Tip damage from "over closing" Buck 110??

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Thanks RevolverGuy for the photo, it helps to see the actual tolerances. I'm thinking of inserting a small piece of nylon or rubber over the back spacer and securing it with a drop of CA glue. It looks like about 3mm thick should fit and it could be removed if it interferes with anything. If this works, I'll be mad that I didn't try it years ago.
 
Reitwagen said:
Thanks RevolverGuy for the photo, it helps to see the actual tolerances. I'm thinking of inserting a small piece of nylon or rubber over the back spacer and securing it with a drop of CA glue. It looks like about 3mm thick should fit and it could be removed if it interferes with anything. If this works, I'll be mad that I didn't try it years ago.
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I found another thread earlier today that said this used to be a more prevalent problem and that a small piece of cork was used for the same purpose.
 
Thanks for the advice, Coyja. I'll find something suitable in the garage tomorrow and try it with a 112.
 
Coyja if the knife goes in the sheath skewed at all, it can start to compress the blade. Worse yet is the tendency to pinch the knife when pulling it out of the sheath. It makes it real easy to hit the back spacer when the knife is stowed tip-up in the sheath. I spent a little time measuring the blade width of several 110's at the kick and there was a few hundredths of an inch of variation. Some blade sit more proud than others.
 
Got it plb, and thanks.

This does just seem like a spot where overbuilt is actually causing an issue in his one spot.
I’m interested to hear what he response will be from Buck...
 
I cut a piece from an inner tube patch and placed it over the back spacer. It seems like it should work and it's not greatly visible. I know, it sounds rather savage, but the knife's a user. My bodge repair will be tested at work today.
 
Like I said earlier, my 1973 112's spacer has a tiny groove from the blade, but I have no idea what caused it or how long it has been there. Perhaps the sheath was tighter when it was new. Can't remember. I don't think it was from the blade snapping shut, because there is about a 1/4" clearance. My guess is that I was killing time, playing with it, and squeezed it all the way down when I was bored in my deer stand, then thinking, "I wonder why I can push this blade all the way down? Doesn't matter, that's kind of fun!" :D
 
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Coyja said:
I guess I'll allow it. (lol)

I literally just bought 5 Buck knives to give the brand a shot in 2018, so I'm not making any broad sweeping allegations, I'm just gathering info.
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If you're really interested in Buck knives.......I suggest you buy 5 old ones in good shape off the auction site and compare them model to model with these five new ones you just bought.

You might find it a fascinating project (and you'll have knives that will increase in value).
 
I will admit I am not the owner of many 110s, and never fooled with the couple I have. In the recent model 300s made by the Buck factory it is usually more of a too high blade kick than too low. As Bert showed the 311 was so long bladed you could let snap back or push it down and dull the edge. I have adjusted several 300s by Carefully and slowly filing down kick. As always the option for warranty repair is there and many times welcomed by Buck to see there production problems. I also could support the placing of a shock absorber if you didn't want to send it in. The methods stated are good but I might try a tiny sliver of some plastic bottle with a very very small touch of super glue on bottom. Now that was user method, collection method would be to send them in. 300
 
300Bucks said:
I will admit I am not the owner of many 110s, and never fooled with the couple I have. In the recent model 300s made by the Buck factory it is usually more of a too high blade kick than too low. As Bert showed the 311 was so long bladed you could let snap back or push it down and dull the edge. I have adjusted several 300s by Carefully and slowly filing down kick. As always the option for warranty repair is there and many times welcomed by Buck to see there production problems. I also could support the placing of a shock absorber if you didn't want to send it in. The methods stated are good but I might try a tiny sliver of some plastic bottle with a very very small touch of super glue on bottom. Now that was user method, collection method would be to send them in. 300
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300 Bucks, thanks for the response, can you clarify the term "blade kick" for me?
The initial response from Buck has basically been that the blade itself might be too long and I could send it in for warranty to get it ground down.

When I get home later I have an idea to see if I can test if it is happening when closing or while closed... will report back.
 
The "blade too long" is what I've found in the dozens of 110s I've put lanyard loops in. All of the grinding and finishing does change the blade length, and the belly slightly. If they undergrind the blade, it hits the spacer more readily, if they over grind it, it takes more force to get it there. My lanyard loop / spring holders are all identical, but I have to "dry fit" it in the knife before permanently pinning things together. Some I have to grind more clearance from the spring holder, some I don't. If you're careful, you could use a die grinder with an abrasive disk and slowly grind some clearance room from the spring holder while the knife is assembled. As for a dab of hot-glue, a piece of rubber, or plastic; eventually the blade is going to cut through and get to the steel again. You can't stop the blade's travel, all you can do is give it more room or give it a bumper.

 
I don't think that my blade on my 112 touches the back spacer while snapping shut, but rather the blade is pushed down while I carry it in my pocket. Of course, since I don't see it happen, I can't speak with certainty. As I recall, I never had the problem when I used the sheath, but that was a long time ago and I grow feeble in mind.
 
Blade too long.......kick too short........spring too weak.

These all seem to be potential causes when this problem does arise.

Maybe what's needed is just more careful manufacture.

I've not seen it, but I have hardly any new 110s.
 
VorpalRain said:
If you're really interested in Buck knives.......I suggest you buy 5 old ones in good shape off the auction site and compare them model to model with these five new ones you just bought.
You might find it a fascinating project (and you'll have knives that will increase in value).
Click to expand...

I just ordered a 1992 double dash for $35 online.
Took your advice rather than picking up a current 402HC...
(Was able to see the spacer and it doesn't look like it has the issue we are discussing here)
 
MT_Pokt said:
The "blade too long" is what I've found in the dozens of 110s I've put lanyard loops in. All of the grinding and finishing does change the blade length, and the belly slightly. If they undergrind the blade, it hits the spacer more readily, if they over grind it, it takes more force to get it there. My lanyard loop / spring holders are all identical, but I have to "dry fit" it in the knife before permanently pinning things together. Some I have to grind more clearance from the spring holder, some I don't. If you're careful, you could use a die grinder with an abrasive disk and slowly grind some clearance room from the spring holder while the knife is assembled. As for a dab of hot-glue, a piece of rubber, or plastic; eventually the blade is going to cut through and get to the steel again. You can't stop the blade's travel, all you can do is give it more room or give it a bumper.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the perspective and picture! That does indeed seem to show quite a bit of variation.
I also was thinking the same thing in terms of your thoughts with a "bumper"
Likely I'll be sending the 112 back to have dealt with one way or another...
 
Coyja said:
I just ordered a 1992 double dash for $35 online.
Took your advice rather than picking up a current 402HC...
(Was able to see the spacer and it doesn't look like it has the issue we are discussing here)
Click to expand...

Good for you. I think there was a dash and a double dash in '92.......double dash was an improvement of some kind and I think fewer were made than the dash that year. Thus it has a little added collectibility.
Yes, you probably got in on the last of the 425MOD.
Good purchase, I'd say.
 
Now you need a Three-Dotter.......that will take some time to get a good price, but not too difficult.
:)

The Four-Dot finger groove model is really nice.......as long as you're looking.
 
VorpalRain said:
Good for you. I think there was a dash and a double dash in '92.......double dash was an improvement of some kind and I think fewer were made than the dash that year. Thus it has a little added collectibility.
Yes, you probably got in on the last of the 425MOD.
Good purchase, I'd say.
Click to expand...
It’s a double dash!
 
plb said:
Here's a photo of a 110 with multiple divots in the spacer. My first attempt at posting a photo.

Click to expand...
That blade must have been flopping around all over the place to make two deep strike marks so far apart ?
 
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