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- Mar 1, 2014
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- 228
Very generous. Thank you.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
TURKEY DINNER TUTORIAL- begins on post 247!
- Thread starter esnyx
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2014
- Messages
- 1,119
I'm FINALLY back, now, where was I?
Oh yes, time to add the scale pins and pin the shield in place. I'm using a 1/16th stainless pin for this. Trim your pins to size and sand the ends flat, in preparation for peening.
I use a piece of wood to keep the pins in place, and to allow me to move flattened pins out of the way for the next one.
Repeat the process on the other side and now you can peen the scale pins.
Grind the domes off of the pins, leaving everything flush.
Time to cut the easy open notch. I use an old liner from a 15 scout as a template, and assemble the knife to see where I want to put the notch. I then use my bandsaw to cut out the notches from the scales, and smooth and even them out with my spindle sander .
I use the first scale as a guide to cut the notch out on the second.
Here is where the spindle comes in.
Hand sand an polish the scales.
Now I etch my mark to the mark side liner. I use my homemade electro-etcher and my mark stencil for this. With the negative terminal attached to the liner and positive terminal attached to a q-tip dipped in etching solution, I rub the q-tip on the stencil for about a minute to get a clean etch.
Now the knife is ready for final assembly. I use a 3/32 stainless pin that I have polished and tapered on one end. After trimming the pivot and bottom pin to size, I tap the tapered end of the pin into place in the center pinhole, causing the spring to compress, and the knife to come together.
With the knife assembled and the pins trimmed to size, you can flatten and peen one end of all three pins. Tap the domed side of the pin down to the scale and flatten the other sides of the pins.
Now I insert a slackener that I made out of some .003" thick shim stock. This allows me to peen the pivot without seizing up the blade. This really helps with having a nice, smooth action.
After removing the slackener, tap the pivot a couple times to remove any blade wobble. Make sure not to tap it too much and seize up the blade.
Oh yes, time to add the scale pins and pin the shield in place. I'm using a 1/16th stainless pin for this. Trim your pins to size and sand the ends flat, in preparation for peening.
I use a piece of wood to keep the pins in place, and to allow me to move flattened pins out of the way for the next one.
Repeat the process on the other side and now you can peen the scale pins.
Grind the domes off of the pins, leaving everything flush.
Time to cut the easy open notch. I use an old liner from a 15 scout as a template, and assemble the knife to see where I want to put the notch. I then use my bandsaw to cut out the notches from the scales, and smooth and even them out with my spindle sander .
I use the first scale as a guide to cut the notch out on the second.
Here is where the spindle comes in.
Hand sand an polish the scales.
Now I etch my mark to the mark side liner. I use my homemade electro-etcher and my mark stencil for this. With the negative terminal attached to the liner and positive terminal attached to a q-tip dipped in etching solution, I rub the q-tip on the stencil for about a minute to get a clean etch.
Now the knife is ready for final assembly. I use a 3/32 stainless pin that I have polished and tapered on one end. After trimming the pivot and bottom pin to size, I tap the tapered end of the pin into place in the center pinhole, causing the spring to compress, and the knife to come together.
With the knife assembled and the pins trimmed to size, you can flatten and peen one end of all three pins. Tap the domed side of the pin down to the scale and flatten the other sides of the pins.
Now I insert a slackener that I made out of some .003" thick shim stock. This allows me to peen the pivot without seizing up the blade. This really helps with having a nice, smooth action.
After removing the slackener, tap the pivot a couple times to remove any blade wobble. Make sure not to tap it too much and seize up the blade.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2014
- Messages
- 1,119
Time to haft the knife down to shape! First I grind off the pin domes, then using a combination of my 8" contact wheel grinder and the slack parts of the belts on my KMG, I shape the handle.
Aaaand this is where I am going to leave you guys hangin'! Gotta leave some of the surprise for Linus!
All I do from here is hand sand any scratches left from the grinding, then I hand finish with either scotchbrite or polish to a mirror finish. I am leaning towards the latter.
Aaaand this is where I am going to leave you guys hangin'! Gotta leave some of the surprise for Linus!
All I do from here is hand sand any scratches left from the grinding, then I hand finish with either scotchbrite or polish to a mirror finish. I am leaning towards the latter.
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2011
- Messages
- 2,618
Nicely done Evan, you would make a good teacher!
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2014
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- Joined
- Jan 13, 2003
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- 6,560
Evan,
I have been admiring your work for some time now. You are really doing some excellent stuff, and I, as I am sure others as well, appreciate you taking the time putting this tutorial together. I have had requests to do WIP threads in the past, and I always start with good intentions, but end up getting caught up in the work and forget to take pics.
So, thank you for sharing your knowledge and time with everyone, you have a bright future in this business!
Glenn
I have been admiring your work for some time now. You are really doing some excellent stuff, and I, as I am sure others as well, appreciate you taking the time putting this tutorial together. I have had requests to do WIP threads in the past, and I always start with good intentions, but end up getting caught up in the work and forget to take pics.
So, thank you for sharing your knowledge and time with everyone, you have a bright future in this business!
Glenn
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- Mar 8, 2014
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- 4,146
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2014
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^What's this I keep seeing? Some kind of little gauge block?
Those are square magnets I use to catch steel pins that I tap out on my stiddy.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2014
- Messages
- 1,119
Thank you everyone!
Making this thread has been a pleasure! I'm just happy that I can contribute to this amazing forum by sharing the little knowledge I have!
Well, you heard the man... Here she is!
Making this thread has been a pleasure! I'm just happy that I can contribute to this amazing forum by sharing the little knowledge I have!
No...!!!
EARL....EVAN.....you can't do this to me...I was hoping to get a glimpse of my full grown baby......
Well, you heard the man... Here she is!
Cory Hess
Basic Member
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2014
- Messages
- 2,117
Great tutorial, Evan(with an assist from Phillll). The bit about holding a piece of wood against the scale to hold the pins in place was a duh moment. The type of thing I look at and say "Of course you'd do that. Why wouldn't you?" even though I know I'd never have thought of that and just struggled. Same for the trick of cutting the cover and then clamping the bolster to fit instead of soldering on the bolster and then trying to cut the bone to fit. Makes a ton of sense when you see it, but I never would have made that connection on my own. Thank you, and other craftsmen here, for sharing your hard earned knowledge. There are many out there that play things close to the chest in order to gain some kind of advantage in the market, and rightfully so. I truly appreciate the fact that people here are so generous with their experience.
paulhilborn
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2006
- Messages
- 14,484
Just a BEAUTIFUL KNIFE!!! Thanks Evan for all your hard work putting this tutorial and the knives together:thumbup:
