The "WIP" Thread - What was your project today?

[REK Knives]

WOW very nice work on that sniper. I really like the look of the black blade against the snake skin scales. I didn't realize I was in a thread with such pros.
Ya so that sander is variable speed harbor freight special. Bought it just to sand the deck then ended up getting in to knife making. It is working for now.
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Thanks man. Dude that is awesome I never would have thought of that!

Very nice work, Josh.

Here is some sharpening work I have for tonight/tomorrow....

WOW Jason, looks like you have your work cut out for you!! I don't envy you fixing the gyuto!!

Tell me about it, lol. This 1111 was reground below .02" and I pushed it too hard, also rippled the primary prior:
..The transformation on that Sniper is totally insane dude.
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Might have to look at one of those varible speed Harbor Freight sanders to compliment my 1x30. I made a thread a few weeks ago about the mod I did on it for water cooled grinding here. To put the bevel on the machete above, I actually used a waterstone +base to shim the rear feet of my grinder at 15° (phone app to set angles), so all I had to do was keep the blade vertical.

Man that blow out is CRAZY! Did you fix it? I think it is best to set your edge angle first, and get that dialed in, then after you know what your edge can handle regrind the primary to thin it out, but I generally stay at least .030" thick for choppers, most of the time .035-.040" at 15 dps.

I saw your water cooled thread, very ingenous of you. Way to go figuring that out!!

 

[inkynate]

Man that blow out is CRAZY! Did you fix it? I think it is best to set your edge angle first, and get that dialed in, then after you know what your edge can handle regrind the primary to thin it out, but I generally stay at least .030" thick for choppers, most of the time .035-.040" at 15 dps.

That 1111 was purchased on the Exchange post-regrind, in retrospect I probably should have asked for more info on exactly how thin it was before purchasing and/or gone a little easier on it.

I did not fix it, but I emailed Busse with a couple questions and explicitly said I was NOT looking for any warranty coverage b/c I knew they didn't cover modifications done outside of their shop (a sensible position, imo). Jerry got back to me and asked me to send it in so they could look at it.

After a couple of weeks, he reminded me that they don't cover this sort of thing, then pretty much insisted on giving me full shop credit anyway, even after I said I was totally fine with them sending it back. Then I even tried to argue that they should only give me partial credit based on what actually paid, but he wouldn't hear it. All I can say is their CS is legendary for a reason :thumbup:

Totally agree with setting the edge bevel angle first before thinning the primary, especially on larger, harder use knives. That's the plan on my machete project.

RIP:

Luckily I already scored a stock replacement for it on the exchange here, Busse didn't have any blanks left, I'll just apply the credit to one of my orders.

 

[REK Knives]

Busse is awesome!!!
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This was one of my projects for today... Well, the last few days, lol. It had a weird dimple in the middle of the edge where it wasn't making contact with the cutting board, it was giving me fits trying to correct the geometry. Then I (due to my ignorance) chisel ground the edge when it was supposed to be 70/30 I think, so when I talked to the owner he wanted it to be 50/50 so it work out. I'm no Jason B! Glad it turned out 😊

Here it was with the chisel edge

And here it is after I fixed it.

https://youtu.be/cFrkAf1MBJc

 

[Jason B.]

Just remember, laminate blades are always 50/50. Sharpening asymeteric will push the cutting edge into the soft cladding on either side.

70/30 Japanese knives typically have an asymeteric grind to the blade and edge. Front side is usually convex and the backside is flat. It's fairly noticeable. They are also rarely laminated.

 

[REK Knives]

Just remember, laminate blades are always 50/50. Sharpening asymeteric will push the cutting edge into the soft cladding on either side.

70/30 Japanese knives typically have an asymeteric grind to the blade and edge. Front side is usually convex and the backside is flat. It's fairly noticeable. They are also rarely laminated.

Thanks dude, I really appreciate this! I had no idea - I'll keep this in mind!

I think this one was a 50/50 blade grind with a 70/30 edge apparently, maybe not normal for this type of blade I'm guessing.

 

[Jason B.]

Japanese believe in asymetery and even blades that should be 50/50 will sometimes have a slight asymeteric edge bevel. It's done out of habit more than anything and ends up being very confusing for the end user. If you ever have any questions on J-blades don't hesitate to email or PM me.

 

[REK Knives]

Japanese believe in asymetery and even blades that should be 50/50 will sometimes have a slight asymeteric edge bevel. It's done out of habit more than anything and ends up being very confusing for the end user. If you ever have any questions on J-blades don't hesitate to email or PM me.

Awesome thanks bud, appreciate the insight on this one too!

 

[Elite_KG]

Cool thread. Ill catch you guy up on a little project tomorrow. Didnt take pics today, but I will tomorrow. Its still a WIP.

 

[REK Knives]

Cool thread. Ill catch you guy up on a little project tomorrow. Didnt take pics today, but I will tomorrow. Its still a WIP.

Looking forward to it!

 

[Elite_KG]

Handmade Mini-grip scales with only the modest of tools (dremel, small drill press, belt sander). Lot of time messing with these. Looking like they will turn out well.









Still require countersinking the screw holes and shaping to the final dimension. Getting close though...

(Pinstripes look green, but they are actually a pale yellow)

 

[Howieee]

Very nice Elite I would really like to learn to do folders some day.


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[leozinho]

Very nice work, Josh.

Here is some sharpening work I have for tonight/tomorrow.

Jason,
What's your routine with the Spydercos and other folders, compared to what you do with the kitchen knives? Assuming you use waterstones, I'd be interest in which stones you use, if you strop, etc.

Most of the info on waterstones is coming from guys that mostly seem to be into Japanese knives. So I'm interested in how a pro tackles modern stainless steels. (Don't say Shapton Glass - I don't have any of those. ).

Thanks.

 

[inkynate]

Two thumbs up on those Grip scales! :thumbup: :thumbup:

I'm going to want a drill press soon when I start doing some scales for the machete project and a few other blades I've been planning to re-handle. Don't think I'll want to get by with a vise and hand drill much longer, lol.
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I wasn't able to do any field testing this weekend due to rain and other commitments, but a neighbor asked me to help with a large branch that was downed in a recent storm (more like half the tree), so I ended up with a bunch of green River Birch wood to hack on and I did some chopping in my garage.

Nothing unexpected, the 15° per side edge bevel bit well but did bind a lot with the thin stock. There were some issues with blade flex and glancing, similar to what I've noticed with my 14" Tramontina in heavier work. The handle wrap was ok, but a bit thin and a couple sub-optimal strikes transmitted a fair amount of shock to the hand. Overall though, I didn't notice any damage to the edge and thought it did pretty well.

Obligatory pic:

I have plenty more wood, but didn't have a lot of time today, duty calls. I also couldn't resist breaking out my new 1111 while I was at it, so I only spent about 30 minutes with the Golok.

 

[MidnightSun]

Great thread here!

I had an idea this morning about doing a fluting pattern in titanium that looked like radiant light, so, after messing around on the computer half the day, I came up with my "Radiant Fluting" pattern, first for the Kershaw Link. I am super stoked with how it came out....

 

[REK Knives]

Nice job Elite!! You are doing an amazing job w/ what you have!! Wow.

Curtis those Link scales are insane! Thanks for sharing the pics =)

 

[Czechmate]

Working on my first sheath ever; a pine scabbard for this custom chopper (bottom knife in this pic.) :

As you can see I took a break from the sheath and wrapped the handle instead LOL... :foot: Many lessons have been learned on both these jobs so far; kudos to knifemakers who do this stuff daily... :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:



Black Micarta scale WIP for one of my Spyderco Gayle Bradley's; they'll be finished someday. :foot:

 

[Howieee]

Was able to get back to some grinding today. Really hope I can figure this flat grind out I was having a tough time.

 

[Jason B.]

Jason,
What's your routine with the Spydercos and other folders, compared to what you do with the kitchen knives? Assuming you use waterstones, I'd be interest in which stones you use, if you strop, etc.

Most of the info on waterstones is coming from guys that mostly seem to be into Japanese knives. So I'm interested in how a pro tackles modern stainless steels. (Don't say Shapton Glass - I don't have any of those. ).

Thanks.

Well, considering I use Shapton Glass stones then most of the time it's Shapton Glass stones 500 and 2000. I also have my secret weapon the Kohetsu 800 and 2000 which truthfully are the stones I use the most with J-knives. Lastly, my DMT Coarse and Fine get used for the really tough stuff with high Vanadium percentages.

 

[leozinho]

Well, considering I use Shapton Glass stones then most of the time it's Shapton Glass stones 500 and 2000. I also have my secret weapon the Kohetsu 800 and 2000 which truthfully are the stones I use the most with J-knives. Lastly, my DMT Coarse and Fine get used for the really tough stuff with high Vanadium percentages.

Thanks, Jason. I always appreciate your posts.

 

[Jason B.]

Here is the finished Gyuto that had the big chip... also discovered large left and right bends in the edge that I hammered out

The regrind,

The coarse stone,

Finish stone,

Etch and final sharpen,

Recently picked up a Native S110V on trade but was a tad thicker than I like a blade to be. So, after a belt sander diet and a fresh sharpening it's much nicer. Took it down to .015 from .027