Wanna Help Design The HOG SAR Knife ? ? ? ? . . .

Heres my input Jerry, from a heliops point of view.

1. 5" blade, 3/16", stout 'spey' tip, false swedge.
2. Semi Mag G-10 handles (your new toxic green G10 :foot:) for weight reduction and to fill flight gloves for secure grip.
3. Straight edge and hollow ground! Yes, there, I said it!
4. Thumb grooves at top (large'ish) to aid grip on the glove thumb pad. Too small and they do nothing.
5. Sheath, nylon with large pouch or ability to take a pouch so as to house a surefire G2 and be able to use it whilst on leg for reading maps etc. Similar to maxpedition type with hole in bottom.

You sure you dont want a photoshop, cos I have a beauty!!!!!!!!! :cool:

SAR - Survival and Rescue
 
A badger III sized blade (4 1/4 to 5 inches long, 3/16s of an inch, 1/4 at the most thick), drop point (spear point would be acceptable, clip point would not be good for this one), small choil, rounded pommel for pounding, small/ low serrated thumb ramp (for double duty as a magnesium fire starter striker), canvas micarta slabs.:)
 
Ok--this sounds awesome!

First of all--PLEASE NO SERRATIONS! If I need them, I'll use a spyderco or something.

Squared off pommel for pounding.

Stout tip for prying and batoning. If there is a bit of swedge or something, that does not bother me too much, but it still needs to be not too much of a hinderance to batoning.

Full convex sounds good to me.

If it is 6 in plus, .25 thick, under 6, .22.

Finger guard/ choil area.

Not sure what direction on size you are going...chopping, clearing brush and limbing are all tasks that pop up for us...

I'll try to add more when I have more time.

Thanks--this sounds great! Eugene would be definate bonus.
 
River-8 said:
Hmm...

4.5 to 5" drop point, sabre ground blade (or better; full convex!), .22 thick.
Make the blade tall enough so the 'front' of the choil extends down far enough
to be a finger guard. Loose the 'back' of the choil (perhaps a small finger ridge),
instead blend it back into a simple handle, with a flat butt :eek: ...
Throw on some canvas mikarta magnum(!) slabs and we're gettin' close :D !!

Gotta to go with the Scotch-in-the-Sheath-Pouch thingy...
But will probably make my own (sheath, that is).

p/s

Keep in mind that Skamania County, WA is the ONLY place were BigFoot is protected by law.
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BruceWayne said:
Ok--this sounds awesome!

First of all--PLEASE NO SERRATIONS! If I need them, I'll use a spyderco or something.

Squared off pommel for pounding.

Stout tip for prying and batoning. If there is a bit of swedge or something, that does not bother me too much, but it still needs to be not too much of a hinderance to batoning.

Full convex sounds good to me.

If it is 6 in plus, .25 thick, under 6, .22.

Finger guard/ choil area.

Not sure what direction on size you are going...chopping, clearing brush and limbing are all tasks that pop up for us...

I'll try to add more when I have more time.

Thanks--this sounds great! Eugene would be definate bonus.
Click to expand...

I had better leave this one up to the guys that know what a SAR knife needs:foot: :o

What I search for on weekends, I 'm not looking to rescue.

.
 
River-8 said:
Yup; improvising does happen.

Vary your sources, practice your methods.
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Thanks for the real-world example.

I think one of the strongest arguments for carrying a Busse-type knife in your SAR gear is that it can be pressed into abusive or non-knife tasks if necessary - prying, digging, etc. No, I don't usually deploy my knives as shovels, but I sure would if it helped me get a patient out of harm's way faster. Ditto for prying, scraping, whatever. The Busse is tough enough to take it. If I destroy a knife but walk out of the woods with a live person, that's a pretty good trade.

That's also why I'd favor serrations. Despite my general dislike, if you need to cut line to build an anchor or release someone from a tangle, they get the job done faster.
 
Tony G said:
I had better leave this one up to the guys that know what a SAR knife needs:foot: :o
What I search for on weekends, I 'm not looking to rescue..
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i agree with tony (i hate to say that), i think sar doesn't mean build a log cabin, it means go in, get your prey and get home to drink. maybe something along the lines of a extended baIII with thumb ramp, straight edge and straight spine, or a rat M-6, move the ramp forward and downsize the choil. straight spine and pointy tip for more intricate tip control and pry/poky stuff (digging out corks or bullets).
3/16th max thickness or .200, full convex for strength and sharpness.
more scotch or whiskey for me cause i'm dry.
come on... lets here it from the sarhogs

PS: we all know the SAR's carry hot buttered rum and chainsaws in their snowcats.


Baldface-Snowcat.jpg



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Hog Feet said:
A badger III sized blade (4 1/4 to 5 inches long, 3/16s of an inch, 1/4 at the most thick), drop point (spear point would be acceptable, clip point would not be good for this one), small choil, rounded pommel for pounding, small/ low serrated thumb ramp (for double duty as a magnesium fire starter striker), canvas micarta slabs.:)
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I like this one but with serrations added!:thumbup:
 
Satin Jack Tac drop point blade (6") and the EU handle. Yellow or Orange G-10 options and a Satin Finish. Natural and Green Micarta would be cool too.
 
1/4 thick
6 in blade
swedge for penitration
and how about res-c for this one, it doesnt conduct heat or electricity
and what would a downed aircraft be full of, heat and electricity :D
 
Boss can I link this to the Wildnerness/Survival section? There's a few SAR guys there as well.

Personally(pending on what you are designing it for) for a smaller knife I like a 4-5 inch blade, micarta handels, thumb ramp, drop point, finger choil, lanyard hole in blade with a flat pommel to pound with. A full convex blade for me, but thats me. Much of what I said has been said by others who have similar ideas.

For a larger knife I like a 7 inch blade with much of whats above.
 
4-4.5 inch blade, drop point, no recurve, no serrations, skeleton handle with cord wrap, cutouts in the tang (bottle opener, hex wrenches, etc.), rounded pommel for pounding, lanyard hole....
 
I’m going to borrow/agree with several suggestions already made.

Sabre ground blade 7-8” long and .25 thick. I’m not sure what the proper term for the tip/end of the blade is but something like a BATAC or FSH that sweeps up. Chopping duties envisioned. No recurves.

Flat spine for battoning.

Thumb ramp with texturing for better grip in wet conditions.

Make the blade tall enough so the 'front' of the choil extends down far enough
to be a finger guard. (River 8)

Flat pommel but keep the rear talon/lanyard hole.

I like the idea of a serrated section for cutting rope. Not sure how to incorporate it.

Semi-mag scales. Yellow like the SAR Warden or a Yellow and black version of the pumpkin scales would look cool.

Smaller handle for use while wearing gloves. Speaking for myself the TAC handles are too tall for my smaller hands. The EDC handle fits great and the Fusions are not bad either. No palm swell on the top of the handle.
 
I have been trying to get a ST Ripper(which i think would make a decent sar knife) as I thought it might fit into my pack as though I am not a big fan of serrations, they do come in handy for rope and denim.
 
Hey Boss, how about a "Off-SFNO", a 3/8" thick hollow ground SFNO with a few serrations. Then have Thourot polish then so they can be used as mirrors for rescue!

Something loud like Tony G or Cobalt, but tough, like Amy!

It will have magnum handles, which are pink like Garth's loin cloth so it could be seen from a long distance.

Something you could bury into a tree and lash your Hummer to, to pull it up the mountain!


:eek:
 
5.5-6" Blade, 3/16" thick, drop point or spear point, canvas micarta handle, thumb groves on back of blade. I think a fairly straight handle like the mud razor would be good for different handle positions. Flat groung or very high saber grind and a very sharp edge.
 
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