The VHG Belt Grinder Build - (PICTURE Heavy!)

For the spacer washer I just drilled out a piece of 5/8" 6061 aluminum bar stock with a 1/2" drill bit and then put a chamfer on both the inside and outside of the edge and parted it off. This is so that it works like an AR-15 crush washer. It worked out quite well.

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Greebe
 
Hi am trying to figure out how the idler is attached to the flaten.is thebolt tighten? Did you tighten the bolt against the bearings or the bolt is exactly length and tighten itselfs?
I am asking that because i need to make two idlers and want to use a standard 1/2" bolt and a spacer between the bearings.can you llease explain yoursetup?
Thanks
 
Haha, after how many years I finally am getting around to this project again. I have not worked on this because there have been way too many other things going on in my life. Well at least I can tell my sons that it is never to late to finish something. Hehe.

Pictures and an update will follow in the next few days.
 
Thanks guys. I made some more progress today and took pictures along the way. I have tomorrow to work on this and will get more done and post pictures this weekend sometime. It is getting so close to being done.

I have an order of 28 belts on the way from Trugrit as well. I am really excited that it is finally coming together.

I will post more in the next day or so.

Greebe
 
Here are a few more pictures of past work. This will get us updated for the most current work.

Cutting off the 6" wide 1/2" base.

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The following pictures are a 6" x 6" piece of 1/2" stock that is being drilled and tapped on the mill for the pillow blocks.

Using a Wiggler to spot the X.

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Center Drill

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Drill

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Tap with quickly tap guide made on the lathe.

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Finished hole and pillow blocks mounted.

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More to come.

Greebe
 
Alright here are some more progress pictures.

Here I am milling a 3/4" wide groove in the 1.25" square bar that will be the arm. I milled this groove so that there would be clearance for the weld seem in the sqaure tube and so that the locking bolt will not mar the surface of the arm over time and cause it to bind in the tube.

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Here are a few pictures of the hinge for the idler wheel. It is made from 3/8" hot rolled flat bar. The hole is drilled in the hinge about 1 thou offset to make the pin bind just enough to hold it in without any problems of it coming loose.

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I am going top post more pictures of where and how these parts all go together so keep an eye out for updates.

Greebe
 
Thanks for the compliment. If I said this was going to be made the easy way, I was wrong, that is for sure.:D I have way over built and complicated this thing. One thing is for sure, is that this will be a stout and well built grinder.
 
Some more pictures of the build.

Here are a bunch of the progress pictures after I got the frame welded up and painted.

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Nice work sir!
Just curious what you did for crowning the tracking wheel?
Multiple tapers cut on compound slide?
I was thinking about trying to turn a ballpein hammer head in the lathe but am trying to figure out the best way to do a radiused cut.
Thinking about just grinding a custom tool for it but that probably wouldn't be feasible at the scale of your tracking wheel.
 
You can do it one of at least three ways. The drive wheel has a 6 degree included angle.

1. Set your compound to 3 degrees (Half the value of your included angle) with the wheel of the compound to the right. Then make your first taper cut on the front of the workpiece on the chuck side with the spindle turning in forward. Then advance your cross slide to the back of the workpiece and cut the tailstock side of the taper with the spindle in reverse. If you do it this way you are guaranteed a perfectly symmetrical tapered wheel.

2. Again set your compound to 3 degrees (Half the value of your included angle) with the wheel of the compound to the right. Then make your first taper cut as before but then to cut the other side simply reverse the workpiece on the chuck and proceed with you next taper cut. This might be your only option depending on how much cross slide travel you have.

3. The last option is to set the compound to 3 degrees left and cut one taper with the spindle in forward and then change the compound to the right to cut the other taper. This option works fine but if your setup with the compound is not exactly the the same then the crown on your wheel will be off. Even is you are less then half a degree off you will notice it on something like this.

The way I cut the drive wheel was on a mandrel between centers and then just flipped it end for end to cut the other taper. Essentially this is like method #2, but instead of having it in a chuck I used a mandrel so that the outside taper cuts would be exactly centered on the drive shaft hole.

I cut the tracking wheel with method #1. I have some pictures of making the tracking wheel that I will post soon.

Home that helps. I am not sure exactly what kind of cut you are looking to make on you hammer. If you have an example of what you are looking to make I could probably help you out. Feel free to send me an email.

Greebe
 
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