure that's not legal in California. Best save yourself the legal hassle and send that directly to Bawanna.
He's a gosh durn outlaw anyhow and it's still legal up here. (barely).

I do this as a public service, no thanks necessary.

Personally I'd carry it crossdraw so you can draw it with either hand. Excellent get off me knife when they are trying to grab your 1911 off your right hip.

I won't be sitting by the mail box waiting. I don't have a good feeling on this one.
 
I use a push stick after grinding a knuckle literally to the bone and having magic surgery make it look more gooder.
 
The loops are as simple as they look, just the Chicago screws attaching them. Don't know if "easy" is the best word to describe moving them though, it was kind of a PIA. It'll probably get easier the more it's done though. Saw some loops with a button to undo the loop part. That would be nice for getting on and off the belt, but if the buttons release, so can the sheath. No bueno.

I am planning more holes on the spine, up to the same point the top loop is now. The only caveat is that I can't rivet them, or retention would be too tight. This would also be the case if you attached something to any of the unrivited holes and crank the screw down.

Just as an FYI, turning that loop towards the handle as all that is necessary for vertical carry, I tried it, but having 2 loops would be better.

I have yet to play with a paracord method, but I'm still considering it. These loops are good, but the knife sits a bit loose on the belt. I'd prefer it snug up against the body to avoid printing, as I'm sure you would too, cul.

I've got some more free time in the forseeable future, so hopefully I can bang out the bowie sheath and finish work in one or two more solid work sessions!
 
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The loops are as simple as they look, just the Chicago screws attaching them. Don't know if "easy" is the best word to describe moving them though, it was kind of a PIA. It'll probably get easier the more it's done though.

I am planning more holes on the spine, up to the same point the top loop is now. The only caveat is that I can't rivet them, or retention would be too tight. This would also be the case if you attached something to any of the unrivited holes and crank the screw down.

Just as an FYI, turning that loop towards the handle as all that is necessary for vertical carry, I tried it, but having 2 loops would be better.

I have yet to play with a paracord method, but I'm still considering it. These loops are good, but the knife sits a bit loose on the belt. I'd prefer it snug up against the body to avoid printing, as I'm sure you would too, cul.

I've got some more free time in the forseeable future, so hopefully I can bang out the bowie sheath and finish work in one or two more solid work sessions!

You right, tighter on the belt would be best. Bawanna has a good point about the crossdraw. I see how the vertical carry would work, that second loop would probably be best if taken off, but the screw would need to be put back though, to keep tension, right?
 
Currently the loops are attached to rivited holes, and removing them would not affect tention on the blade. That is only gonna be an issue on holes that aren't rivited, like the highest hole up by the gaurd. That one is gonna be a tensioning screw that will be used to adjust retention at the gaurd, but I'm missing one little part right now. Does that make any sense?
 
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