The Price of a Name, and Diminishing Returns

[Hackenslash]

No, just practical science. Folding knives as so simple and primitive. Obviously a lot of those that design folding knives have NO engineering background judging from the design. You cannot tell whether the pivot point is the weak point of knives with BALL It's so easy to do it right and OBVIOUSLY the designers has NO BASIC COMMON SENSE. You really have to buy, open and judge, not by the name, but by looking at it.
I am an engineer, so don't tell me whether I know about basic simple stuffs like this. Folding knives are so simple!!!

I’m sure there are many Knife designers who could benefit from your engineering.

If you’re worrying about the pivot of a folding knife failing, you’ve probably got the wrong tool for the job. That’s not engineering.

It's good that they developed the flipper tab. It's safer. You practice knife fight on heavy kicking bag? Try it, try combination of slashing and shanking. all it takes is one time out of concentration and forget to squeeze and you might injure yourself. Why take the chance?

A frame lock flipper would never be the preferred knife style for self-defense. Check out the Spyderco Civilian/Matriarch. That represents an entire genre of ideal SD knives and none have a flipper tab.

 

[alan0354]

I’m sure there are many Knife designers who could benefit from your engineering.

If you’re worrying about the pivot of a folding knife failing, you’ve probably got the wrong tool for the job. That’s not engineering.

If you are in emergency situation, you likely don't have your tool box. The knife is ALL you might have. That knife has to be able to do everything that you need to to survive. Like if you stuck in a car, you CANNOT count on having a pry bar or other tools in the glove compartment you can reach. What if you are on the driver seat, or worst in the back seat, you cannot reach the glove compartment no matter what tools are in it. You have only what's in your pocket.

The one I carry is the Steel Will WarBot
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SM...d-clip-point-combo-blade-od-green-g10-handles

It has glass breaker, thick blade, PB washer(strong pivot area), serrated edge. Best survival knife with long flipper TAB. I bought over 20 knives to settle on this one. decent price, not super hard blade. It's 6oz heavy, it generates more momentum when slashing and shanking.

On top, pivot pin is 0.25" diameter, both side plate in the handle is 0.055" thick. This knife can take a beating. Only $79.

 

[alan0354]

A frame lock flipper would never be the preferred knife style for self-defense. Check out the Spyderco Civilian/Matriarch. That represents an entire genre of ideal SD knives and none have a flipper tab.

I particular dislike Spyderco, I think the picture I shown that I consider worst is Spyderco. Like I ask, have you ever strike a rubber knife on a heavy bag to get the feel of what is important? I practice REGULARLY. Try it, talk is cheap, actually use a rubber knife and work on slashing and shanking on the heavy bag and come back and tell me your experience.

I can tell you I had a few times the knife shoved back a little into my hand from lack of concentration after doing extend period of combination of slashing and shanking. It's not something you want to take your chance. Problem is when you slash, you relax your hand to get speed, then the last moment of shanking, you squeeze. Like boxing, if you tighten your hand, you lost speed. You have to relax the hand to get the speed. Then you squeeze the hand right before contact.

Ask any boxer or martial artist, they will tell you that you DO NOT tighten the muscle during the movement, you tense up at the last moment right before contact that maximize speed. It's the tense/relax/tense/relax cycles that after a while, you get confused and all it take is ONE TIME.

The best of cause are Ka-Barr fixed blade style, they have protection like that built in, that the blade won't get shoved into your hand.

 

[alan0354]

..............

 

[DangerZone98]

I don’t consider myself an expert collector by any means, and this is a tricky question. Take a Sebenza knife for instance. Unless we know the exact operational and material costs down to the last dollar, you could make an argument for either case. On one hand, it’s a fairly priced knife since you’re paying for the quality materials and level of precision that went into crafting the knife. On the other hand, you could also say that folks are paying for the good reputation of a Chris Reeve knife.

I don’t think there’s a cut and dried answer to this question. Maybe past the $150 to $200 mark, you’re almost always paying for a name at varying degrees. When you buy a $250 Spyderco, Benchmade, or Zero Tolerance, the name will be part of the price. The same exact knife without the well-known logos will probably cost a few dollars less.

At the end of the day, I wouldn’t worry about it too much. They’re just tools for cutting. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

[J. Doyle]

No, just practical science. Folding knives as so simple and primitive it's barely above stone age.

Still waiting for you to make one "correctly", since they're so very easy......and your extensive engineering and math prowess is so far above everyone else. Ought to be a real lucrative side hustle for you.

Who cares about the terms as long as people know what I mean.

Knife people care. Especially when considering the irony of you lecturing everyone about how stupid and easy folding knife design is and constantly using terms like "tank" and "tap".

The critical thickness of the blade at the pivot can be as thin as 0.03"!!! They thin it out to fit the bearings without thinking. Then there's the quite popular brand "OFF_GRID" knife. I bought the baby Rhino with ball bearings. The pivot part is beefy as it should be. Then I bought another bigger one and open up. They thin out on the side plate to PAPER THIN on both sides to fit the bearings!!! HOW STUPID ARE THEY. Even pivot point should not be the most stressed point, but thin like that, you can develop cracks during the processing of milling!!!

I'd like to see your post explaining in great detail how the bearing pocket area would receive any stress and how much stress it actually takes. Please include all appropriate geometry/algebra/trigonometry formulas......written out longhand. Show your work.

I watch so many folding knives disassembly on youtube and look at the pivot part. Most are very thin like 0.03" to 0.04". It's so easy to do it right and OBVIOUSLY the designers has NO BASIC COMMON SENSE. You really have to buy, open and judge, not by the name, but by looking at it.

Then show us how to do it right. Try it yourself....show us, don't just talk. (Isn't that your catch phrase you're so fond of touting around here?)

I finally gave up and only buy knives with FB washers.

What are FB washers? Is fb for Facebook?

I am an engineer, so don't tell me whether I know about basic simple stuffs like this. Folding knives are so simple!!!

Again.....can't wait for you to show us.

 

[Hashishiin]

I particular dislike Spyderco, I think the picture I shown that I consider worst is Spyderco. Like I ask, have you ever strike a rubber knife on a heavy bag to get the feel of what is important? I practice REGULARLY. Try it, talk is cheap, actually use a rubber knife and work on slashing and shanking on the heavy bag and come back and tell me your experience.

I can tell you I had a few times the knife shoved back a little into my hand from lack of concentration after doing extend period of combination of slashing and shanking. It's not something you want to take your chance. Problem is when you slash, you relax your hand to get speed, then the last moment of shanking, you squeeze. Like boxing, if you tighten your hand, you lost speed. You have to relax the hand to get the speed. Then you squeeze the hand right before contact.

Ask any boxer or martial artist, they will tell you that you DO NOT tighten the muscle during the movement, you tense up at the last moment right before contact that maximize speed. It's the tense/relax/tense/relax cycles that after a while, you get confused and all it take is ONE TIME.

The best of cause are Ka-Barr fixed blade style, they have protection like that built in, that the blade won't get shoved into your hand.

Yes, I've slashed using my Matriarch trainer, folding Endura trainer, my Matriarch, my Espada, Voyager, and I trust them for a reason. The knives I am prepared to draw for any strenuous use have a deep choil that provides a guard effect. Yojimbo, Yojumbo, Police 4, Espada XL, any of 'em. I don't need no steenking "tap".

You are going to tell me about a framelock or linerlock being better than the compression lock and backlock/Triad? You twist most of those wrong and you unlock it, there are members here who cut their fingers dispatching a critter that suddenly thrashed, much like forces that may be exerted in a fight. Makes me cringe to think of using that.

Finns in the Winter War fought with Puukkos, not that I'd recommend it, but I have models like the Benchmade 200, safe to stab stuff with. The Kabar is a great general purpose hunk of metal, but I'd take my Espada XL. 7.5" blade dwarfing the Kabar, with the reach of the handle, it swings like a shortsword, you want raw power.

 

[dericdesmond]

Oy. Have you seen sneakers lately? I mean, to me, sneakers are shoes you wear to play sports. Wear them out, buy new ones. Essentially disposable foot covers. Tell that to a sneakerhead.

Sneakers attract the ladies/promote life
Normally the second thing they notice after your face. If your on the prowl shoes are most definitely more than just disposable foot covers. If ugly like me step up your shoe game and thank me later

 

[Blues]

And...that's a wrap.