Tip damage from "over closing" Buck 110??

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Hello all,
I almost unquestionably love my 110. After unfortunately losing my early 1990s version on a hike, I purchased a new one for 2017. I like the subtle changes like smoothing the edges on the bolsters etc. One glaring fault has come to show, maybe on only my knife, maybe a common problem-- I'll ask you folks to chime in-- when you close the blade, there is not really a solid blade-stop that prevents the cutting edge from contacting the back of the channel when closing the blade. It seems as though the springs were designed to soften the closing action, but nothing prevents the blade from touching the back if you inadvertently squeeze the knife blade towards the channel after the knife has closed. I found this out after struggling to put the knife back in its sheath under many layers this winter. The next time I looked at the knife there was a very healthy flat spot-- almost a ding-- at the tip. I couldn't imagine what I had done with the tip of the knife (which I intentionally don't give much use due to its fragile taper) to cause such an issue. After examining how the blade can easily be pushed in contact with the channel I saw the point of contact matches with the flat spot precisely. Is this a design flaw? Common and understood problem and I should have been more careful when stowing the knife? Even so, how can brass ding 420HC with the legendary Bos heat treat? Yes it's not 3V, but still... Please tell me someone has done this before... Thanks much for your patience in reading this and for your thoughts.
 
wouldnt call it a design flaw myself, althougn there was a fella here who did believe this. they are all like this in the no stop pin for closing. i own many of them never had that issue...but its been addressed on here before.

i try to not let them snap closed and i carry in the sheath so it doesnt get pinched.

you should be able to straighten it out with a steel or sharpen it back. not much you can do but be careful on close and carry. although someone did a mod adding a stop pin but it seemed over the top to me, then again ive never had the problem myself.
 
wouldnt call it a design flaw myself, althougn there was a fella here who did believe this. they are all like this in the no stop pin for closing. i own many of them never had that issue...but its been addressed on here before.

i try to not let them snap closed and i carry in the sheath so it doesnt get pinched.

you should be able to straighten it out with a steel or sharpen it back. not much you can do but be careful on close and carry. although someone did a mod adding a stop pin but it seemed over the top to me, then again ive never had the problem myself.

I had the same thing happen to my 5160 carbon steel drop point version a couple of months ago I had to send it in

So it’s like this by design? I’ve been eyeing the s90v buck 110, but that may be a deal breaker for me. I’m sure they’re fantastic knives but I personally just dislike if it allows contact with the back.
 
So it’s like this by design? I’ve been eyeing the s90v buck 110, but that may be a deal breaker for me. I’m sure they’re fantastic knives but I personally just dislike if it allows contact with the back.

if ya push on the closed blade by the tip the spring moves outward and the knife hits. ive never had a problem with it in my many examples. possible weaker spring or something makes it easier to do by accident?

it doesnt take much force to do it but more than ive ever done on accident. i wouldnt let that discourage you. carrying inthe sheath stops it and closed with two hands instead of snapping closed wont let it happen either. carrying in a pocket might allow it to happen easily.
 
I've got 2 110s and they're both awesome just don't let it snap shut also I've never had this happen with my older one don't know if it being older makes a difference or not.
 
In a world dominated by flippers, assisted openers, and autos it's easy to forget that not all knives are as fool proof as newer more modern knives.

That being said, if it's touching on a gentle close it's definitely not right and needs to be checked out.

Edit: Tech issues. Oops.
 
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I have several 110's and 112's where the tips have made contact with the spacer and flattened the tip. On a couple, simply letting it snap shut under the force of its own detent is enough to dull the tip again. I don't think the kicks have been ground too much, letting the blade recess too deeply inside the knife. I can't see where any changes in assembly would fix the problem. So is it a design flaw? Maybe. I think it's a legitimate question.
 
When my 1977 110 is closed, I can push the blade down to the spacer, but it takes approximately 1/2" of travel for the edge to touch the spacer. I let the blade snap closed all the time and there is no edge damage at all. However, my 1973 112 takes approximately 1/4" of travel to touch and it has a tiny flattened area on the tip edge. Note the slight difference in kick height.

Zeer2uX.jpg
 
Without overthinking it I see a couple of options. Sharpen the knife and get on with life, it probably won't happen again and if it does then repeat. Contact Buck about returning it for warranty. Finally return or sell it and get something else that is properly designed, better built, etc. Bear in mind though that "better" is subjective and based on the various sub forums here the perfect knife has yet to be made.

You didn't mention if you used your Buck and if so how it performed as a cutting tool? As far as how brass could "ding" the Buck or any other steel that's kind of dependent on the angle of the edge. Brass isn't soft by any means. I mean would anyone want to get hit in the head by a chunk? Press a blade against it and the finer edge will see some deformation. Likely more so than a convex type edge.
 
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I normally close mine 2 handed. However, over the decades that I have carried a 110 (or the Schrade USA and Taylor Schrade 6OT/7OT "equivalents") I have never experienced this problem, even when I allow the blade to snap shut.
 
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but according to Joe's 110 timeline, the spacer has been stainless steel since '70-'72. Regardless, a fine edge is no match for a solid chunk of metal. Even my Alaskan Guide S30V has had the tip dinged many times by the spacer. After discovering this issue I don't let any lockback snap closed or push it beyond it's resting point.
 
So it’s like this by design? I’ve been eyeing the s90v buck 110, but that may be a deal breaker for me. I’m sure they’re fantastic knives but I personally just dislike if it allows contact with the back.

The fact is.......it's simply not a problem.

I've carried 110s for over 50 years and never had it happen once.

If it did I'd just touch it up and get on with life.

I suggest you do the same.
 
It sounds like a slight problem to me. Simply closing the blade could mess the the edge doesnt seem to be acceptable. I have many lockback that wont do whats being described.
Is it as simply as the kick not being big enough?
 
It sounds like a slight problem to me. Simply closing the blade could mess the the edge doesnt seem to be acceptable. I have many lockback that wont do whats being described.
Is it as simply as the kick not being big enough?

not all do it. snapped closed or not. not sure why...maybe spring strength or kick size...just guessing though. none of my dozen or so do it. others have one or more that does. not sure why theirs does it? is it a different tolerance problem, the way they use close and carry it? dont know but knifes been around a really long time. seems to be a modern complaint......so is it tolerances nowadays or use or both? interesting discussion topic
 
B709008B-8B5C-4522-8BC6-D9F4E9F05A21.jpeg Here is a picture of a custom knife where the maker dovetailed a piece of rubber in the area where a tip crunch might have occurred.
 
Here's a photo of a 110 with multiple divots in the spacer. My first attempt at posting a photo.



 
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There you have it. Plb has provided photographic evidence that confirms that we aren't just making this up. If you've never experienced this, that doesn't mean that it never happens to anyone else. I like my 112s and still use them in spite of this design deficiency. I have a 110 lightweight on pre-order and I'll get a 112 LW when they're available.
 
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I just got my first 110 and 112 ever on Friday.
The 110 is okay so far, but the 112s (D2) tip is chipped and you can see the impact marks below. I only carried it one day so far...
I've owned GECs with serious snap for 10 years without this issue.
Bummer, because I'm loving the 110 and 112 otherwise.
DtsF8Fc.jpg
 
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