Leeeet's begin.
I am going to start this off with Yanutsil's knife, a single blade spear with all stainless hardware, end cap bolsters, ivory bone handles, a small shield, and an easy open notch.
The materials and templates:
I have sprayed my steel liner and bolster stock with blue dykem so that I can clearly mark where I want to cut. I then use an old liner from a disassembled 15 as a template for the new liners, and my bolster template is a scale from a boys knife with end caps glued to a liner.
I cut them out on my bandsaw:
Now that they are all cut out, I remove the burr with a large single cut file:
Now to drill some holes. Double sided tape is my friend when it comes to using templates and drilling through multiple liners.
Clamp to ensure a secure bond:
Using the original liner as a guide, I drill through that bugger. I use an aluminum square tube as a drill block for a couple of reasons. Drilling through the liner with the aluminum below it prevents the liner from doming and creating a large burr when I am trying to drill through it, as it provides pressure to the liner allowing the bit to cut the bur clean and not leave it hanging off. Another reason to use a drill block is to prevent the pressure of the drill press from bending the liner. It doesn't have to be aluminum, but I had some scraps of this stuff, so I decided to use it for this application. You don't want to use wood for this because the drill will still push the burr down into the softer wood.
At this point, I grind the liners to size to avoid having to haft off all of that metal down the road. I keep the liners taped together and use the original liner as a template for size. Lets go over to the grinders:
Watch out for any 4 legged tripping hazards!
Grind the liners down to size. I try to leave on as little excess as possible, so I have minimal hafting after assembly. Yes, that is a treadmill motor control, and yes, I do run my grinders off of treadmill motors. Laugh all you want, they still work!
Gettin' there!
I forgot to shave this morning.
Hafted down to size. Now to clean up with acetone and de-burr.
At this point, I use an worn 220 grit belt on my grinder to remove the burr and smooth out the liners. I use the flat platen for this task.
While I'm there, I also flatten the bolsters and square up the side that will be butting up against the bone scales.
To shape the bone to size, I use an old scale as a template and tape it to the bone scales with double sided tape. I cut as much excess off the top and bottom with the bandsaw to preserve my belts, and to reduce the bone dust in the air.
Square up the bone to ensure a snug fit between the bolsters.
Again, using an old liner as a template, drill the scale holes through both liners. I use broken drill bits as pins to hold everything in line during drilling.
De-burr and sand smooth.
With the scale holes drilled, I can now use the old bone scale as a template to scribe the lines where I want my bolsters. This is the first step in preparing for soldering. Before this, you may want to mark the liners to to prevent possible confusion.
I use a pencil here to prevent the solder from sticking to the liner, leaving it uneven for the bone scale.
Same goes for bolsters.
This is where I break for the day. Updates coming tomorrow!!
Special thanks to Philllll the camera man!