The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Beautiful piece, man! Just remember that cocobolo dust is infamously toxic, causing skin, lung, and eye irritation, so exercise caution when you work with it and wear protection.Man I love me some coco.
Picked up a piece for myself recently, not sure what I’ll do with it.
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Very nice! How did you sharpen?Finally got to join the club thanks to a generous friend
This one made it down to Australia safe and sound. Gave it a quick sharpen just now and harvested my first fig with it. I have over 30 fruit trees so this knife will see quite a bit of work.
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Very nice! How did you sharpen?
Thanks!A ceramic rod sharpener did the trick. Not my greatest work but it is shaving hair…just.
Finally got to join the club thanks to a generous friend
This one made it down to Australia safe and sound. Gave it a quick sharpen just now and harvested my first fig with it. I have over 30 fruit trees so this knife will see quite a bit of work.
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Spectacular piece of wood, Jack!! It'll make a nice knife!! (or two??)Man I love me some coco.
Picked up a piece for myself recently, not sure what I’ll do with it.
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Thanks!
It's always interesting how people are sharpening their hawkbill pruners.I used my kme with straight and triangle stones, but the curve of the blade isn't as nice as before.
Maybe I'll try a rod sharpener the next time. Did you do it free hand?
Or, as others suggested here before, I'll get a Quadsharp or Sharpmaker.
Thank you, that sounds good. Maybe I take this method also into consideration, but practice before on my Case hawkbill or on a cheaper victorinox gardening knife. I switched to a guided sharpening system some years ago, after ruining some of my nice old GEC's.I had to do it freehand. I’m not the greatest sharpener but it’s the only way I could manage it for this blade.
I don’t have any of those fancy sharpening setups, maybe someday!
Thank you for posting this nice old page, the pictures are showing it quite vivid. I have some ceramic rods with different shapes from spyderco to practice with. I also read good things about the sharpmaker, it's on my list for sure.Here is some advice from the horse's mouth: Thos. Turner catalogue c.1902. 18 Shillings ( 0.90 GBP) a dozen and note what it says at the bottom about oiling joints.......
I use a diamond rod, Sharpmaker can do it too.
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Great picture!Rooster amongst the flock
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Thank you for sharing this, Will! Very, very interesting and useful.Here is some advice from the horse's mouth: Thos. Turner catalogue c.1902. 18 Shillings ( 0.90 GBP) a dozen and note what it says at the bottom about oiling joints.......
I use a diamond rod, Sharpmaker can do it too.
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I do the same thing when I switch to my final stone. I always found it helps with burr removal.Thank you for sharing this, Will! Very, very interesting and useful.
Also it raises my long-favorite question about sharpening:
"If drawn along the stone with the BACK fisrt, as in stropping a razor, a firm edge cannot be obtained".
I ask - why? When I finish sharpening and transition to fine grit stone, I always draw blade with the back first. Never got a negative result, neither a negative feedback when sharpen someone's blade.