The " Roosters " are crowing for the " Farmers"

A ceramic rod sharpener did the trick. Not my greatest work but it is shaving hair…just.
Thanks!
It's always interesting how people are sharpening their hawkbill pruners.🙂👍 I used my kme with straight and triangle stones, but the curve of the blade isn't as nice as before.
Maybe I'll try a rod sharpener the next time. Did you do it free hand?
Or, as others suggested here before, I'll get a Quadsharp or Sharpmaker.
 
Finally got to join the club thanks to a generous friend 🙂

This one made it down to Australia safe and sound. Gave it a quick sharpen just now and harvested my first fig with it. I have over 30 fruit trees so this knife will see quite a bit of work.
View attachment 2817093


Good deal. As my Mamaw said pretty is as pretty does. It looks good down under.
For some reason I've always been sharpening challenged , but when I carried a FJ I used crock sticks.👍👍
 
Thanks!
It's always interesting how people are sharpening their hawkbill pruners.🙂👍 I used my kme with straight and triangle stones, but the curve of the blade isn't as nice as before.
Maybe I'll try a rod sharpener the next time. Did you do it free hand?
Or, as others suggested here before, I'll get a Quadsharp or Sharpmaker.

I had to do it freehand. I’m not the greatest sharpener but it’s the only way I could manage it for this blade.
I don’t have any of those fancy sharpening setups, maybe someday!
 
I had to do it freehand. I’m not the greatest sharpener but it’s the only way I could manage it for this blade.
I don’t have any of those fancy sharpening setups, maybe someday!
Thank you, that sounds good. Maybe I take this method also into consideration, but practice before on my Case hawkbill or on a cheaper victorinox gardening knife. I switched to a guided sharpening system some years ago, after ruining some of my nice old GEC's.
 
I’ve not done one of those but I’ve done similar blades with success, let me know if you need something done
G2
 
Here is some advice from the horse's mouth: Thos. Turner catalogue c.1902. 18 Shillings ( 0.90 GBP) a dozen and note what it says at the bottom about oiling joints.......

I use a diamond rod, Sharpmaker can do it too.

View attachment 2818982
Thank you for posting this nice old page, the pictures are showing it quite vivid. I have some ceramic rods with different shapes from spyderco to practice with. I also read good things about the sharpmaker, it's on my list for sure.
Rooster amongst the flock
View attachment 2819065
Great picture!
 
Here is some advice from the horse's mouth: Thos. Turner catalogue c.1902. 18 Shillings ( 0.90 GBP) a dozen and note what it says at the bottom about oiling joints.......

I use a diamond rod, Sharpmaker can do it too.

View attachment 2818982
Thank you for sharing this, Will! Very, very interesting and useful.


Also it raises my long-favorite question about sharpening:
"If drawn along the stone with the BACK fisrt, as in stropping a razor, a firm edge cannot be obtained".

I ask - why? When I finish sharpening and transition to fine grit stone, I always draw blade with the back first. Never got a negative result, neither a negative feedback when sharpen someone's blade.
 
Thank you for sharing this, Will! Very, very interesting and useful.


Also it raises my long-favorite question about sharpening:
"If drawn along the stone with the BACK fisrt, as in stropping a razor, a firm edge cannot be obtained".

I ask - why? When I finish sharpening and transition to fine grit stone, I always draw blade with the back first. Never got a negative result, neither a negative feedback when sharpen someone's blade.
I do the same thing when I switch to my final stone. I always found it helps with burr removal.
 
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