Titanium Frame lock WIP and introduction

Thank you for the video! Puts the knife into perspective. Are there any more changes apart from the ball detent you are considering? Really liking this knife!
 
because of the detent ball i will need to move choil a few mm towards the end(tip of the blade) of the knife...

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also i was thinking of adding jimpig to the front part of the knife so when it's in closed position you can grip it better if you wanna hammer something...
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i can't still decide if i wanna do it as i don't have it on the current version and it looks great the way it is , also you can grip it just fine without that front jimpig...
 
i don't like the way it looks but i was thinking it might be more functional...
might do one with it and one without :)
 
This is one excellent looking knife. I love the design and the thick components, very inspirational.
I would buy one today if I could get it into Australia. Alas.
 
That knife is awesome! I can not imagine how it must feel to build this kind of a knife yourself. Really nice work. You are talented mr. vandalay. Now the question is: Do you take orders? :P
 
thank you!

and just to say..i love your username , i take it another seinfeld fan :)

i just updated my profile to knifemaker!!!


i got asked for availability by so many users i can't remember all...so once i'm done making these 2 knifes i'll post them in sale forums...i can notify you or anyone interested...

if you have any more questions please feel free email me at dr.dalibor at gmail.com or just post here :)
 
I just waiting the paypal address to do the payment........ I have sent 3 emails, do you received them??
 
thanks Alphahunter!!!

@darrex
i replayed to every email you sent me...perhaps you need to check your spam folder...
 
i got 3 of your emails, and i replayed to all 3..i sent you a test mail to your gmail account..hope you get it..i'm getting your messages..
 
I use a couple of different sized hand tappers on knife frames, and they have reduced my tap breakage considerably, especially in 6/4 Titanium.
 
what do you mean different sized?
please explain a bit more as i broke like more than 50 taps already and could use a break :)

got the frames cut today :)
 
What kind of taps are you using? From the pictures it would appear they are a spiral point tap, which are going to push the cut chips ahead of the tap.

I would suggest looking for a spiral fluted tap which will push the chips out of the top of the hole (and are a it bit more robust from my experience in harder material), which may keep them from breaking. Also, what thread percentage are you drilling for?

I've been in the machining sector for 10+ years, but as with all advise, it's worth what you have paid for it.
 
My large hand tapper is Chinese. I think it came from Travers Tool. It has a clearance height of 19cm and a throat depth of 19cm. I generally use this it with taps larger than 6mm in diameter. My small hand tapper is US made by an outfit called Cedarberg Industries. It has a clearance height of 9cm and a throat depth of 11.5cm. I use it with taps that are less than 6mm in diamter. The taps are mounted in collets which come with the device. That way you can change taps quickly. The diameter of your tap drill should be determined by the ratio of the hole depth to the hole diameter. The deeper the hole, the lower the thread height. It's all in the Machinery Handbook in the class of fit tables. Sometimes I have to shim a tap with beer can Aluminum to make it fit tightly in collet. Also sometimes the tap winds up being off center. By putting a peg in the table, I can let the part being tapped float. The part moves back and forth slightly as the tap is being turned. Feel free to PM me if you have questions.
 
thank you volthause and tiguy7,

i use spiral point taps, and yes they push the cut chips forward.
on my standoffs i drill the hole exactly as it should be drilled and clip holes i drill a bit larger the hole for the clip..

i'll try to get spiral fluted tap and see how it goes..
 
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