- Joined
- Oct 29, 2013
- Messages
- 763
Ahh. So busse still holds top. So many choices. It was alot easier building my kit. Different knifes for different jobs. Its going to take some time for this piece.
Im leaning more towards carbon now though, as I originally figured it best for this knife, with the rust being the only thing holding it back. Now that thats out of the way I can continue my search. Thanks a bunch for your time dave.
Thonders, if it helps confuse you any more, I prefer stainless much more than Carbon, or at least a stain resistant HC steel like D2 or CTS-XHP. A2 is a nice tough steel for survival knives as well, and S35VN has been a favorite of mine for a couple years now (it's about as stainless as it gets). I have several knives made from 1095, 1084, 52100 and others, and even though they cut well I don't think a patina inhibits rust as some would mention (it just makes surface rust harder to see), and upkeep is both time consuming and a hassle when you have the option of stainless steel that eliminates that requirement. In fact, I think a high mirror polish inhibits rust more than anything you can do to a high carbon blade apart from oiling or waxing it regularly, keeping it dry and clean.
The reason you see HC steels used in a lot of survival knives still is cost, toughness and manufacturer preference. Also, a knife is one of the few tools you can get real use out of in a survival situation. You can search for appropriate sized wood for all your needs, but it's easier to find an approximately sized piece and cut to fit. In almost all implementations it's very nice to have the ability to have precise fit for bushcrafting (building a shelter or bow and spindle setup for firestarting, or making a trap or notching a piece of wood for a trap. The easiest and most efficient trap I know of is a figure 4 deadfall trap for small game, and precise notching makes or breaks this trap).