Utility wharncliffe folder?

matus

matus

Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
662
Hi,

since I have built my mini knife making workshop I have much more use for a true utility blade. I have got the Delica HAP40 and while it is a great knife, it does not suit the task well as the blade is to thin and flexes a lot. The use is cutting all possible materials including sanding paper, cardboard, wood, etc.

I am on the search for a utility folding knife with the following properties:
- wharncliffe-ish blade cca 2.5" - 3"
- preferably flat grind (no hollow grind)
- steel that holds decent edge, ease of sharpening not relevant
- full size handle (I often wear working gloves when I use the knife)
- one hand opening (and ideally also closing)
- up to about $200 (less is OK)

I have searched, but did not manage to find an obvious candidate so I though I would ask.

thanks :)
 
i have a kershaw camber in s30v that i really like. even though i have several zero tolerance, benchmade and a midtech southard i still carry the camber now and then. granted not as much as i carry my higher end knives but for the money its hard to beat. its the only sub $100 folder i still carry...that alone should show how good of a knife it is. ever since i got into high end knives i either gave away or sold almost all of my sub $100 folders and the camber is the only one that still gets used

edit to add: sorry i forgot you wanted a wharncliffe
 
Why not just get a an old Nicholson file and make a beater knife out of it.
If you have a belt sander you can easily make one in 30min if your careful to keep it cool .
( if you get the type with a handle tang vs a rat tail tang I'll already have a lanyard hole in it )
All you'll need to do is cut it to length / wharncliff tip then profile / sharpen it.
If that's the kind of stuff you'll be doing with it, it should probably just stay in your shop and doesn't need to be able to be carried , but simply hang on a nail.
 
I am specifically looking for a folding knife as after use I can quickly fold it and toss it on the bench - a fixed blade would need to go inside a pouch or sheath. But yes - I do plan to make a knife along those lines.

I would only add that sheepsfoot would also work - the tip does not need to be super pointy.
 
matus said:
Hi,

since I have built my mini knife making workshop I have much more use for a true utility blade. I have got the Delica HAP40 and while it is a great knife, it does not suit the task well as the blade is to thin and flexes a lot. The use is cutting all possible materials including sanding paper, cardboard, wood, etc.

I am on the search for a utility folding knife with the following properties:
- wharncliffe-ish blade cca 2.5" - 3"
- preferably flat grind (no hollow grind)
- steel that holds decent edge, ease of sharpening not relevant
- full size handle (I often wear working gloves when I use the knife)
- one hand opening (and ideally also closing)
- up to about $200 (less is OK)

I have searched, but did not manage to find an obvious candidate so I though I would ask.

thanks :)
Click to expand...

You okay with Chinese knives? Because there is one such candidate: the Enlan M025. Less than 3 inches, costs around $15. Steel is 8Cr13MoV.
 
matus said:
Hi,

since I have built my mini knife making workshop I have much more use for a true utility blade. I have got the Delica HAP40 and while it is a great knife, it does not suit the task well as the blade is to thin and flexes a lot. The use is cutting all possible materials including sanding paper, cardboard, wood, etc.

I am on the search for a utility folding knife with the following properties:
- wharncliffe-ish blade cca 2.5" - 3"
- preferably flat grind (no hollow grind)
- steel that holds decent edge, ease of sharpening not relevant
- full size handle (I often wear working gloves when I use the knife)
- one hand opening (and ideally also closing)
- up to about $200 (less is OK)

I have searched, but did not manage to find an obvious candidate so I though I would ask.

thanks :)
Click to expand...

How about just grinding the tip off of your Delica and turning it into a shorter sheepsfoot type blade?

There's a strong tradition among Opinel users to do this sort of thing with Opinels. The result is that you're left with a shorter blade and a larger handle, more like a folding carving knife. I have a stout Opinel sheepsfoot (gifted to me by forum member DaveK) on one work bench and an Opinel spear point on my other work bench.

The sheepsfoot blade shape is excellent for shop use. Excels at scoring cuts. The tip is very strong and stands up to prying and abuse.

If your Delica is too dear to you, perhaps get a cheap Spyderco. Just view the stock blade as a starting point, not as something inviolate. You bought it. It's your knife.

FWIW, the Opinels are easy to open and super safe to close one handed, with just a bit of practice. Not as fast as a Spyderco type knife though.
 
I have no problem with a Chinese knife as long as it works properly - I am not sure what to expect from that steel though.

I actually did consider grinding the tip off the Delica, but I am not sure it would fully solve the problem of the blade flexing too much (it would surely help though). To grind that much with just a belt grinder would be a slow job as I would have to watch not to overheat the blade. I would prefer not to go that route though.

The Kitzer has about the right blade shape, but the video gives the impression that it does not really offer a full 4 finger grip - or am I mistaken?
 
For what you are describing, i would hack up an Opinel #10 (top one pictured).

Opinel by Pinnah, on Flickr

I would use a cut off tool or hack saw to make a cut from just before the nail nick at an angle to edge and then I would shape with a file and then stones (or a grinding wheel).

I like this style of knife to not be too tall from edge to spine. Also prefer a straighish edge line with a slight bit of raise near the tip.

Now you just need to practice one hand open with the Opinel. It's easy, but not millisecond fast.
 
stout D2 steel blade...no flex, carbon fiber handle, easy one hand close liner lock, easy one hand open with flipper, modified Wharncliffe blade shape, oversized handle is easy with gloves....and best of all its about 65.00

Camillus Jolt.... IMHO a VERY overlooked knife

 
Thanks. I have indeed never heard of the Camillus - the flipper is way too long, but I guess one could remove it completely and just use the stud on the blade. But the blade has quite some belly.
 
The Viper Dan2 is an option, no lock though
And you can buy the Deica with a wharncliffe (sort of) blade, the Delica Kahr.
The Blackhawk Be-wharned might also be an option...
 
I'm curious to know how you're using the blade hard enough to flex the blade on the Delica.
Also if the flex of the blade on the Delica is too much for you, I expect that modifying an Opinel is not good answer for you, because the blade is thinner and will flex even more easily than on the Delica.
 
matus said:
...The use is cutting all possible materials including sanding paper, cardboard, wood, etc.
Click to expand...

BAD IDEA. Anything you get is going to get scratched and the edge ruined. We use sandpaper to SHARPEN knives... so no steel is going to stand a chance against this material. I have done it before, but with a beater knife or utility (disposable) knife. Not with a $200 blade!
 
matus said:
The Kitzer has about the right blade shape, but the video gives the impression that it does not really offer a full 4 finger grip - or am I mistaken?
Click to expand...

I love my Kizer Pinkerton Rogue. The handle is long enough for a full 4 finger grip, so long as your hands aren't larger than medium sized. I think this might be the knife you're looking for. Price is great for what you get, too!
 
Mikel_24 said:
BAD IDEA. Anything you get is going to get scratched and the edge ruined. We use sandpaper to SHARPEN knives... so no steel is going to stand a chance against this material. I have done it before, but with a beater knife or utility (disposable) knife. Not with a $200 blade!
Click to expand...

That's why i use old Opinels for this. Just a few swipes on a stone brings the edge right back.

As for hte problem of too much flex, teh #10 is pretty stiff. If more stiffness is needed, just hack the blade short... much shorter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top