Tips, Tricks, & Useful Finds(FAQs too)

When etching blades to reveal the hardening zones
(temperline hamon ......)

First mix the liquid with an equal amount of 'corn-starch'
by volume.

Then, as usual, add the drop or two of dish liquid
to increase the 'wetting' of the liquid
to prevent droplets forming on the blade.

The corn-starch
(spices/baking aisle,
or baby aisle...sometimes baby-powder is -not- talc)

#1 thickens the liquid while it is on the blade-
slowing runoff & keeping the layer over the steel thicker.
#2 you can better see where the etchant is applied.

Increase or decrease the cornstarch to your liking.
I like thicker than the 50/50 gives.

When the mixture sits for a short time,
the starch settles to the bottom,
but just squish it with your fingers to quickly mix it back in.

I did this with straight vinegar,
can't say how it works with anything else,
but it should work fine with anything that doesn't eat starch.

If you keep the mixture in a bottle only half full,
then it's easy to shake up after it has settled.



<:eek:> THEY call me 'Dean' <>
dean-sp-sm.jpg

<:)> fYI-fWiW-iIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TiA-YW-GL-HH-HBd
<:D> Noobee <> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
I use lots of magnets to keep metal bits from getting lost

Tool stores sell magnetic trays & dishes for this purpose.

But.........

Any magnet will work
depending on size & quantity of the metal bits you need to hold.
The magnet can often be positioned closer to where the parts are used;
on the tool or stand or hinge or nearby steel anything.
My computer assembly drawer has ice trays with smallish
magnets dropped into each hole to keep
the screw, washers, & other bits sorted and more secure.
Magnets glued under shelves keep small things at hand
in locations where they are most often used.
One in the chamber of a bagless vacuum cleaner
collects lost screws and other items.

Sources:
- any loose magnet (stronger & bigger usually better)......salvaged or new
- several types of magnets used by welders to align parts (excellent)
- cheap knife/tool holder strips that use magnets
- those magnetic business cards sometimes are useful
- craft/hobby shops usually have magnetic sheeting in various sizes
- magnetic paperclip dispensers are useful
- most fridge magnets have only limited use

Any magnet on or near computers or magnetic media
should be small & further away is better.
I do have a couple of small ones stuck to the side exterior
to hold drive keys, & notes

A smallish -strong- magnet works as well as anything
to find nails in walls or woodwork.
 
An online complaint line.

Haven't used the site yet,
but it was such a straightforward & simple idea
well implemented apparently
(and more & more used thoughout its 2-year history)
that I thought it deserved a post of its own:

www.thesqueakywheel.com/index.html

------------------------------------------------------------

another similar is:
www.ripoffreport.com/default.asp

from:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346990


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<> call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links--A--T--H--D
 
Are your antler grips tired & dull ?
Are your bone handles rough & chalky ?
Are your horn handles scratched & dim ? *

The cure is as close as your grocery.
And you may have the material already in your own home.

Brown grocery bag paper !
BonAmi powder !
Olive oil !

Rub the antler with the brown grocery bag paper.
(this is a different paper than the thin stiff brown paper;
though maybe that will work too)

Sooner than you expect, you'll see a shine start.

Using the plain BonAmi / Calcium Carbonate / whiting / chalk
speeds things up.
Making a paste with olive oil treats the antler while you polish
& better keeps the powder in place.

The heavy brown grocery sack paper stands up very well.

You could use a leather patch or a cloth with the Calcium Carbonate paste
but the sack paper is a good buffing material in its own right.

Gotta admit the bone application is an extrapolation from the boney antler--
Can't find the dog bone that was sitting here yesterday.

But a quick try on a horn handle says it will work.
----------------
* But........another try on another horn handle results in a satin finish
So test before you commit.

~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links--A--T--H--D
 
Save the cast-off tail ends of nylon 'zip-ties'.

useful in various lengths as:

mixers, applicators, spacers (shims), prods & pokers,

& more yet to be discovered.

-------------------------------------------------------

Pretty much ditto for 'credit card' plastics.
I don't use real credit cards (outdated),
but sometimes fake ones come in the mail,
other outdated membership cards,
old hotel key-cards,
..............


playing cards can work too,
& they are made of diff. materials & thicknesses.


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links--A--T--H--D
 

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I havent paid much attention to this thread, but since it keeps lighting up blue today ill post something.

I was reading on the knifeforums survival forum about an in-field convex sharpener.

It consists of an altoids can, with a mousepad piece glued onto one side, and a leather piece glued to the other. The inside of the can was filled with different grits of sandpaper, and little chunks of either black or green compound. The sandpaper was left long enough to hold onto, or sticky paper was used. The leather acted as a strop and was charged with the compound.

This seemed like a great little kit to carry around in the field. Compact and easy to make. I for one was always paranoid about in field convex sharpening.
 
If you need a lazy-susan type turn-table
for spices, bottles, cereals, polishing compounds..................
drive the kitten crazy...........

Quick inexpensive simple.

two (twin / nesting) round flat-bottom serving trays or cookie sheets or .........
---------(any size from tiny to huge)
------(my 16-in plastic relish trays -- Total cost $2 at the local $1 store)
lay one down and put in a handful of BB's
------(buy the 5000 BB carton for about $6, about the volume of a baseball)
lay the other tray on top of the BB's / nested inside the first tray.
Spin.
There you are.

More BB's as needed to smooth operation or adjust for heavy loads.

Completely fill the lower tray (but only 1 layer)
if you want to build the *Deluxe* model.............:D

~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
Not all common metal is as it appears.

Copper or brass kitchen scourers
may be plated steel if buying an off-brand
Use a magnet to check before using one to clean rust from a blade.

Copper pennies have not been for a few years;
copper plate over zinc/zinc-alloy.


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
Glue Adhesive Sticky Stuff

"Because people have a need to glue things to other things"
http://www.thistothat.com
Home - has quick reference for best glues for a job
Links - other glue spots
Glue o'Month - guess what


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-tWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
For stuck screws
especially with stripped heads

Screw Medic & similar

just a dropper bottle containing
a very fine rough abrasive suspended in mineral oil

a drop on the screw-head helps the driver grip the slot

I don't need it often
Had the same tiny bottle for at least 10 years
but it works
though not magic

here's one source:
http://www.hometownstores.com/detail.aspx?ID=31635

Or make your own
use blast grit or off of sandpaper or maybe iron filings
any oil to hold it


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-tWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
Next time you go out to do some chopping

take a big black marker along
color the edge of your blade on one side
from the edge up about an inch

stop chopping occasionally
& check the pattern of ink scraped off the blade

you'll see clearly the striking point you use
& the angle the blade is striking across


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-tWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
A useful general lubricant
that is inexpensive & plastic safe
[check details yourself]

is wire-pulling lubricant
from the electrical section of building supply / hardware.

Some are wax based & some have PTFE (Teflon)
read ingredients

Some might make for good coating
for long-term storage

~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me
'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-tWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
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