Twenty Eight Buck Knives in the Process of Getting New Covers

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Feb 9, 2011
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I posted a couple photos of these 28 Buck knives a couple weeks ago ( I think on the SPS) of when I first removed the standard covers.
Here is a quick update on those knives…they have all been fitted and are now epoxied. Now to start making them purdy. I'll post them here as they get ready for my use or my display.
I ran out of painter's tape and was going to go buy more, but decided to finish rapping the blades in duct tape with paper underneath to protect them….yep, I'm that cheap!! :)





















It's been cold even here in Florida this last week, so this is what my kitchen counter has looked like. It's warmer in the house! :)

 
:thumbup:

How do you deal with the lock pin? cut and peen both sides or just cut flush? do you recess a spot on the back of the scales?

Edit: I'll trade you some tape if I can pick your brain regarding a similar project.:D

Thanks.
 
Here are some of the earlier photos on this project. I do cut the rocker pin and peen it below the surface of the liners.

This is where I matched the new covers up to the knives I wanted to put them on.



These photos show the rocker pins peened after factory covers were removed.






These show the covers fitted to the frames and sanded to the right thickness.






This photo shows some of the dust that didn't get all over my truck. I waited until it rained to take the truck out for a free bath. :)



Rupestris….is your tape 3M painter's tape?? :p
Feel free to email any questions, but remember I am not even close to the experts here that do this stuff….in fact, they probably see how I do this and sit back rolling their eyes at my stupidity. I just have fun, consider it a challenge and enjoy the results.

It just makes me feel better to carry a Buck knife that I made mine. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
I found a photo of a few knives I re-handled last year that shows the rocker pin setup better.
See how the liners are already countersunk? Thats how I can cut the pins just a little longer and peen to below the surface.

 
Great pictures and great tutorial, some day I may try this myself. Good to see the tools you use to complete the job.
 
Insane Mark, I don't have that kind of patience. Very impressive for a hobbyist.
 
Thanks much for the photos Stumps.

I've tinkered with and rehandled plenty of fixed blade knives. Folders have always made me a bit nervous. My plan it to make a 110 more pocket friendly. I'd like to take the overall width down by 1/8" to 3/16" and put a slight taper on the bolsters. From there I'm thinking a modern scale replacement like Kirinite or Corian for my first go-gound as it tends to be a bit less expensive and somewhat easy to work with.

I use the automotive version of 3M painters tape. It's a bright, lime green color. Has a little more "sticky" to it but comes off just as clean as the blue. I'll be in touch via email.

Thanks again.
 
Looking real good Stumps! Nice to see you having some fun with personalizing the Buck's :thumbup:
Makes me want to get back out in my shop and tinker a little :)
 
Great photo's Mark. Can't wait to see them all finished and pretty.

Someday I will have to free up some time and would love to rehandle some Bucks myself. I have plinked around with it a bit but not enough to perfect the art like you have.
 
Hi Mark,

Thanks for the fantastic project photo's. On the next step sanding the glued on scales to size, do you sand all the way down to the frame? Do you use finer grit or what to get rid of sanding marks on the metal? Please show photo's of the rest of the process.

Thanks a bunch!

jb4570
 
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Spent the day doing the rough sanding on all 28 Buck knives.
My back and neck are sore. :)

I have these in the same order as they are in post #1 above so you can see the difference a day makes.


















John…I use an 80 grit belt for the rough sanding. I believe most probably use a 36 grit for this process, but my eyes aren't as good as they used to be, so a less aggressive grit it is. :)

Second rough will be with a 240 grit belt, then up to either a 400 or 500 grit belt depending on what belts I have in the shop.

I enjoy the whole process of re-handling knives, but I like the finish sanding the best. That's where you can really make a knife look great with a little imagination.
 
Looks fantastic ..Can I ask what type of sander you are using? I have a cheap harbor freight (1x24 inch belt) the belt is to flexible so it is hard to get the handle match the bolster height without hitting the brass. I have done a few less expensive knives ..not quite up to attempting a buck just yet..need better equipment and a lot more practice to get to your level

Bob
 
Thanks for the info Mark,

Please keep the photo's coming of the next steps in final sanding and polishing.

JB
 
Looks fantastic ..Can I ask what type of sander you are using? I have a cheap harbor freight (1x24 inch belt) the belt is to flexible so it is hard to get the handle match the bolster height without hitting the brass. I have done a few less expensive knives ..not quite up to attempting a buck just yet..need better equipment and a lot more practice to get to your level

Bob

Bob, I use a 42" Kalamazoo. It's not one of the large belt sanders, but I don't need anymore since this is just a hobby for me. It has a nice flex to it. I find I use that part of the belt more. Just have to go slow and constantly check the progress…especially when I get close to the bolsters and liners.
I still occasionally nick the brass lightly, but it's never bad and always easy to finish with the final sanding.
 
Fantastic work Mark. I have a handle material question. 2nd pic top knife and 5th pic top knife what is the material?
Keep up the good work!!!
 
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