The Ultimate Lubricant Thread

I tried INOX oil on my knives because it was referenced as being "food grade" by the seller on his Ebay store which specializes in SAK's. However when I read the can, there was no reference to this. Another reason I don't care for INOX oil is it turned my knives into dust magnets. Worse than any other lubricant I have ever used!
 
Hoppes will work fine on knives, but it isn't a premium lubricant or rust protectant, though it will do both well enough to get by. If you feel like using it to clean your tactical folders (I would hesitate to use it around light colored natural or synthetic stuff, or finely finished wood) then it won't hurt anything, nor will you need to worry about drying it off and lubing immediately to prevent rust, like I do when I use an ultrasonic bath of simple green (used to use hot water and toothbrush).
 
Coldwood said:
Sam, I would politely disagree about the use of mineral oil on the blade of a knife for food cutting. Mineral oil is a petroleum distillate. Like kerosene. Great for cleaning blades, but not for eating. Olive oil, at least the olive oil that I buy, does not go rancid. I cook with it all the time.
Don Craig, Saranac, NY
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Note the other link about mineral oil. It's been used as a laxative for years. It ain't gonna hurt you. And a drop isn't going to act as a laxative, either; You need tablespoons full for that.

As far as olive oil, all vegetable oils go rancid over time. Probably not a problem on a knife blade that you clean regularly. I used to use it on my bench stones when sharpening kitchen knives since my wife didn't want a petroleum based honing oil on her food knives. One of those stones developed a "garbagy" smell that I attributed to rancid oo.

But, to each their own. That's why they make more than one type of oil.

-- Sam
 
I use Militec-1 for all knives where metal makes contact with metal. On metal on plastic knives (FRN Spydies for instance) I like to use 3-in-One or Outer's gun oil. For some stainless knives I use DuPont dry film Teflon, but be careful the solvent that the Teflon is suspended in will eat plastic. I use WD-40 usually to clean out really dirty knives, then I'll run super hot tap water and maybe dish soap on them while manipulating the pivot. Then I shake off any excess water and finish with a hair dryer to get any stray water out. Then I lubricate. That technique will fix most funked up knives. I still haven't tried FP10 or Tuff-Glide.

Shao
 
ParaGlock said:
Note the other link about mineral oil. It's been used as a laxative for years. It ain't gonna hurt you. And a drop isn't going to act as a laxative, either; You need tablespoons full for that.
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Agreed, they actually sell this stuff called "Food Grade" mineral oil and they recommend using it to wipe down your wooden cutting boards and kitchen blades. It's like $3 for a huge bottle of it.

Shao
 
mamba-man said:
WD-40, 3-in-one... Militec-1, Breakfree CLP, Mineral Oil... White Lightning
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I have all of these, and use them for different purposes, i.e. WD-40 for cleaning or water displacement after washing with soap and water, but not for lubrication or rust prevention. For lubrication I mostly use Militec-1, and tuf-cloth for preventing rust. I still keep the Breakfree and White Lightning in case I run out of (or lose) the Militec.
 
Coldwood said:
has anybody used Hoppe's No. 9 gun solvent on knives?
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I wouldn't put it near a knife that had a fiberglass, epoxy or plastic components like FRN or G-10. One guy reported that with Hoppe's #9 he "dissolved 2 sets of plastic grips and took some of the finish off of a polymer coated pistol"
 
Django606 said:
I use this stuff: http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/CRC+2-26?openDocument

It says it's for electrical, but it works very well on my knife pivots. It is also plastic safe, for those of you who are worried about FRN handles, etc.
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That's CRC 2-26. I wouldn't use it. It contains

PETROLEUM DISTILLATE >60% (goodbye plastic!)
MINERAL OIL (SOLVENT REFINED) 10 - 30% (ok)
DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL METHYL ETHER C7-H16-O3 <10% (glycol ethers are toxic)
CORROSION INHIBITORS) (which are?)
 
ridgewalker said:
I tried INOX oil on my knives because it was referenced as being "food grade" by the seller on his Ebay store which specializes in SAK's. However when I read the can, there was no reference to this. Another reason I don't care for INOX oil is it turned my knives into dust magnets. Worse than any other lubricant I have ever used!
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This is an interesting product. MSDS says it is food grade. I'm looking for the ingredients now ...

inoxdouble%20small.jpg
 
The Australian INOX website (Candan Industries) proudly proclaims the use of PTFE (PolyTetraFluoroEthylene - see above) in their range. I guess they think that's food grade!

Call them and ask if INOX-MX3 contains PTFE before buying or using it further, IMO.
 
mamba-man said:
I wouldn't put it near a knife that had a fiberglass, epoxy or plastic components like FRN or G-10. One guy reported that with Hoppe's #9 he "dissolved 2 sets of plastic grips and took some of the finish off of a polymer coated pistol"
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It won't attack G-10 and most polymers in quality cutlery, I'd think twice before using it on something made with cheap rubber products or regular plastic (think S.A.K. handles). My Wegner sak did NOT like one of the solvents I used on it, it may have been Gunscrubber but I don't want to admit to being that stupid... so let's just leave it at that. If hoppes damaged stuff like G-10 and the fancy polymer handles on knives then Glock would have been raising hell to keep people from using it on their pistols.

Edit: FRN and G10 are both impervious to hoppes, Gunscrubber, and everything else I've gotten on them, which is to say alot of stuff.
 
G-10 is classed as having good resistance to solvents. It's a glass fabric combined with a halogen-free epoxy resin, so it should be quite hardy. It's VERY heat resistant and is used in computer boards.

I'm trying to find data on how it reacts to petrochemical exposure. Looking into FRN too. I suspect FRN is much less tough.
 
Hmm, first post but I think I can contribute here.

I use Ballistol, which I started using for my airguns and subsequently used for all my tools for oiling and rust protection.(www.ballistol.com for reference)

In Australia it's hard to find but I got hold of it at the gun shop on George street in Sydney.

Cheers,
Michael
 
G10 and G11 (Micarta) is probably ok with solvents:
"CHEMICAL RESISTANT TO: Broad chemical resistance"

Still, to play safe I wouldn't use petrochemicals like Hoppe's. There may be polymer bushings inside the knife that will suffer damage.
 
The key ingredient of FRN (fiberglass reinforced nylon) is nylon.

"Nylon (NYL) polyamide is a group of linear polymers with repeating amide linkages along the backbone. These are produced by an amidation of diamines with dibasic acids, or polymerisation of amino acids. Nylon is strong and tough. It resists abrasion, fatigue and impact. Nylon offers excellent chemical resistance with negligence permeation rates when used with organic solvents. However, it has poor resistance to strong mineral acids, oxidizing agents and certain salts."

Again, YMMV, but why chance it?
 
Yes, the INOX-mx3. That's the stuff I tried. It appears from your website link that it is approved as food grade in Australia but not in the USA. That must be why it doesn't say food grade on the can. But man, it sure is a dust magnet. It's incredible the way it attracts dust. Even after wiping it off.

I would be interested in hearing about the dust attracting properties of the other lubricants being discussed. I know WD-40 has a reputation for attracting dust.
 
mmmm said:
I use Ballistol, which I started using for my airguns and subsequently used for all my tools for oiling and rust protection.(www.ballistol.com for reference)
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The Ballistol MSDS shows the major ingredient is MEDICINAL GRADE WHITE MINERAL OIL (>90%). The other ingredients are proprietary. I'd stick to the real mineral oil myself rather than using a secret formulation.
 
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