The *Unofficial* Fiddleback maintenence, care, optimization, and improvement thread!

For those people wanting to keep their Fiddlebacks patina free and very shiny (thurin), I learned about this product from the straight razor crowd.



All of my razors are carbon steel (as are most razors) and those guys swear by this stuff. I am sure that you will knock it off readily with use, but in between uses is where this stuff works well, especially in humid environments. Clean and polish your blade, wipe it with this stuff and put it away.
 
McVeyMac said:
All of my razors are carbon steel (as are most razors) and those guys swear by this stuff. I am sure that you will knock it off readily with use, but in between uses is where this stuff works well, especially in humid environments. Clean and polish your blade, wipe it with this stuff and put it away.
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I dunno why but it never worked perfectly for me. I always get small rust spots with it. Eezox has worked the best for me but when I return to Philippines I am going to give Ren Wax a try there and see how it holds up.

Anyone tried Burt's Beeswax? Would be nice to have something that is easy to carry, food safe, and mess free for in the field.
 
Well crap. I just started using this on razors. I have yet to use it on my knives. It sure does stink pretty badly, so I do not think it would be good for food prep knives.
 
For me, any of the deoxidizers / polishes will function relatively the same. For preservation / storage, mineral oil has been unrivaled. If you are using your knife for food prep, shaving, game processing, pirate fighting, etc., consider rinsing the blade thoroughly after using any sort of metal polish as the stuff is toxic. With that said, I do not have experience with the above stated product, however in my experience, the straight razor crowd knows their stuff FWIW. I have been recently playing around with badger balm on my handle scales (still using mineral oil for my blades) and it has proven effective against drying and shrinkage (it also smells pleasant).

Thanks for keeping this thread alive guys; as always I'd rather be teaching someone to fish (or having someone teach me to fish) as opposed to giving them a fish (or being given a fish) ;)

Keep the knowledge coming
 
Thanks dude -- I've been up to my ears in a move, and have had little time for the forum :(.

As our community continues to grow, I welcome and encourage everyone willing to participate to keep sharing tidbits of knife maintenance wisdom with the rest of the sharks out there!

If anyone out there has a fiddleback that they need help with (sharpening, fixing, restoring, etc), post in this thread (with a pic of the knife ) and I'll happily walk you through what needs to be done for 90% of typical wear and tear issues encountered. Note I will not discuss stock removal for obvious warranty reasons.

Until then, keep em sharp :thumbup:
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Another rust preventative trick that is food safe is straight block paraffin from the grocery store rub it on and wipe off the excess. It's an old woodworkers trick for table saws, planes and such. I've had good luck with it.
 
Probably the best outcome of my recent knife enthusiasm was the purchase of the Apex. It's simple, consistent and produces the sharpest edge I've ever experienced. You could get similar results just using stones, if you're good at holding the angle.
In 10 minutes, I can create an edge better than any knife I ever bought.
 
I mentioned this in my Pass-Around review of the Bushfinger but I neglected to post this here. I use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser when I am cleaning micarta and G10 handles. I have found these erasers to work great, even on white G10.

I just noticed you can actually see the difference in this pic where I was cleaning. There is a line at the 2nd screw where you can see it. The uncleaned portion is from the 2 screw head back. It's very noticeable just in front of my thumb.
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Agreed -- I've also had good results with bar keeper's friend all purpose soft scrub cleaner; it removes patina, rust, and other gunk, however will leave behind a slight hazy patina as it is quite acidic itself. The secondary patina can be easily stropped away to leave the blade looking fresh & clean!
 
Tagged for later (I want to keep track of this thread). Thank you gentlemen for your time and insight!
 
I use an edgepro. The trick is identifying and understanding the original grind and bevel of the knife. It is much easy to sharpen the knife and get the hang of it before attempting to reprofile. I would advise taping the blade with masking tape to avoid scratching it up with the EP Stones. Use a magic marker on the edge to determine the original angle, and then make a plan.
 
TripleT said:
I use an edgepro. The trick is identifying and understanding the original grind and bevel of the knife. It is much easy to sharpen the knife and get the hang of it before attempting to reprofile. I would advise taping the blade with masking tape to avoid scratching it up with the EP Stones. Use a magic marker on the edge to determine the original angle, and then make a plan.
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I used your detailed advice that you had emailed with my edge pro and the result was a hair popping blade with a mirror edge :thumbup:
 
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