Wanna Help Design The Busse "Woodcraft" Knife????

I would still love to see a Busse Minimuk, but I am very happy with my BATAC for almost everything. The only thing I see that would be better in my estimation is the BA III.
 
What exactly is the common definition of a woodcraft/bushcraft knife? It seems these suggestions are/were all over the place.
 
adrock1978 said:
What exactly is the common definition of a woodcraft/bushcraft knife? It seems these suggestions are/were all over the place.
Click to expand...

When I think of bushcraft, I think of the Boss Street. The size, weight, thickness. Good all round knife. Won't be a chopper but you can set up a shelter with it, and make kindling and baton smaller pieces if needed.
 
It just seems like its too broad of a definition to demand such a specific design. I can do most if not all of that with my Skinny ASH. How does it differ what what you would want out of any mid-sized to smaller knife.
 
I'd say the closest is the RMD. To make it more woodcraft, remove the choil. Thinner and slightly shorter blade. full convex grind or full flat grind. satin finish. maybe taper the rear of the handle a little more?

ADD: Thin, maybe just 1/8" thick, 3/16 max
 
Last edited:
The length is the most important consideration in something like this, and it's really hard to come up with a consensus. Personally, I think that chopping should take a back seat to batonning in this circumstance, and the max length should probably be in the 6" range so as to comfortably be able to baton thru a 5-5.5" log for shelter purposes. If one were to carry an additional pocket knife for the finer detail work, a 6-6.25" length knife would be perfect for all around use.
On the short end of the spectrum, I wouldn't want to have to rely on anything shorter than 4" for all around use, and even then, it puts a severe limitation on batonning.

As for thickness, I would want something around 3/16's. Not too thick, not too thin, and able to take a wee bit of abuse. I'd also want the width to be around 1.25" so as not to be too heavy to lug around all day. Oh, and gimme a drop point, zero grind full convex edge. Done. I'll take 10 in a satin finish! :)
 
Personally, when I think woodcraft, I differentiate it from survival completely. You are prepared, and thus, you are probably going to have an axe for the larger duties. I would say a blade no longer than 4", and no wider than 1", because you don't need chopping power at all, and batoning is limited. Thickness should be under .15", and the handle should be a full 4 finger grip - around 3.75"-4". No belly in the grip. Probably a scandi grind. Drop point would be my preference. As for the guard, no more than the usual talon hole is necessary. Some texture for the thumb is nice, like on the SAR3. Rounded exposed butt for seperating plant fibres. No recurve in the blade at all, because it's just too hard to sharpen in the field. DCBB finish. Lots of options for the scales, both micarta and G10. Either are great in terms of durability, it's just nice to have the choice.
 
Blade length 4" and realitively thin, around 1/8" thick. Blade width around 1.5" with no guard and micarta slabs. Definitely must have a scandi grind, something similar in the shape and design of a mora knife.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top