The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
It takes an excellent edge
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About an hour.Dang how long did that take to do? Looks amazing... well done!
That knife looks awesome, how did you get the finish on that clip? It looks like when I flame clips with a blowtorch but I get more of a matte finish.
what did you use? I'm new around here... only have arkansas stones/oil... and a green diamond paste strop. Just got my S110V pm2 a couple weeks ago and kind of dredding the day i got to sit down n sharpen it for first time?!![]()
Mines the best of both worlds it's polished with a 800 grit micro bevel.Keep in mind that polished edges are more for looks and less effective for most kinds of use/tasks. Unless you are going to use your PM2 for shaving and push cutting paper all a day a toothier 400-600 grit edge will be much better for EDC use.
Wicked edge thru grit progression from 100 grit- .25 micron.what did you use? I'm new around here... only have arkansas stones/oil... and a green diamond paste strop. Just got my S110V pm2 a couple weeks ago and kind of dredding the day i got to sit down n sharpen it for first time?! [emoji14]
That's still too fine for most EDC uses imo. Around 400 grit will likely cut most materials more effectively and hold its edge much longer. But, it's your knife and the polished edge does look cool in the pics.Mines the best of both worlds it's polished with a 800 grit micro bevel.
Wicked edge thru grit progression from 100 grit- .25 micron.
You're gonna want to get some diamond stones for this steel...your not gonna enjoy trying to sharpen it on a Arkansas stone.
I tried for a while but I couldn't get with the blurple. Just not for me.
So I did this:
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I mean that it isn't the typical blue loctite, must be the red or similar. It is the "permanent" type for sure. I sheared the tip off of a T8 bit (safety torx so it was hollow) trying to loosen the stop bar screws. It appears to only be applied every other screw alternating each side. I'm sure a soldering iron and a good Wiha bit can get the job done. But I have never had a knife that came with anything other than the "blue" type and that is that I use myself. I'm curious if anyone else with this knife can confirm? This isn't my first rodeo... but I have never seen anything like this from any manufacturer, certinly not any of my other Spydies.
I can confirm this on mine as well. I too wanted to perform a scale swap. Not to big on the purple. I like the boring colors I guess. Some screws weren't that difficult but others were really tough. I invested in some wiha drivers a while back due to stripping screws and I would suggest you get some as well if you intend to take the knife apart. I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to get one of the stop pin screws out. I used a wood burner to heat it up the screw head pretty darn hot. I had to use a set of tiny vice grips on the stop pin tightened up about as tight as they would go and still clamp down and my wiha driver on the screw to finally crack it. I did get it out though but not without significant effort. Without anyone of those tools I would definitely not have gotten it apart.
Mine wasn't that bad. It was a bit tight, but not to the level where I would have wanted to heat up the pivot in hot water.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...itary-2-Blurple-S110V?p=16564129#post16564129
I used a Kobalt microdriver set.
Miso