Wanna Help Design The HOG SAR Knife ? ? ? ? . . .

Alright, I have to chime in now. How about something similar to the Skookum Bush Tool. When you guys get worn out making word play on this:D, check it out.
http://www.skookumbushtool.com/
Something like this in INFI seems like a very good all-around tool.:thumbup:
 
Hmm...

4.5 to 5" drop point, sabre ground blade (or better; full convex!), .22 thick.
Make the blade tall enough so the 'front' of the choil extends down far enough
to be a finger guard. Loose the 'back' of the choil (perhaps a small finger ridge),
instead blend it back into a simple handle, with a flat butt :eek: ...
Throw on some canvas mikarta magnum(!) slabs and we're gettin' close :D !!

Gotta to go with the Scotch-in-the-Sheath-Pouch thingy...
But will probably make my own (sheath, that is).

p/s

Keep in mind that Skamania County, WA is the ONLY place were BigFoot is protected by law.
 
4.5 - 5", thumb ramp with grooves, canvas micarta, more of an oval shaped pommel, finger size choil, .20", full height grind, drop point, shaped handle ala AD or GW, rear talon hole.

Serrations?
Knife height?
 
Parachute with alt-switch??? That's great. Get a pile of guys bailing out to save someone and before they can reach the ground we have a Busse "Death From Above" going on to the rescueees. PASS! LOL

Does it need a flat-based butt end to whack/hammer stuff with? Maybe a slightly-rounded flat butt? (I'm askin - I'm a chair-commando.)

EDIT - looks like someone already mentioned the squared butt. I must be a genius! ;)
 
I think the 'pumpkin' orange G10 is a no-brainer handle material for a SAR knife; maybe G-rex it with a bright yellow bolster. Also the straight, possibly serrated spine and drop point.
 
Maybe it should fold?:)

But seriously- the way skunk described- Canvas micarta, flat spine and moderate blade length- that has my vote
 
How to make the PERFECT BUSSE SAR knife:​

Step 1: Make run of CG SFNO, competition finish of course

Step 2: Put one in my hands

Step 3: Tell me to go find someone, or to just go get lost:D

Thanks, Jerry! It sounds great!!:thumbup:
 
If this is a knife for wilderness SAR missions, I'm thinking it should be able to do the following things well:

1. Cut branches up to ~2" diameter for shelter/fire/litter construction. (yeah, any SAR team will likely have actual litters, but it doesn't help to have the capacity to improvise, and shelter/fire is still a good idea if you have to hunker down).

1a. Should be able to split wood reasonably well, for fire-making in wet conditions.

2. Function as an impromptu pry-bar - best reason to carry a big knife, rather than a folder/saw/prybar combo.

3. Ability to cut line and webbing - i.e. small serrated region. As much as I dislike combo blades, this would seem critical.

4. Might see occasional use as a digger/shovel. Not super likely, but it could happen, and a knife is a likely piece of gear to press into service if you're not carrying a shovel.

5. Should be light weight and easy to carry.

I'm thinking an NO-E or Satin-Jack Tac fits the bill nicely. If the mission were in a less wooded area, something smaller would be good, probably a Mean Street or Badger. A "Rescue Street" would be intriguing - general Mean Street dimensions with a rounded tip and serrations, similar to the "Rescue Stryker" by Benchmade.

IMO, most Busses make excellent field blades, so there's not a whole lot of need for a speciallized SAR blade. People can pick one from the lineup that fits their needs.
 
I think it should look something like a 16'' bladed Bolo at .200-.220'' thick or look something like.......say the BBSHSH 10'' proto :D either of those would be pretty SAR to me.
 
pbubsy said:
I think it should look something like a 16'' bladed Bolo at .200-.220'' thick or look something like.......say the BBSHSH 10'' proto :D either of those would be pretty SAR to me.
Click to expand...



Right, the 10" BBSHSH with a sawback and a bottle opener! :eek:
 
Seven inch blade. Drop point with about 2 inches of sharp serrated swedge for sawing through rope. Pommel has lanyard hole and one flat plane for pounding. Flat spine for batoning. No recurve or extremely slight recurve to facilitate field sharpening. Canvas micarta or heavily grooved G-10 for gripping. Sheath should accomadate a stone or ceramic rod.
 
Landar15 said:
How to make the PERFECT BUSSE SAR knife:​

Step 1: Make run of CG SFNO, competition finish of course

Step 2: Put one in my hands

Step 3: Tell me to go find someone, or to just go get lost:D

Thanks, Jerry! It sounds great!!:thumbup:
Click to expand...
This approach I like... I wonder if it would work. Boss?

:p
 
Lots of great ideas on here, I'll plagarize the ones I like and add my own.

Tali-Whacker or PD shape! YES, good start. Nice straight edges for clean cutting. Good strong tip shape that can get in tight spots to dig or pry.

Some serrations, somewhere. I don't know where would be best. But I do know first hand, for sure, that if you need to cut wet line in a hurry nothing beats serrations, not even a razor blade. A line cutter portion that could double as a gut hook may be more useful than serrations. Offset filing on the spine for notching wood is nice for trap making and shelter building as well.

Flat spine portion for batoning.

A useful pommel shape for pounding things, not a sharp crusher shape, more of a blunt hammer. I know it's not a Busse design, but a hollow handle for storing survival items really is nice (fire starter, fishing line, shot of JWB- what ever!).

If you wanted to get really weird with the G-10 or Micarta you could design a survival whistle into the cuts for signaling... Just thinking out loud.

4.5-5.5 inch blade, 3/8" to 1/4" inch max OAL 11".

Can't wait to see what comes out of this. I hope we get to see proto photos as it develops!
 
idahoskunk said:
say "SARsquatch" three times as fast as you can and it starts sounding like "SARscotch" :thumbup:

4.5 t 4.75 inch blade, straight edge and flat spine, 3/16, canvas micarta for gripping, rounded pommel for pounding but still needs the rear talon hole, maybe a thumb ramp or thumb serrations.
Click to expand...


The perfect starting point.... the Anorexic Badger Attack with a gut hook
 
6 inch blade, penetrator tip with a butt spike. Maybe some serrations to allow easier cutting of strapping, windscreens or other materials. A beefy blade about .32 should do, would allow greater prying, battoning and chisel use.
 
randucci said:
Right, the 10" BBSHSH with a sawback and a bottle opener! :eek:
Click to expand...

You forgot something TIMDUCCI!!! The hollow survival handle filled with survival liquid :thumbup: or just a flask pouch on the front of the sheath...Randall style....who needs a stone, especially with a Busse....but a flask however....:thumbup::)
 
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