Tip damage from "over closing" Buck 110??

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Send them back to Buck. Can't see how it's a "design flaw" since the majority don't seem to have this issue. Maybe some of their jigs need replaced or they need to tighten up QC at some stage of manufacture. Seems like normal use and sharpening would resolve the issue on the consumer end but Buck should welcome the input. . Still wondering how these flawed knives have performed otherwise?


I had the same/similar issue with my Benchmade 710. The blade hit when closed. Small little ding. Didn't effect cutting which is what I use knives for and after a couple of touch ups on the Sharpmaker it's fine. Should it have hit in the first place? Of course not. Was it the end of the world as we know it? Not for me.
 
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Badhammer said:
Still wondering how these flawed knives have performed otherwise?
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If you mean besides the tip breaking off within 24-48 hours because of what does appear to be a design/construction issue, then yeah, its works fine otherwise. LOL.
 
TAH said:
When my 1977 110 is closed, I can push the blade down to the spacer, but it takes approximately 1/2" of travel for the edge to touch the spacer. I let the blade snap closed all the time and there is no edge damage at all. However, my 1973 112 takes approximately 1/4" of travel to touch and it has a tiny flattened area on the tip edge. Note the slight difference in kick height.
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There does seem to be a difference in how my 110 and 112 behave when snapped shut, too.
The 110 I have (Cpm154 drop point) seems fine, but the 112 (clip point, D2) will hit if snapped.
 
Coyja said:
If you mean besides the tip breaking off within 24-48 hours because of what does appear to be a design/construction issue, then yeah, its works fine otherwise. LOL.
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Ok, first you said the tip was chipped now it's broken off. Kinda need to figure out which it is don't ya? A photo of the damage would clear things up.
 
Badhammer said:
Ok, first you said the tip was chipped now it's broken off. Kinda need to figure out which it is don't ya? A photo of the damage would clear things up.
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The tip is gone and I've already sharpened out the flattened portion.
From my count 2/3rds of the people commenting here at least admit that this happens, and at least half are trying to just figure out whats going on and if this is something that we need to consider a returnable flaw or live with... you seem really wound up over it, but aren't really offering anything to the conversation so how about you just dip out?
 
Yeah, I'm getting more skeptical about this story the more I read about it.

If your knife really has the flaw that you mention, it's an anomaly......not normal.

Send it back and Buck will replace it.
 
Coyja said:
The tip is gone and I've already sharpened out the flattened portion.
From my count 2/3rds of the people commenting here at least admit that this happens, and at least half are trying to just figure out whats going on and if this is something that we need to consider a returnable flaw or live with... you seem really wound up over it, but aren't really offering anything to the conversation so how about you just dip out?
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I've already offered several options on what you can do as well as possible causes. It's not rocket science. No one can tell anyone what they can or can't live with. OCD is rampant in this day and age. Read a thread a few months back on a different sub forum, about a factory flaw on a pocket clip. If I recall the photo showing the "flaw" was taken at 100+ magnification.

I'll continue to stick around if you don't mind.
 
Badhammer said:
I'll continue to stick around if you don't mind.
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I guess I'll allow it. (lol)

Moving on, though, two of us HAVE offered photographic evidence of the issue.
All I'm saying is there is not any real sample size to be able to determine anything, so this kind of thread is useful for those of us that have recognized this as a problem. I'll stay tuned as well, for those who are interested in showing/mentioning similar problems.
I literally just bought 5 Buck knives to give the brand a shot in 2018, so I'm not making any broad sweeping allegations, I'm just gathering info.
 
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I will always resharpen the tip, as many have suggested. It's one of my favorite pastimes. But, as someone who likes to solve problems, the only solution I can see is to grind the tip down - or send it to Buck to do that- or remove the spacer and reshape it to allow more clearance. I wonder what MT_Pokt has seen replacing spacers with his cool lanyard loop spacers?

To answer the question about how the knife performs as a cutting tool, it cuts really great! But like having a dull spot anywhere on the blade, it will snag when passing over that spot. Yep, I'm OCD about my edges. I want them to cut evenly throughout the entire length.

FYI, I just looked at my unused 2011 - 426 Bucklite and the blade has cut a notch in the plastic spacer - but no ding in the blade. Difference in material hardness probably prevented edge deformation.

Thanks all for your input.
 
bertl said:
Are you saying the tip broke off within two days just from closing the knife?

Bert
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Yes, actually more likely within one day of using it. I've only possessed the knife since Friday evening, and only carried it (in the sheath) yesterday. So, basically, the groove you see in the spacer is from about a 5-6 hour period of carrying it. Its not like I sat around snapping it closed a bunch either, so it is rather substantial for the time period.
I also checked the tightness of the new sheath and it was not compressing the blade at all when in the sheath.

The tip is chipped, not a massive chunk or anything, but it definitely chipped off a bit.
Based on the grooves being worn in the spacer, this thread has perfect timing for me and I'm lucky there wasn't more damage/flattening.

I contacted Skblades and he is going to reach out to Buck for me.
Will report back.
 
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This has not happened to me on mine, but that's because the kick is just right and I don't squeeze on it when closed.
I have had this happen with a slipjoint or two though.

If it happens when the knife snaps shut either you're closing it too hard or a tiny bit too much came off the kick in the finishing process ( could also be not enough came off the back spacer ) and the knife may need to be sent in.
 
Okay, I stand corrected. The blade of my 110 (CPM154) seems okay, but there is also a dent forming in the spacer here, too.
v1z8mms.jpg
 
As I stated in a previous thread, this is not a new problem or one exclusive to Buck 110s and 112s. I have back lock knives from Maserin and Eka that have stop pins so that the kick doesn't rest on the rocker bar. AG Russell talks about this issue and how he designs knives with stop pins or mid locks for this very reason. I retrofitted a stop pin in a 112 and a 422 and reground the kicks when I saw how other manufacturers have designed knives that never have the edge impact any part of the knife. I like my Buck lock backs, but I grumble about the quirks of a design that hasn't changed in over 50 years.
 
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Who purposely closes a 110 with a tight fist grip? Why? It's a knife that's meant to be opened/closed with two hands. If you could see through the scales when the 110 is resting, the blade should not even touch the back spacer. I don't really see a design flaw here.
 
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No one ever said they were closing with a “tight fist grip” and the fact that the blade should not hit the back spacer is the entire point of this thread.
 
Sorry I only read the orginal post and did not read all the others and probably should have. He stated, "...but nothing prevents the blade from touching the back if you inadvertently squeeze the knife blade towards the channel after the knife has closed." I figured someone out there was squeezing the knife closed.
 
Thanks for the photo RevolverGuy. As some have eluded to, when putting the knife into a tight sheath, it can compress the blade resulting in contact with the spacer. I looked at several of Buck's mid locks and they are engineered such that the blade cannot be pushed down to the spacer. Thanks Reitwagen for bringing that to light. Makes sense to me.
 
I’ve checked both my sheaths, which are brand new and snug, but neither depresses the blades at all.

My GEC 23 that I’ve carried on and off for ten years has a decently strong back spring to help it, but is built with much more space between blade and backspring/spacer as to make contact nearly impossible.
 
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