Thoughts on a Suga variant

cul4u01 said:
To make the top one more of a fighter, the head of the blade should not be curved so much, maybe bring up the belly up a notch, and elongate the tip about a 1/4" or less.
Click to expand...

That makes sense, though at that point the blade becomes less a Suga variant and more an uncle bill especial or movie model with a curved handle and finger grooves. Move model is also double edged (just the tip).

yhst-7333098713883_2204_3834311


movie-model-3.jpg
 
KP513 said:
That makes sense, though at that point the blade becomes less a Suga variant and more an uncle bill especial or movie model with a curved handle and finger grooves. Move model is also double edged (just the tip).

You are right, that is what it would basically be. Assuming of course we want it as a fighter, if not, the lower one in your draft would be best, for use as a muti tasker, and it would also be a capable fighter.
Click to expand...
 
In terms of blade I originally imagined just a scaled down Suga blade without much of any modification.
 
Yep Cul the Jurali :) enjoying watching the evolution, can't wait to see the final concept
 
It actually means quite a bit to me that people want to see how the design turns out. Though that could be the fatigue and lack of sleep talking. And yet I can't go to sleep until I receive one last email. I hope to fall asleep as soon as I hit the pillow, if my insomnia will let me.
 
KP513 said:
Did a few slight variations on this one.

Click to expand...

I like the top drawing, but with the blade from the bottom drawing, that way the swedge can be sharpened, and it would be deadlier with the more pronounced length on the tip. The larger belly will also be helpful in miscellaneous tasks, such as food prep/skinning/field dressing/etc...
 
cul4u01 said:
I like the top drawing, but with the blade from the bottom drawing, that way the swedge can be sharpened, and it would be deadlier with the more pronounced length on the tip. The larger belly will also be helpful in miscellaneous tasks, such as food prep/skinning/field dressing/etc...
Click to expand...

Could you clarify? The only difference between the two in that picture is in the blade.
 
cul4u01 said:
It looks like the handle on the top one is a little more curved. If not, my apologies.
Click to expand...

Haha no need to apologize. There is a slight variation just based off of human error in drawing, but the curve is essentially the same. I can see why it looks that way though; I think it's because the angle is steeper on the inside of the handle than the outside.
 
One thing with the angled blade style, as opposed to the arced spine like the 19th century blades and the m43-very few khukuri come out of the scabbard fast, and none of them come out in a good position to respond to an incoming attack-that's the only weak point in the khukuri as a weapon-a little arc to the spine and making sure the tip stays below the arc, rather than rising back up, might help get it out quicker. The sharpened top edge would at least allow a back cut as part of the draw.
It might actually slow down initial accessing, since you'd have to keep it off the inside of the scabbard, but not as badly as the raised tip.
 
J W Bensinger said:
One thing with the angled blade style, as opposed to the arced spine like the 19th century blades and the m43-very few khukuri come out of the scabbard fast, and none of them come out in a good position to respond to an incoming attack-that's the only weak point in the khukuri as a weapon-a little arc to the spine and making sure the tip stays below the arc, rather than rising back up, might help get it out quicker. The sharpened top edge would at least allow a back cut as part of the draw.
It might actually slow down initial accessing, since you'd have to keep it off the inside of the scabbard, but not as badly as the raised tip.
Click to expand...

That brings up a good question. The Suga is a bit differently shaped, as is its scabbard. For those who own one, how quickly does it come out of the scabbard compared to kukris?
 
faster than normal khuks for sure, but only by a hair, I think its because of short blade not blade shape, but not sure at all.-- the ones that seem to have the most trouble are ones that have a sharp angle with a heavy drop, the ang khola part really acts as a stopper- this is kinda helpful as a bush knife, since you wont loose it easy when you are moving around.
 
My bonecutter by far is the hardest one to sheath and unsheath. My Sugas are really fast. They sheath and unsheath faster than my 15" Bowie, not as fast as the Trisul, obviously. My UBE is very fast too.
 
it is probably the smooth and thinner curves that make it faster, either way a very cool thread, love seeing stuff like this.
 
I really like JWs concept drawing. I'm not a fan of full hand finger grooves or the tall bolster/finger guard.
 
Well, I've come to my decision. Of all the different designs KP513 has so generously drawn up I have come to a decision.



The top of these two is my choice. It's replicates beautifully my original idea, while incorporating the—in my opinion—excellent suggestions from cul4u01 of adding jimping and some form of a guard.

So now the next thing to do is figure out how to get it made. I don't suppose anyone knows how to go about doing that? I know I'll have to talk to Auntie, but other than that I have little to no idea.
 
I think the top picture is great for what you are looking for, it would be a better fighter in my opinion, being that the swedge area is flatter, thus, making the backcut easier to execute; I would suggest a lanyard hole at the end of the handle to secure the knife from falling out of your hands while field dressing, or even if using it in a combat situation.

Next step would be to do all of the dimensions, face width, handle length and degree of arc, finger grooves, jimping deepness and length, sharpened swedge length, belly size and curve, spine thickness, OAL, etc... Send a pic with all of the dimensions, and production notes. Bawanna may be able to do a wooden model, so the kamis have something to work off of, but Bawanna would need to weigh in on that, because I don't know if it is a project he would like to tackle.

Whatever the case, if auntie says that the blade can be made, I would very much like to have one made for me too. Just have auntie bill me as usual.
 
Well to be honest, I was planning on just having a standard shaped Suga blade but 5" long instead of the standard lengths.
I believe KP513 labeled handle length on one of the early drawings, or if he didn't we can still get the amount of drop from the proportions.
Jimping depth, well I don't know how deep standard jimping is, but the standard depth works well, and 2/3" long seems like a good length.
Finger grooves I'd say can be the same size as the grooves on the standard Suga.
Spine: ≤1/4"
OAL can be derived from the drawings.

A lanyard hole would be nice, I can add that in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top