mymindisamob
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- Feb 1, 2005
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I still think this is the best design ever. Stabs, slices, batons, it's as close to perfect as I have found.
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Wanna Help Design The Busse "Woodcraft" Knife????
- Thread starter Jerry Busse
- Start date
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newbie question... what purpose does the "hump" on the spine serve ?
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- Aug 10, 2006
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- 7,250
It makes it look like a Nessmuk. I think that's the main thing. As for a functional purpose for that hump, it may help in skinning. With that much belly, you can slide the knife in between the meat and the hide and twist, using the hump and spine of the knife to separate tricky sections.
The hump also adds a degree of blade-forward weight bias, perhaps adding an extra bit of chopping power- (of questionable usefulness in such a small blade.) It may have more to do with balance than anything else, now that I think about it.
My theory about the hump is that it began as a natural result of the forging process, where the tip of the blade was hammered down to the edge and point- squishing the extra material from the bar up into a hump. This then became a blade style, once functional advantages of this organically-arrived at design were recognized.
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BRING BACK THE LIL UGLY!!! With a few mods it could be the perfect woods knife.Doing them out of INFI would be the ultimate "take anywhere" woods knife.Piggy back that with a MISTRESS and all duties are covered.Do it with a wider 3/16 blade,round off the spine...a bit larger handle and a retractable saw(had to say it...
)and you won't keep em in stock....
)and you won't keep em in stock....
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- Oct 30, 2005
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- 3,947
mymindisamob
Platinum Member
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Mine is a Dan Koster Nessmuk and is incredible. I have a false edge on the forward spine so it sticks very well. While batoning, the hump give it the forward weight it needs for a smaller knife, and helps prevent striking the tip.
I agree with Moonwilson though, the hump may have come about because of the forging process on the original blades. It has been very functional and helps in keeping your palm further from the edge while push cutting.
I agree with Moonwilson though, the hump may have come about because of the forging process on the original blades. It has been very functional and helps in keeping your palm further from the edge while push cutting.
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- Jun 29, 2005
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- 16,379
I sure hope it doesn't get scrapped. Lets keep our fingers crossed.
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2006
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- 16,703
I think -- just think -- that Mr. Busse actually paid attention to this.
Now, given how "Busse Time" works it could be quite awhile before we hear the result.
But I'm feeling pretty confident that we're going to see a Busse Bushcraft knife. And I'll be there!!
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
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- 482
Amen! Very impressive! I'm not a big nessy fan but this could be a nessy lovers wet dream.
mymindisamob
Platinum Member
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Amen! Very impressive! I'm not a big nessy fan but this could be a nessy lovers wet dream.
As much as I loved that Nessy, I ended up trading it for a CG BATAC. Stripped and beaten, it is my go to, outdoor chore knife and pretty much my EDC.:thumbup:
(digging thru old threads tonight)
Bigfattyt
Gold Member
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- Jun 23, 2007
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- 19,253
I still think this is the best design ever. Stabs, slices, batons, it's as close to perfect as I have found.
Love those too. I really want a thin scandi for kitchen food prep, and a monster nessie out of 3v, and a normal sized one a bit thicker out of the same, that should cover my bases.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2008
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- 7
My 2 cents.
9" Overall length
5" Handle
4" Blade
Drop point blade, grind would depend on whether or not INFI does well with a Scandi grind. If it does, Scandi is the easiest to sharpen in the field, and one of the more practical for a non-smash and bash knife.
It would be nice to have lashing points on the guard, handle, and pommel. The spine should be sharply squared off and hardened for the purposes of striking a firesteel or other tasks. It would be nice if the pommel had a sort of solid rod/hammer tip for using the pommel as a hammer/smashing device.
If you look up the Ray Mears Woodlore knife, that's basically the handle shape I would suggest, just in a Busse fashioned Micarta 3D.
9" Overall length
5" Handle
4" Blade
Drop point blade, grind would depend on whether or not INFI does well with a Scandi grind. If it does, Scandi is the easiest to sharpen in the field, and one of the more practical for a non-smash and bash knife.
It would be nice to have lashing points on the guard, handle, and pommel. The spine should be sharply squared off and hardened for the purposes of striking a firesteel or other tasks. It would be nice if the pommel had a sort of solid rod/hammer tip for using the pommel as a hammer/smashing device.
If you look up the Ray Mears Woodlore knife, that's basically the handle shape I would suggest, just in a Busse fashioned Micarta 3D.
